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Hotlum-Bolam Ridge Climber's Log

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LJBeckFirst climb in California  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 24, 2013


Climbed the Hotlum-Bolam route with SMGs. Awesome weather for summit day.
Posted Sep 30, 2013 2:56 pm

Fletchear popping  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 26, 2011


glissade. big day.
Posted Nov 30, 2012 5:30 pm

scgrantHotlum-Bolam Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2012


Great conditions all the way up. First time climbing Mount Shasta, really enjoyed this route to the top.
Posted Aug 27, 2012 8:54 pm

CambotFirst 14er  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2012


Waited out thunderstorms at North Gate one night, then hiked up to Marine Camp and made the summit the next morning. Good amount of sun cupping, but otherwise good conditions and no one else on the mountain. Very fun!
Posted Aug 20, 2012 8:03 pm

lzpupHotlum-Bolam ridg
Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2012


Great Route , perfect snow conditions. Got a late start due to wind and hit turn around time about 800 ft shy. Loved the route and ready to go back to finish up. Great time of year for the route in my opinion. Camped at the high camp on the ridge, fantastic!
Posted Aug 15, 2012 4:23 pm

countrykyleGreat Climb!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2010


1st 14er. Climbed with my guide buddy. Perfect weather... clear sky, no wind.
Posted Aug 7, 2012 4:51 pm

MpritchardH-B Rdge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 26, 2012


Had to hold off going up Fri nite because of weather, so came to the North Gate TH with snow in the parking lot. Spent the nite at 9400, because too much fog prevented further ascent. Summited on Suday. Besides 4 to 6 inches of fresh snow to slog through, conditions were perfect. Saw about 12 other climbers, some of them were skiiers. The summit was very busy with Memorial Day Ave Gulch Climbers. Route was very steep, but besides a layer of fresh snow, conditions were good all the way up. No ice!!
Posted Jun 7, 2012 11:18 am

cdogsummer '11 fun  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2011


had a nice climb up the H-B Ridge route with my friend Tim. There were a couple other groups on the route this day, including an organized class. Camped at 10,000' in a dry site with flowing water. Pretty fun route and different experience on Mt Shasta. Did see a bowling ball sized rock whiz down "the ramp", but otherwise no rockfall observed.
Posted Aug 1, 2011 12:14 am

damntallRe: summer '11 fun


Think this is still skiable? Just wondering how much sun cupping and runneling you saw on the route, and how far down the snow still comes as of Jul. 30th
Posted Aug 4, 2011 1:20 pm

mrchad9Scenic route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 26, 2011


Solo trip. Was able to camp on dry ground with running water at 9500 feet. Met a few familiar SPers along the way. Great view of the mountain from throughout this route.
Posted Jun 27, 2011 8:49 pm

GumbieHotlum-Bolam  Sucess!


Several times
Posted Mar 12, 2011 2:23 pm



Have climbed and descended this route a number of times. Great fun !
Posted Dec 20, 2010 11:30 am

Shane RathbunSucess  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 11, 2010

Shane Rathbun

Climbed with Mark Strahan over the course of 2-days, slept at around 10,800 on the ridge. We were the only two on the north side. Great conditions, small wind slabs on the upper mountain. We accidentally took the the wrong chute directly to the right of the Headwall which was a bit mixy but ended up traversing west over the to the Rabbit's Ears and on to the Bolam then up to the plateau at the Sulphur Springs.
Posted Dec 6, 2010 2:18 pm

Peak FreakHotlum-Bolam Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2009

Peak Freak

Great climb with MountaingirlBC. We were the only two on the north side of the mountain, and didn't see anyone else while on the summit either. Conditions were much better than expected with only one small "yucky" section early on. Loved our little variation to the summit which came out at a bivy site a short easy walk away from the true summit.
Posted Aug 17, 2009 11:57 pm

MountaingirlBCAgreed! Fun route!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 4, 2009


Headed up with no real expectation of summitting given the conditions reports we'd been able to dig up. The words "ice bouldering" had been mentioned and everything we had heard/read lead us to believe that the route was 'VERY VERY' icy. Were pleasantly surprised to only encounter one yucky section fairly early on. We kept expecting to run into an impenetrable wall of ice but before we knew it, we couldn't go up any more :) Did a fun little variation with some 4th class rock to gain the ridge. Descended the Bolum glacier which as big open crevasses that are difficult to see from above. Excellent day out!
Posted Aug 8, 2009 3:34 pm

Darren9Fun route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 27, 2007


One partner and I came in from North Gate and camped at the last line of rocks directly below the route at around 10K. There was a small pool of water in camp. We ascended the route as described with one variation veering left to climb the rocks / snow between the Hotlum right hand ice gully and the route itself. We roped up on this for about a pitch and topped out at the Cats Ears, then continued up the route. This route is scenic and not too difficult, with a great view of the Hotlum and Bolam glaciers. Considering this, and that most people do not come to this side of the mountain, it is in my opinion the best all around route on Shasta.
Posted Jun 8, 2009 2:25 am

mdostbyHutlum-Bolam Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 15, 2003


Great climb with great friends.
Posted Oct 27, 2008 10:38 pm

AriehDavidFavorite Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 20, 2004


Climbed this route with two novice friends. They now both love climbing and have pursued it in their own lives. One had never even been backpacking before. I would recommend this route for the more adventurous, but in reality, it is not any more technically demanding than Av Gulch. It is only harder for 3 reasons: 1)Because of the fact that in some places the consequences of a fall could end up in a crevasse. 2) Because the snow can be quite hard an compact ice. 3) Since it is not in an enclosed valley but a ridge it has the psychological factor of feeling more exposed.
Thoroughly enjoyed this gem!
Posted Jul 31, 2007 10:03 am

tjbst47HB Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 28, 2007


Started at the lower camp, approx. 9300 ft. Nice spot with running water. A few small crevasses to cross and we had to avoid some icy sections on the glacier. Above the ramp, went right at rabbit ears and climbed maybe 300 ft of talus which was not so fun. Went Memorial Day weekend, about 30 cars at North Gate, but EVERYONE climbed Sunday and turned back due to weather. We climbed on Monday, saw absolutely no one on the north side routes, and returned to find only one other car in the parking lot. Silly people need to plan on more than one summit day possibility.
Posted May 29, 2007 5:21 pm

96avs01Change of Plans  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 19, 2007


Originally planned to climb the Whitney glacier route. Stayed at Marine Camp on 5/18/07. Awoke at 3 AM to very windy conditions. Decided wait until 5 AM to try the Bolam glacier. Still too windy at 5 AM, so we decided to sleep. Awoke at 9 AM to perfect windless and cold conditions. Decided to go up light and fast on the Ridge. Observed no fresh rockfall evidence. We had perfect snow conditions up and down, with the exception of icy conditions on the North-West traverse above 13,500'. Would not recommend this as a plan-of-action, but the conditions made it perfect for us.
Posted May 20, 2007 9:50 pm

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