Second Pitch - 140’- 5.10a/ Known as the “roof” pitch, the 2nd pitch is the only site of fixed pro on the Headache. One bolt exists quite a ways below the roof. I cannot quite figure out its purpose as you have quite a few opportunities to protect from that point until the roof itself, including protecting right under the roof with a long sling which would be the norm. The pitch starts out tame enough, not near as difficult as the pure crack climbing up pitch one. Move into the corner under the roof and mix cracks with facial features for a pleasant ride until you are directly under the roof. Place a larger cam, #3 as I recall, and proceed to turn the roof to the right. That move is not as difficult as the climbing right above (photo above) it for another 40' or so until you reach the anchor on a short ledge. This ground pretty much moves you back into crack climbing. Make sure to use a longer runner on the roof protection.
The Headache, II, 5.10a, Zion National Park, June, 2007
