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Hexensattel - South ridge (Normal)
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Hexensattel - South ridge (Normal)

 
Hexensattel - South ridge (Normal)

Page Type: Route

Location: Tirol, Austria, Europe

Lat/Lon: 47.01732°N / 10.46844°E

Object Title: Hexensattel - South ridge (Normal)

Route Type: Hiking

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Time Required: One to two days

Difficulty: T4- (UIAA I)

Grade: I

Route Quality: 
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Page By: Lodewijk

Created/Edited: Oct 2, 2016 / Oct 2, 2016

Object ID: 984221

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Page Score: 80.49%  - 12 Votes 

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Overview

Hexenkopf South Ridge & Samnaun Group
Hexenkopf Summit view

Climbing Hexenkopf is not for the impatient. Whether coming from Serfaus or See im Paznauntal, all approach routes are long. Climbing Hexenkopf requires a long day of hiking but of course there is also the possibility to spend a night in the Hexenseehütte. The Hexenseehütte is the base for climbing Hexenkopf and can be reached from the Serfaus or See im Paznauntal.

The route from the Hexenseehütte over the Hexensattel and south ridge to the summit of Hexenkopf is regarded as the normal route on the mountain. The route along the east ridge is slightly more difficult and therefore not the main or normal route. The hexensattel- south ridge route (from now on Normal Route) is graded T4-. This means the route can be considered a ''difficult mountain hike'' with some parts of scrambling in the first grade (UIAA I). However, these difficulties are limited to the upper parts of the route and to be more precise: the last 100 meters before reaching the summit. Apart from this, the south ridge is mostly graded T3 and belwo the Hexensattel T3 and T2. Route finding isn't an issue on the normal route. The painted red-white-red markers are abundant and therefore always in sight, making it easy to find your way up and downs the mountain.

Hexensee late in the Afternoon
Hexensee and the lower part of the trail

Gmaiersee and Ochsenkopf
Gmaiersee and a route  marker on the S-ridge


I Approach Route: Serfaus

Hexenkopf Normal Route Map

The base for Climbing Hexenkopf along the normal route is the Hexenseehütte. This section describes how to get to the Hut from ether Serfaus (Inntal) or See (Paznauntal).

Take the cableway system from Serfaus up to the Komperdell and continue all the way up to Lazid (2346m). Start your hike in a Southern direction. Follow the broad ‘’Kamm’’ in the direction of the Scheid saddlepoint (2429m). Scheid can be reckognized by the top station of a chairlift carrying the same name: Scheid.  At the Scheid there are 2 trails/paths, both of them leading towards the Arrezjoch (2587m). Follow the hiking trail or the broad path to the Arrezjoch. The hiking trail is more scenic though. The broad path is more or less a dirt road used by cars and other vehicles to get to all the ski facilities of the Serfaus-Fiss-Ladis ski resort. Not the prettiest sight to say the least. I would advise to take the hiking trail. After about an hour of hiking you will reach the Arrezjoch. The Arrezjoch offers the first views of Hexenkopf and at this point you can try to imagine the shape of a witch’s head in the summit pyramid. Also you can spot the Hexenseehütte in front. Follow the trail to the Hexenseehütte (Yellow signpost at the Arrezjoch; trail 26A).

II Approach Route: See

Alternatively, coming from See in Paznauntal, take trail 713 up all the way to the Masnerjoch at 2685 meters. From the saddle, follow route 713 and eventually route 26 to the Hexenseehütte.

Route Description

Hexenkopf Route MAP

From the Hexenseehütte head towards the west along trail 713. This trail goes over easy terrain to the Hexensattel (2715m), marked by a yellow signpost. If you look down this saddlepoint you can see the beautiful Gmaiersee, a small mountain lake. At the Hexensattel the real climb begins. Follow the yellow signpost which says ‘’Hexenkopf’’ towards the north, you are now entering the south ridge of the mountain. The trail is well marked and therefore route finding is unproblematic. he route starts to steepen a little at this point (T3). Keep following the marked trail along the south ridge. Eventually you can spot the summit cross of Hexenkopf. This is also the point the crux of the route begins: The final 100 meters involve some light scrambling (UIAA I). The rock is solid though and the climbing is not too exposed. After covering these last 100 vertical meters you will find yourself on the summit of Herenkopf at 3035 meters. Descent is the same way back , but it is also a possibility to traverse Hexenkopf by using the east ridge route down the mountain. This route is more difficult though. It also involves Climbing in the first grade (UIAA I), but the climbing part is longer and more exposed in comparison with the normal route.

Hiking Times

Route Section
Time required
Lazid - Scheid
20 to 30 minutes
Scheid - Arrezjoch
1 to 1,5 hours
Arrezjoch - Hexenseehütte
45 minutes to 1 hour
Hexenseehütte - Hexensattel
30 minutes
Hexensattel - Hexenkopf
 1 hour 15 min

The times mentioned above are averages. My experience is that the hiking times on the singposts in Austria are ''slower'' compared to the ones in Switzerland. In Switzerland I am usually a bit faster compared to the signpost times, but in Austria I ocasionally use only half of the time mentioned on the signposts. The return time from Hexenkopf back to Lazid is about 3 hours. Make sure to check the lift operating times in order to use the Lazidbahn back to Serfaus. Otherwise it will cost you another 2 to 2,5 hours to get down.  

Route Photos

Furgler and Hexensee Hut
1. The trail just above the Hexensee Hut

The path to Hexensattel
2. The path to Hexensattel

Hexensattel (2715m)
3. Hexensattel (2715m)

Hexensattel Signpost (2710m)
4. Hexensattel Signpost (2710m)

Curious visitors along the route at Sunrise
5. Entering the South Ridge

Sunrise along the Route
6. Sunrise; first part of the S-ridge

Hexensee from South Ridge
7. Hexensee from halfway up the South Ridge

On the South Ridge
8. Start of the steeper part (T3)

 
Gmaiersee Alpenglow
9. Gmaiersee Alpenglow from S-ridge
 
The Upper south ridge
10. The Upper south ridge
 
Hexenkopf (3035m, S-Face)
11. The summit from the S-ridge
 
The Crux
12. The Crux below the summit
 
Hexenkopf Summit view
13. Summit view West
 
Hexensee from the Summit
14. Summit view East

When to Climb

Hexenkopf can be climbed best during the summer months (june / September) when there is no snow present on the mountain.

Essential Gear

When climbing Hexenkopf good hiking shoes are a must. Also take warm clothing since it can be cold at 3000+ meters. Climbing equipment like a rope etc are not neccessary for climbing this route. Poles can be useful.

External Links

Summit Cross
Summit Cross
Serfaus-Fiss-Ladis cableway system: Operating Times and Prices

Hexenkopf  Webcam

Bergfex  Weather Serfaus

Accomodation  in Serfaus

Interactive Map  with the route to Hexenkopf

Also see the main page of Hexenkopf for information about -Maps & Books, -How to get to Serfaus or See,  -the Hexenseehütte

Weather

Images

Gmaiersee AlpenglowGmaiersee and OchsenkopfHexenkopf South Ridge & Samnaun GroupHexensee late in the AfternoonCurious visitors along the route at SunriseHexenkopf Early morning Summit viewHexenkopf Summit view
Hexensattel Signpost (2710m)Hexenkopf (3035m, E-Face)Hexensattel (2715m)Hexenkopf Normal Route MapHexensee from South RidgeHexenkopf (3035m, S-Face)The path to Hexensattel
[ View Gallery - 8 More Images ]