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Hidden Gully
Route

Hidden Gully

 
Hidden Gully

Page Type: Route

Location: Snowdonia, Wales, Europe

Lat/Lon: 53.10239°N / 4.02358°W

Object Title: Hidden Gully

Route Type: Ice Climbing, Mixed

Season: Winter

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: Scottish Grade II

Number of Pitches: 2

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: Nanuls

Created/Edited: Jan 6, 2010 / Apr 15, 2011

Object ID: 587326

Hits: 3198 

Page Score: 84.21%  - 18 Votes 

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Overview


If one makes the effort to pull themselves away from Cwm Idwal and its famous winter test pieces and up into the less accessible hanging valley of Cwm Cenifion, one will find themselves in the midst of a satisfying array of quality winter routes. Hidden Gully, a 100 metre Grade II, is one of the Cwm’s finest and despite its name, isn’t all that hard to find. It can be found on the far right hand side of the Cwm tucked away just behind the obvious mass of crags known as Clogwyn Ddu (Black Crag), a name which is wholly inappropriate in the sort of weather conditions that make Hidden Gully a very worthwhile outing. Narrow and steep, it exudes atmosphere, and when combined with East Wall Gully, it becomes part of an extremely rewarding direct route from the shores of Llyn Idwal all the way to the summit of Glyder Fawr itself.

Traditionally there has been no culture of claiming the first ascents of winter routes in Snowdonia, so unfortunately the identities of the first ascentionists of this route are unknown.

Getting There

Hidden Gully
The entrance to
the Gully
(Photo by Nanuls)
Hidden Gully
Near the start
of the route
(Photo by Nanuls)
Hidden Gully
Approaching the
crux
(Photo by Nanuls)
Hidden Gully
Nearly topping
out
(Photo by Nanuls)

Hidden Gully

Conveniently, Glyder Fawr is located very close to the A5 meaning that there isn't a long approach to the bottom of the route.

There is plenty of parking along the A5 near Ogwen Cottage (SH 648 603), some of which you have to pay for, some of which you don't. My advice is to never bother with the official car parks and just park along the roadside. There is a wide 'pavement' type verge on the southern side of the road that can easily accommodate the width of a car or minibus, and is completely free and never full (even on bank holidays). It also allows you to park even closer to the base of the mountain and the start of the path.

Take the path from the Cottage to Llyn Idwal (SH 645 595). Follow the path along the eastern shore southwards. From here you will have a choice of approaches, either traverse in from the left, passing under the Sub-Ceifion Rib (SH 648 592), or better still, climb East Wall Gully, which will take you directly into the Cwm. Providing the weather is clear, Clogwyn Ddu should bow be an obvious feature on the right hand side of the cwm. Make your own way the base of the crag and skirt around it to access the Gully, which is located around SH 646 581 (see photo )

Route Description

Start by ascending the obvious snowy depression that gives Easy Route (Grade I) in the back corner of the Cwm. A steep narrow gully can be spotted bearing off to the right, just to the right of Clogwyn Ddu. This is your objective.

Pitch 1 (Tech. Grade 1; 50m): From a short way up Easy Route move off diagonally right to the narrow gully.

Pitch 2 (Tech. Grade 2; 50m): Follow the narrow gully to its steep and often corniced exit. A couple of chockstones will likely cause the greatest difficulty.

Essential Gear

If conditions are favourable most will not feel the need to use anything more than a single axe and crampons, however, if conditions are a bit more on the icy side, ice tools, a singe rope and a small rack would be very helpful. This being a gully climb, a helmet is also a very good idea.

Cwm Cneifion (Photo by Nanuls)

Maps

Open Space Web-Map builder Code
Navigation Maps

OS 1:25k Explorer Series OL 17 Snowdon/Yr Wyddfa

OS 1:50k Landranger Series 115 Snowdon/Yr Wyddfa

Harvey Map Services 1:25k Snowdonia: Snowdonia The Glyderau and the Carneddau

Harvey Map Services/BMC 1: 40k British Mountain Map: Snowdonia

Road Maps

OS Road Map 9 Wales/Cymru & West Midlands

Guidebooks

Snowdonia (Official National Park Guide) Snowdonia (Official National Park Guide) by Merfyn Williams with contributions from Ian Mercer and Jeremy Moore

A handy book full of useful information and interesting facts about the National Park.
Welsh Winter Climbs Cicerone Guide: Welsh Winter Climbs by Malcom Campbell and Andy Newton

The only dedicated winter climbing guide to Wales. A bit dated now but nevertheless still relevant. The only problem is finding the right conditions.
Welsh Winter Climbs Wetpaint Guide: Welsh Winter Climbs - Cwm Cneifion and Clogwyn Du PDF

Not a guidebook in the traditional sense; the contributors to the Welsh Winter Climbs ‘Wiki’ recognise that the Cicerone guide is unlikely to be updated anytime soon, and that in the interim period, something needs to cover the developments that have taken place since its publication. Plus it’s free!

External Links

 
Cwm Ceifion
The approach through Cwm Cneifion (Photo by Nanuls)
 
Hidden Gully
Nearing the top (Photo by Nanuls)
 
Hidden Gully
A handy anchor (Photo by Nanuls)

Government Bodies and Official Organisations

Snowdonia National Park Authority
Council for National Parks
Association of National Park Authorities
Conwy County Council
Gwynedd County Council
Powys County Council
Countryside Council for Wales
Forestry Commission Wales
Environment Agency
CADW
Royal Commission on Ancient & Historical Monuments in Wales
Gwynedd Archaeological Trust
Snowdonia Society
The National Trust

Hiking, Climbing and Mountaineering Organisations and Companies

British Mountaineering Council
The Climbers Club
UKClimbing
Plas y Brenin National Mountain Centre
Snowdonia-Active.com
Hightreck Snowdonia

Weather

Mountain Weather Wales
Weather from the Met Office
BBC Weather
Weather Channel UK

Tourist Information

Visit Wales
North Wales Tourism Partnership
Local Information from Gwynedd.com
Local Information from Snowdonia Wales Net
North Wales Index

Travel

Welsh Public Transport Information
Uk Train Timetable

Accommodation

Youth Hostel Association in Wales
North Wales Campsites
Idwal Cottage
Pyn y Pass YHA
Capel Curig YHA
Plas y Brenin National Mountain Centre
Gwern Gof Uchaf Campsite
Gwern Gôf Isaf Campsite and bunkhouse
Garth Farm Campsite
Dolgam Campsite and B&B Capel Curig


Maps and Guidebooks

Ordnance Survey
Harvey Map Services
Cicerone Guidebooks
Climbers Club Guidebooks
North Wales Bouldering
Mid Wales Climbing
Cordee Travel and Adventure Sports Bookshop

Wildlife and Conservation

Joint Nature Conservation Committee
Natur Gwynedd
North Wales Wildlife Trust
Royal Society for the Protection of Birds

Welsh Language

Welsh Language Board
Cymdeithas yr Iaith Gymraeg Welsh language pressure group
Cymuned Welsh language pressure group
Yr Urdd (Welsh Youth Association)
Welsh-English / English-Welsh online translator
Welsh-English / English-Welsh Online Dictionary
Welsh-English / English-Welsh Online Lexicon

Images

Hidden GullyHidden GullyHidden GullyCwm CeifionHidden GullyHidden GullyHidden Gully
Hidden GullyCwm CneifionClogwyn DduHidden GullyHidden Gully