Welcome to SP!  -
Historic climbing guides of Frankenjura

Historic climbing guides of Frankenjura

Historic climbing guides of Frankenjura

Page Type: Album

Object Title: Historic climbing guides of Frankenjura

Image Type(s): Rock Climbing


Page By: reinhard2

Created/Edited: Feb 24, 2008 / May 18, 2008

Object ID: 383178

Hits: 2553 

Page Score: 75.81% - 6 Votes 

Vote: Log in to vote



Oskar Bühler
Ossi Bühler 1976

Frankenjura is one of the most important low mountain sport climbing areas, with a long tradition, and setting mark stones for the development of climbing. This album contributes a bit to enlighten this point by documenting the development of the climbing guides of the region.

For about 50 years this has been the work of a Nuremberg climber named Oskar Bühler, who also contributed in an essential way by inventing the cemented Bühler piton, becoming ubiquitous in Frankenjura since the end of the 60ies.

The 1st Bühler guide appeared in 1949, described 893 routes, and followed a still earlier guide of 1931 called "Der Kletterer im Frankenjura" (The climber in F.). Documented here are 5 subsequent editions, which appeared in 1964, 1973, 1979, 1983 and 1991. After that, new guides by other authers (not subject of this album) emerged and began to prevail, in the style of so called topo guides.

Of course, the excerpts given here are in German. However, there is - to my view - sufficent historic weight to the thing to make it here available as a child album attached to the main Frankenjura page.

Enjoy reading and comparing the development stages of the guide!

1964 Bühler guide

1964 guide - cover
1964 guide - preface
1964 guide - intro
1964 guide - on climbing
On climbing
1964 guide - rating

Read here, among other things, about the rapidly grown route number (893 → 1835), the gear recommended in the early 60ies, and the beginning of the cemented-piton era.

1973 Bühler guide

1973 guide - cover
1973 guide - preface
1973 guide - intro
1973 guide - free & artificial climbing
Clean style and artificial difficulties

Read here, among other things, about the comparison with the preceding guide and a differentiation of free and artificial climb rating.

1979 Bühler guide

1979 guide - cover
1979 guide - Preface
Preface & Glossary
1979 guide - rating
New expanded rating scale
1979 - preservation of routes
Preservation of routes
1979 guide - about the Bühler piton
Notes about the Bühler piton

Read here, among other things, about the emergence of the red point movement and the opening of the UIAA-scale to the 7th grade, about the perservation of classical routes and how to set the now most important cemented "Bühler piton". Those planning a trip to Frankenjura from abroad can also learn here how tell strange words like dihedral in German.

1983 Bühler guide

1983 guide - cover
1983 guide - preface
1983 guide - rating scale

Read here, among a few other things, about names important for the new development and about the opening of the UIAA-scale to grade VIII and beyond, based in part on new routes in Frankenjura.

1991 Bühler guide

1991 guide - cover
1991 guide - preface & nature protection
Preface & nature protection

This is the last Bühler guide which appeared.
Read here, among other things, about a retrospective on earlier editions and about the relationship of climbing and nature protection in Frankenjura.



[ Post a Comment ]
Viewing: 1-2 of 2    

BartNice idea!


Voted 10/10

Its fun to see the development of the climbing grades. Very original contribution, well done!

Posted May 8, 2008 5:04 am

reinhard2Re: Nice idea!


Hasn't voted

Thanks, Bart!
It was a pleasure to design it.
Posted May 18, 2008 4:56 pm

Viewing: 1-2 of 2