Home made drawing of the 1990... : Photos, Diagrams & Topos : SummitPost

Comments

rpc - Feb 9, 2005 12:44 pm - Voted 10/10

Much good work.

This is great. Thanks for submitting.

asmrz - Feb 9, 2005 8:44 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Much good work.

Thanks. As you can see from the punched holes, it has been in my informal book of topos for quite a while. This is really worthy route and more importantly, I now have scanner so I'm getting dangerous.

Cheers, Alois.

ChugachMan - Nov 11, 2009 4:07 pm - Hasn't voted

First Pitch

I just got word that this is the route that Jeff Maurer started up, pulled two pieces, and fell to his death on this fall - about midway up the first pitch. The pro is horrible at the crux, and you will be looking at ground fall from 60-80 feet on what I would estimate as hard 5.10 or easy 5.11 (5.10b/c seemed a little sandbagged to me, when comparing to Tahquitz and Jtree grades). If you do decide to climb it, please be careful.
edit: knifeblade comment removed.

asmrz - Nov 13, 2009 11:47 am - Hasn't voted

First Pitch

The knifeblades recommended in my write-up were for the aid sections higher up. Miguel led our first pitch with clean pro,with Stoppers, RPs and small Cams if I remember correctly (it has been a while). Sorry to hear that someone might have been killed on this. When we did this all those years ago, it was a serious climb for us, possibly the hardest we have done till then. Maybe the committment remains high, even today.

ChugachMan - Nov 13, 2009 12:13 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: First Pitch

Thanks again for the clarification Alois, and props to you and Miguel for putting up this neat line. It definitely is a pretty serious pitch, but I also recall it being a very satisfying and fun one once it was all over. It sounds like we'll probably learn more about the accident in the new issue of ANAM.

ryanhuetter - Jun 27, 2012 12:40 am - Hasn't voted

More Bolts?

Alois,
Do you know anything about the proliferation of bolts on the first of the headwall pitches? While climbing Lenticular Limbo today, I noticed a whole lot of them, more than noted on your topo for sure, maybe 12 or more, spaced evenly every 8 feet or so up the seam. Has it been retroed/freed to your knowledge?

Thanks, Ryan

asmrz - Jun 27, 2012 12:10 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: More Bolts?

Hi Ryan,
I have been told about it. It is not my doing and nobody asked me if it would be ok to bolt it. No one came forward to say I did it, either. Wimps! I don't agree with it, but I'm too old to go up there to chop it all. We did not place any bolts on the FA, used knifeblades only. At the start of the headweall pitch, there was one existing bad spinner bolt and one hole which we assumed were partly drilled by the Lenticular Limbo guys on their FA (the two routes meet at this point, just one spot). PS 2014. One of the Lenticular Limbo guys commented on another forum, that they did not place any bolts near our route. Pretty sad, this was a very good mini-wall in a wonderful alpine setting, not a sport climb. Sorry, I'm an old school, I think it is unethical to alter someone's existing route, especially since there is a reasonable knifeblade seam all the way on that pitch. We tried to make it harder on ourselves during the FA, not easier. I would hope people respect what we tried to do and leave it be.

to post!