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History of Brazilian mountaineering - Part II
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History of Brazilian mountaineering - Part II

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History of Brazilian mountaineering - Part II

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Object Title: History of Brazilian mountaineering - Part II

Activities: Hiking, Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing, Ice Climbing, Aid Climbing, Big Wall, Scrambling

 

Page By: PAROFES

Created/Edited: Jan 30, 2012 / Aug 28, 2012

Object ID: 774075

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This article is the second part of the latest events that took place in Brazilian mountaineering from jan 2011 up to date.

To see a little bit more about the beginning of our mountaineering History, please access th first part of this article on here
:
http://www.summitpost.org/history-of-brazilian-mountaineering-southern-mostly/716714

Main Image: Agulhas Negras Peak and its summits, an icon of Brazilian Mountaineering and our fourth highest summit.

Recent facts:

JANUARY 2011

Great loss to us brazilians, Bernardo Collares dies on Fitz Roy

Bernardo Collares dies on Fitz Roy: According to information from some periodic Argentine journals and the list of emails of Rio de Janeiro Mountaineering Federation, of which Bernardo was President, the climber suffered a great fall when he was rappelling down from Fitz Roy, Argentina. According to stories, Bernardo climbed with the Brazilian Kika Bradford, and almost at the end of the climbg the weather changed, compelling the climbers to give up. In accordance with the Argentine press, the route chosen for the climbg was the west face of the mountain, although the route doesn’t have too much ice and rotten rocks, is considered as a difficult route of rapel.

According to the source, while fixing a peace on a crack, it colapsed, making the fall inevitable, despite tied on a the rope.

The Brazilian source said that Kika still managed to talk a little bit with Bernardo, however, he himself asked her to continue down climbing the route untill the base of the mountain, where she could request aid. However, after the delayed descending of the mountain, the weather got worse in the region, disabling the rescue. Kika said Bernardo had signals of strong internal bleeding and some fractures at the waste line. With these data in hands, the available staff for the rescue concluded that it would be impossible to the Brazilian to have survived until that moment (next day). Some strategies to rescue the body were elaborated, however, later on, the family decided to leave him where he was.

Great loss to our country...


Bernardo Collares

Source: http://altamontanha.com/colunas.asp?NewsID=2753

JANUARY 2011

5 x 6000ers in 12 days

Maximo Kaush, half argentine half brazilian, went to the andes and did 5 x 6000ers in just 12 days, including the highest volcano on Earth, Ojos Del Salado (6.899 m). Maximo now stands as one of the most important mountaineers of our country, and America Latina as a whole. Currently he works as a expedition leader for summitclimbs.com.

Mountains summited:

Vicuñas – 6.066 m
Ojos del Salado – 6.899 m
Muerto – 6.519 m
Tres Cruces Central – 6.643 m
Tres Curces Sur – 6.766 m


Maximo and his summits

Source: http://altamontanha.com/colunas.asp?NewsID=2756

FEBRUARY 2011

Brazilians climb Salto Angel, the highest waterfall in the world, previously climbed only 3 times, but never by a south american ONLY team.

The team was formed by some of the best Brazilian rock climbers, that include Waldemar Niclevicz, Sergio Tartari, Jose Hartmann Luiz, Edmilson Padilha, Valdesir Machado and Orlei Júnior. They had faced difficulties and hard times. After all, they started the climb without getting the permission of Caracas. The team passed mainly for overwhelming moments, later that they had said outloud to the press about the climb, they were already in the superior half of the Big Wall, the day was February 9 2011.

The team was apprehensive since they didn’t knew what could happen with them as they got down after all. The luck, however, was with them, and the Venezuelan authorities had accepted with affection the expedition and treated them very well, to the point that the climbing itself became a tourist attraction on the region.

