Hatun Ulocc

Hatun Ulocc or Ishinca Tower

Ishinca Tower is beutiful granit tower. The best for rock climbing in Quebrada Ishinca and probably around Huaraz

Getting there

Easy to get there from Huaraz- catch any taxi to Paspha or Collun it will be about one hour drive-then while you are in village take a 2-3 hours walk to Quebrada Ishinca. You can always take a donkeys (burros in spanish) to make your approach easy (just remember people who are living there mostly know the Ishinca as a snowy peak in this valley- Hatun Ulocc is different rock tower on the left side in beginning of the valley- don,t go further than
The gate of Huascaran National Park- it,s there)

Routes

As I know there are only two routes at the momment.
1. Karma de los Condores V 5.11+ 350m 9 pitches
and extension of this route called
Karma de los Condores direct 5.11+ R it,s going to the top of Hatun Ulocc with five added pitches
-for the beginning of this route there are two separate pitches on the left side from Karma de los Condores -both are graded for 6c+ and going through
nice corners- I don,t know the name it,s looks like project
GEAR
Remember for climbing Karma de los Condores you need double set of rack up to 4 extra fingers and 4,5 if you have it
ATTENTION Peligro Danger
Leave one rope fixed on the pitch 6 through the big roofs this pitch overhang about 10 m and you must leave a rope fixed to the belay below to get back into the wall pitches and descend down


2.Compania Vertical 7b 200m which is going on the east face of Hatun Ulocc
starting together with Karma de los Condores for the first three pitches and on the big trees ledge traversing to the east side of the tower.

there are more info
http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/americans_complete_astroman_of_peru/

When to climb

Climbing Season: (May) - June - July - August - (September)

The Casa de los Guias situated near the Plaza de Armas in Huaraz is THE spot where to gather information . You will also find a posting board to place adds to find climbing partners and/or equipement for rent or sale.

Camping-campamento

There is nice place to camping close to the river but if you wanna stay there you must to pay fee for entry Huascaran National Park (you don,t need to pay if you have one from previous visit HNP-because you can bay one ticket for 30 days) but as long as you don,t cross the gate of Huscaran Natinal Park you don,t need pay fee. So you can camping in the base of the wall which is ok if you staying there for a while- because there is no water or just before entry to the park.

Images

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