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Hinterer Brochkogel North Ridge

Hinterer Brochkogel North Ridge

Hinterer Brochkogel North Ridge

Page Type: Route

Location: Tyrol / Oetztal Alps, Austria, Europe

Object Title: Hinterer Brochkogel North Ridge

Route Type: Mountaineering

Season: Spring, Summer, Winter

Time Required: Less than two hours

Difficulty: middle - up to 50°

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes


Page By: Sebastian Hamm

Created/Edited: Mar 18, 2007 / Mar 27, 2010

Object ID: 278853

Hits: 3780 

Page Score: 83.69%  - 17 Votes 

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Hinterer Brochkogel North Ridge
North Ridge

The north ridge of Hinterer Brochkogel is one of four ridges to the summit of the third highest peak in the Oetztal Alps and the fifth highest summit of Austria. It is a nice ice/snow climbing ridge up to 50° the whole year round. From the foot of the ridge on the upper Taschach-glacier it is a 200 m climb. The ridge requires 1 hour up. If you want to use a rope you have to schedule 90 minutes. The conditions are normally very good (Maybe one side blank ice and the other side good snow). If the north-west face of Hinterer Brochkogel has too much blank ice in the upper part at the ice nose it is very popular to shift to the north-ridge.

Getting There

Looking up
Looking up the second part
North ridge
North ridge

The trailheads for routes to Hinterer Brochkogel are Mittelberg in the Pitztal and Vent in the Oetztal. At Mittelberg you can choose between the long and the short way. The short way is using the cable-cars of the ski-resort of Pitztal-Glacier to Mittelbergjoch. Or you can hike through the Taschachtal towards Taschachhaus (4h). The other trailhead is Vent in the Oetztal. From here you can hike towards Breslauer Huette (2,5h).

  • From Taschachhaus over Taschachferner to the start of the north ridge (3h)

  • From Mittelbergjoch to the start of the north ridge (60-90min), this is also the common way for ski-ascents to Hinterer Brochkogel and Wildspitze in winter and spring

  • From Breslauer Huette across the Mitterkarjoch towards the start of the north ridge (2,5h)

  • Panorama Skitour
    Wildspitze and Hinterer Brochkogel with North Ridge

    Panorama from ski-depot
    View from Ski-depot

    Route Description

    On the north ridge
    On the ridge
    On the north ridge
    Wildspitze in the background

    The start of the ridge is at a height of approximately 3.400 m. The route starts at the bergschrund. Normally you have no problem to cross the bergschrund. The first part is nice climbing up to 45-50°. The north-west side of the ridge has maybe more ice than the north-east side. Stay at the snowy east side. Climb up to a big rock at the half of the ridge. Climb left around the rock and follow the sharp snow ridge (50°) up to a another big rock. On the sharp ridge stay on the north-west side. Climb right around the last big rock and follow the last snow passage to the summit of Hinterer Brochkogel.

    Descent: The same way back or over the south-east ridge (normal route) to Mitterkarjoch (30min) and back to the start of the north-ridge (15min).

    360° Summit view from Hinterer Brochkogel

    Essential Gear

  • Ice up to 50° requires a rope, ice screws and two ice axes. (If the route is in good conditions you can climb without a rope and only with one ice axe.)

  • External Links


    On the north ridgePanoramic view Wildspitze and Hinterer BrochkogelOn the north ridge360° Summit PanoramaPanorama from ski-depotHinterer Brochkogel North RidgePanorama Skitour
    Looking upOn Hinterer BrochkogelOn the North RidgeNorth ridgeOn the north ridgeOn top of hinterer Brochkogel