It were 17 days on the wall and the expedition was formed only for Brazilians, something new for the event, therefore until that month and that year, there never was a 100% Latin team in this climb. This expedition was directed by Waldemar Niclevicz that celebrated atop Salto Angel the 10 years anniversary of the successful Brazilian expedition that summited for the first time Trango Tower in Pakistan, one of the extreme climbs carried out by Brazilians until then.


NICE PLACE FOR A SLEEP!

Source: http://altamontanha.com/colunas.asp?NewsID=2792

MARCH 2011

Julio Campanella and Ricardo Baltazar climb successfully Fitz Roy

The two man team from Rio de Janeiro and Rio Grande do Sul, returned from Argentina where they were the main protagonists in Brazilian climbs on the giant granite towers of El Chalten - Patagonia.

The pair stood together through Media Luna Needle by the route known as Rubio y Azul of 400 m 6c (A1), El Mocho, at the Salvaterra route 6c 400 m and also through Fitz Roy by Franco Argentina 6c (A1). Baltazar (aka “Rato”) also climbed Guillamet Founrouge needle (600 m 6b) along with Rodrigo Maike.

The Franco Argentine route is the souitheast face of Fitz Roy, it has 650 meters high and was conquered on February 2, 1952 by Lionel Terray and Guido Magnone. The difficulties of ascent of this route are not only technical, as reported by Ricardo "Rato". Verglass, too much winds and a lot of old ropes along the way.


Great action shot.

Source: http://altamontanha.com/colunas.asp?NewsID=2796

MAY 2011

Brazilian summits on Himalaya

Along with several south americans on the spring season of 2011 summiting some 8000ers, some brazilian did show up at the highest mountains of the world and that was the result:

Maximo Kaush – 3rd successfull summit on Cho Oyu as a mountain guide, expedition leader for summitclimb, by that, he became the very first south american to summit Cho Oyu 3 times.

Carlos Eduardo Santalena and Carlos Eduardo Canellas summited Everest on may 6th. Santalena, at the age of 24, is now the youngest brazilian to do so.

Cleonice Weidlich reached Kangchenjunga summit on may 20th and became the brazilian woman (and south american woman) with more 8000ers on her belt, 5 confirmed summits so far. And coming back down from the summit, she almost died.


Cleo saw death really close. Photo by Alex Gavan.


Maximo Kaush and Jangbu Sherpa - Cho Oyu summit shot.

Source: http://altamontanha.com/colunas.asp?NewsID=2921

AUGUST 2011

Manoel Morgado gets one more: Khuiten summit – 4.374 m (Mongolia)

Unprecedented conquest for Brazilians in Mongolia

Lisete Florenzano, Eduardo Roberto Santos Filho and José Resende led by Manuel Morgado just made the first conquest of Brazilian Mountaineers on Khuiten (4.374 meters) in the Altai mountains of Mongolia, which borders China and Siberia.


The team at the summit shot.

Source: http://altamontanha.com/colunas.asp?NewsID=3002

OCTOBER 2011

Maximo Kaush summits Shishapangma

Located in Tibet, Shishapangma is the lowest of the 14 with more than eight thousand meters in the world, but it is not easy. Leading a group of eight people, including climbers and Sherpas, Maximo succeeded in bringing members up to the top of the mountain.

By the time we recieved the news, Max, which is an AltaMontanha columnist, was at the second camp of the mountain at 7000 meters high, beginning its descent to the advanced base camp.

It is the fourth time Maximo reaches the top of a mountain over eight thousand meters, but this is only the second different mountain, as he climbed Cho Oyu three times, earning the title of the Latin American that summited more times that mountain.

It was a great conquest for Maximo, but it must be clear that he did not reach the highest summit of the mountain, the south summit, he reached the central summit, only 9 meters lower.


Summit shot.

Source: http://altamontanha.com/colunas.asp?NewsID=3080

OCTOBER 2011

Maximo Kaush on the summit of Ama Dablam for the third time

At Oct 29, 2011, the mountaineer Maximo Kausch led four customers and two Sherpas to the summit of the mountain with the normal route more difficult on Khumbu Valley, home of Mount Everest in Nepal.

