What's New On This Page?
> May 29th, 2013: SP V3 design updated.
> June 14th, 2005: PeterCorneliusSpaeth's north face remark inserted.
> July 25th, 2004: Link to the Schober GROUP inserted.
Hochschober Gets Presented
Hochschober is the most beautiful mountain of Schober Group, although it is not the highest one. This group stands south of Grossglockner Group. Its peaks are rocky and steep, but although many of them reach altitudes above 3000 meters, glaciers are rare. Hochschober is a pleasant exception. Its 500 meters high north slope is covered by a glacier, up to 45 degrees steep. The most beautiful view on it is from the north, from Lesachtal.
Today, probably the majority of mountaineers ascend Hochschober from the south, from Hochschober Huette (2322 m). The other possibility (with the previous one ideal for crossing) is by the south-east slope and on the upper part SE ridge. Both these are in high summer covered by some snow only on the upper part, so the ascent is only a moderately difficult one. The third possibility for ascent is from Lesachtal, from where you reach Schobertoerl and then by a beautiful crossing of Kleinschober (3125 m) reach the main summit by its NE ridge. It is of course possible also to climb the summit directly over the north slope. The difficulty of this tour depends on snow conditions. In good conditions this is also a tour for good mountain skiers.
The mountain stands in the western part of mountain group, in a strong crest, running towards the north-east. Besides its 500 meters high north slope nice is also the summit ridge, runnig on the neighbouring Kleinschober, 3125 m. The crossing of both summits some time runs on a quite high altitude.
First ascent of Hochschober is attributed to Franz Keil (an artist well-known in his time for constructing reliefs of mountans!) and his friends, who ascended the mountain on August 18th, 1855, directly from the SW. It is possible that the mountain had been climbed earlier by military mapmakers!
First ascent on today's normal route by W-ridge was done by Ludwig Purtscheller on July 24th, 1890.
First ascent of north flank was done by L. Bergmann and friends on July 25th, 1928.
|For the south approach you use Leibnitztal. If you drive through the valley of Isel (Lienz - Matrei) you turn in Ainet (10 km from Lienz) towards the north and use a narrow but good road above the main valley which finally turns into Leibnitztal. On 1500 m there is a good parking place. The road goes further up, but is closed for public traffic, so you go by the marked path. From the parking place to Hochschober Huette you need 2 hours.|
If you don't want to descend the same way it is better to leave your car at the Felbertauern road, near the small village of St. Johann im Walde (Unterleibnig), between Huben and Ainet. There is a _very_ small cablecar that brings you up to the village Oberleibnig (1247 m). From there it is 3 h of walk to Hochschober hut .
For the north approach you use the road from Iseltal to Kals (a renowned tourist resort south of Grossglockner), but in Lesach you turn right (towards the east). The road to Lesachalm (Mountain Hut) is closed for public traffic (but you can phone to the hut and ask for authorisation).
The third possibility is the eastern approach. It uses the road through Debanttal (the entrance in this valley is from Lienz). It ends for public traffic on Seichenbrunn parking place, at about 1670 m. From there you proceed to Lienzer Huette (1977 m) and by the valley to Gartltoerl (2514 m) where the SE ascent begins. In this case you must return by the same route.
1. West Ridge - Over Staniska Scharte. The marked rote ascends from Hochschober Huette to Staniska-Scharte (2990 m) and then by the west ridge to the top. It avoids any glacier sections, but also in summer you need to have ice pick and crampons. This is normal ascent, medium hard hike up.
2. From Staniskatal. Staniska-Scharte can also be reached from the west through Staniskatal - 1900 m of altitude difference!
3. South-east slope and on the upper part SE ridge. Either from Hochschober Huette or Lienzer Huette to Gartl and over the SE slope to the top. Marked, difficulty equal to #1.
4. From Schobertoerl over Kleinschober and the E ridge. Schobertoerl, 2905 m, can be reached either from Lesachtal, from Debanttal (Lienzer Huette) or from Leibnitztal (Hochschober Huette). The part to Kleinschober is an easy rock climb (UIAA II), often icy, because of the N slope, from Kleinschober to the main summit easy snow ridge.
5. North face. Easy glacier tour, up to 45 degrees steep. The glacier is retreating in the last years, so come early in the summer.
1. North face. See Herbert's excellent route description!
Books & Maps
Peter Freiberger: Berge Tirols. Bruckmann, 2000.
Sepp Schnuerer: Hohe Tauern. BLV Verlagsgesellschaft. Muenchen, 1990.
One possible map: Kompass Wanderkarte, 1:50000.
You can see a detailed map (1:50000) on-line on:
The best map is Alpenvereinskarte (map of the german alpine club) Nr. 41 Schobergruppe 1:25.000, can be ordered at DAV Life Alpin (online shop) - click here.
Red TapeNo limitations. The upper parts of mountain roads are closed for public traffic.
When To ClimbThe best time for the south and east ascents is summer and autumn, July - October.
For the north slope glacier ascent come early in summer, or even late in spring. For good skiers the north slope can be also done with skis. It is steep, take also care of avalanche danger!
PeterCorneliusSpaeth: Once the north face was a nice little ice climb. As of now (post 2003) it is no more worth visiting. Lots of stones melting through and the ice is rapidly retreating.
Peter Cornelius Spaeth Says: "Hochschober hut is a very recommandable, friendly place to stay. E.g. once I arrived near 10 pm, they still cooked something for me."
Lienzer Huette, 1977 m.
Lesachalmhuette, 1828 m.
You can get toourist information in: Tourismusverband Iseltal, 9900 Oberlienz. Tel.: 0043 / (0)4852 / 64759.
- Hochschober normal route
professional done trip report with pictures on the website of the Bergrettung Lienz (mountain rescue team from the town Lienz)
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