Getting ThereHike the North Fork trail towardds Iceberg. We bivied in the canyon before the final hill up to Iceberg. We obtained water from the waterfall. Bivying near the base of Keeler would require melting snow.
Route DescriptionSee topo for details. We fixed a rope up the initial snow ramp the day before; this was helpful.
P1: Start just to the right of the Day/Keeler coulouir. Climbup 5.7 cracks and then through a 5.9 bulge to belay at the base of the chimney. (150')
P2: Climb the chimney (5.10b) through a roof to a stance. (100')
Note: can link P1 & P2 with 50 feet of simul-climbing.
P3: 10b double cracks
P4: 10c OW. For the most part you can avoid any wide crack climbing until the last 15 feet.
This puts you on a nice ledge.
P5 - P6: move to the right side of the crest, and then up several hundred feet of simul climbing to the base of the Red Dihedral.
P7: Red Dihedral (5.10a). Belay at either the big ledge, or simul 30 feet up to the base of the offwidth.
P8: 5.10c crux OW / squeeze chimney. Not too bad, would be 5.9 in the Valley. Lots of features to use.
P9: 5.10a cracks (#4 Camalot useful for one section).
P10_a: We went way left around the corner, and then back right again (bad drag). You could do a more direct line up the wide crack (not pretty) or up hand cracks to the right ? (although SuperTopo says NO!)
P10_b: Up and right over the crest. Don't go too high. Belay at a big ledge beneath the headwall (Note: supertopo shows P10_a & P10_b as one pitch, but the drag would be really bad. It looks like you could go straight up from the P10_a belay.)
P11: This is where things started to get tricky. You can either climb the sweet looking 5.10 splitter up the headwall. However, if you were like us, the headwall is now in the shade and FREEZING COLD. So we went around to the right via 2 pitches of circuitous 5.7 climbing. Difficult to describe, just follow your nose.
P12-P13: One atop the 5.10 headwall crack, follow the right side of the ridge to the summit. There was one tricky boulder problem off a ledge (5.10), and you will pass by a plaque right before the top. Sorry can't be more helpful here, it was confusing and we were just following our mountain sense.
Essential Gear1 set nuts
1 set TCU
2x set Camalots to #3
#3.5, #4 camalot