On the company website where he works, SummitClimb, Maximo said in English that made the summit along with Jean Michel, Grace MacDonald, John, Richard and Sange Sherpa and Pasang. They took eight hours to leave the camp 2 and reach the top.


Maximo Kaush and his clients.

Source: http://altamontanha.com/colunas.asp?NewsID=3124

NOVEMBER 2011

Waldemar Niclevicz does for the second time the Garganta do Diago (Devil’s Throat) waterfall tyrolean traverse

The goal is that the Iguazu Falls are elected one of the New Seven Wonders of Nature.

The climber from Paraná, Waldemar Niclevicz, also participates in the campaign for the Iguazu Falls in Foz do Iguaçu, in western regions, are voted among the New Seven Wonders of Nature. Niclevicz used a zip line crossing the Devil's Throat on the morning of last friday (nov 4). The climber has promoted the campaign by carrying a banner with the message "Vote for Iguazu Falls".

The crossing is 155 meters long and was made between the Argentine and Brazilian sides of Iguazu Falls. According to the official website of the campaign, the climber was chosen because his international fame. He was the first Brazilian to reach the top of Everest and K2 in northern Pakistan and is the most experienced climber at altitude in the country.

PS: The campaign was a success, Iguazu falls wone and became one of the seven wonders.


Waldemar. Hang on dude!

Source: http://altamontanha.com/colunas.asp?NewsID=3132

NOVEMBER 2011

Ricardo Baltazar, the “rat”, opens season with the summit of Poincenot Needle

The climber Ricardo Baltazar (better known as 'rat'), from Torres / RS, sends news of Patagonia, where he was. A simple conversation on the bus towards El Chalten, and another day of sport climbing in the vicinity of the city, resulted on an invitation to climb the Poincenot Needle (3.002 m) along with two experienced and respected climbers, the Austrians Toni and Lui Ponholzer Krenn , veterans of several seasons at the site.

The three reached the summit of the Needle on 07/11, by the Whillans-Cochrane route. For Austrians, the climb was a warm up for the purpose of this season, which is to perform the first full ascent of the north face of Cerro Torre. As for Ricardo, was an opportunity to reach a more important peak in Patagonia and to refine their techniques of alpine climbing with someone who knows the deal.


Summit shot.

Source: http://altamontanha.com/colunas.asp?NewsID=3150

DECEMBER 2011

Baltazar the “rat”, another needle on his belt

The climber Ricardo "rat" Baltazar reached on Saturday, 03/12/11, his second summit this season in Patagonia.

After climbing in early November Poincenot Needle, this time Ricardo reached the summit of Saint Exupery Needle, of 2.558 meters, in the chain of mountains located in Fitz Roy area. The route chosen was the Kearney / Harrington, first climbed in 1988 by the American couple Alan and Sue Kearney Harrington. The route is about 550 m, preceded by a long stretch of rock and ice ramps, starting on the west face, deep in the Valley of the Tower, until near the neck with the needle Rafael Juarez (also known as innominate), where line follows the east side.


The top of the needle.

Source: http://altamontanha.com/colunas.asp?NewsID=3183

DECEMBER 2011

Manoel Morgado summits Vinson and becomes the second brazilian to reach all the seven summits.

The mountaineer Manoel Morgado reached the summit of Mount Vinson, 4.892 meters, the highest mountain in Antarctica and is the second Brazilian to finish the 7 summits. On December 11 Manuel Morgado reached the top of the frozen continent, ending the last seven mountain of the project, which aims to climb the highest mountain on each continent.

In addition to Vinson, Morgado also arrived yesterday (14) to the summit of Mount Schinn that with 4.660 meters of altitude is the third highest of the frozen continent. This is a First Brazilian Ascent to the mountain.

With this achievement, Manuel becomes the second Brazilian to complete the wanted list of seven peaks in the original proposal of who created this concept, the American Dick Bass.


Schinn summit shot.


Final ridge to Vinson summit.

Source: http://altamontanha.com/colunas.asp?NewsID=3202

DECEMBER 2011

Ricardo Baltazar the “rat” strikes again: Innominata needle

The climber Ricardo Baltazar continues his saga in the mountains of El Chalten, Patagonia, in Argentina. On dec 14th, he reached the summit of the Innominata Needle, also known as "Rafael Juarez," along with two Argentine friends. Despite the continuous effort of almost 48 hours, climber Rat considered quiet, and the three enjoyed a window of high temperatures, clear skies and no wind, a rare combination in Patagonia.

The Innominata needle is 2.482 meters high and is part of Fitz Roy chain of mountains, being situated between the Poincenot Needle and Saint-Exupéry Needle. The first ascent of the mountain was in 1974 by a team composed of two Americans (R. Wild, D. Reid) and three British (P. Braithwaite, M. Boysen, L. Dickinson). They set up the way Anglo-American route in the west and south walls (400 m, 6b + A0), the route chosen by Rat and his friends to climb Innominata.

Compared with its neighbors, the Innominata seems small. So many climbers end up underestimating their size, which results in frequent unplanned bivouacs on its slopes. The Innominata has about nine established routes and variants. Some of these routes are being consolidated as classic climbs in the region, because of its rock quality and landscape.


Rat and Gaston almost at the top of the route.

Source: http://altamontanha.com/colunas.asp?NewsID=3208

JANUARY 2012

Ricardo Baltazar never rests: Summit on Cerro Torre

Fresh one, we received a brief message from Ricardo Baltazar, known by all his friends as Rat, stating that he reached the summit of Cerro Torre in the last window of good weather for the season. We did not get far more detailed information about the climb, but all we know is that he reached the summit of this legendary mountain. Chances are his partner in this climb was the Argentinian Carlos Gaston, who had already joined in the first attempt to climb the Compressor route days before, the Southeast Ridge of the mountain.

This has been a very productive season for Baltazar the rat. In November, he was at the summit of Poincenot Needle. In December, he made the summit in Saint-Exupéry Needle and Innominata needle (also known as Rafael Juarez). Now in January, Rat stood at the summit of Cerro Torre, which is certainly a great personal achievement and a valuable reward for their effort and performance in difficult and demanding climbs in Patagonia. In his second season at the site, he had impressive results. In almost every opportunity that Rat had, he was on some wall, and he made it for the summit. The only time something wrong happened was on his first attempt on Cerro Torre, days before, when the weather changed, with heavy rain and strong winds. Otherwise, he invested in 8 mountains, with 8 successful summits (the chronological order of ascent: Guillaumet, Media Luna, El Mocho, Fitz Roy, Poincenot, Saint-Exupéry, Innominata, Cerro Torre).

At this time he is comming back home to celebrate with friends and family his achievements.


The famous ice mushroom of Cerro Torre.


Atop the ice mushroom, at 3.135 meters high.

Source: http://altamontanha.com/colunas.asp?NewsID=3238

That's it for now, see you guys in one year with part III!

Best wishes to all,

Parofes

Legal Issues


To hike/ climb is a dangerous activity and requires proper equipment and clothing, the owner of this page cannot be blamed by injuries caused to anyone who read this page for its info about the mountain, and eventually got hurt by doing so with reckless behaviour or bad weather conditions.

Paulo Roberto Felipe Schmidt – AKA: PAROFES

External Links

A brazilian website to get mountains info, including gps files to download:http://www.rumos.net.br/rumos/

My youtube channel: www.youtube.com/parofes
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The biggest brazilian website about climbing and mountaineering, for which I'm a columnist:

Images

All the summits (6) of Agulhas Negras Peak

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