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Hotlum Glacier Climber's Log

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wdimpflHotlum Ice Slope  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 15, 1978


Date uncertain. Climbed this route with David Nesbitt and his research colleague in the UC Berkeley Chemistry Department. We camped on the prominent wedge shaped rock in the middle of the glacier at 11,700 ft.
Posted Dec 27, 2017 2:51 am

GlennDHG Climb  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 15, 2014


Two day trip (not with the SMG ;) ) up the Hotlum Glacier. Fantastic climb, great weather, glad to get the peak on my second attempt.
Posted Dec 19, 2014 11:16 pm

ScottyPHotlum ice gulley  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 15, 2014


Fun climb with great exposure. Tallus scramble to the top, not fun!
Posted Jun 16, 2014 1:45 pm

ElGrecoLeft Ice Gully  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2012


An awesome day with a great team: Chad, Vitaliy, Max and Gleb. The crevasses were open and offered spectacular scenery and fun climbing. Climbing the bergschrund and the alpine ice in the gully were the highlights.
Posted Aug 29, 2012 3:51 pm

mrchad9Favorite Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2012


Perhaps my favorite route right now out of many fantastic options on Shasta (and that's after having done 10 of them).

Conditions were perfect with a lot of open crevasses, we crossed the bergshund without placing protection. The right side of the headwall was melted out and we went left in the chute closest to the headwall placing a few screws and a couple pickets on the way up.
Posted Aug 28, 2012 12:54 pm

Vitaliy M.Hotlum Glacier-left gully  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2012

Vitaliy M.

Cool route. From brewer TH we climbed the glacier from it's base. Lots of opened crevasses to go around. Climbed directly over a big shrund to the base of hotlum head-wall and took the left gully up some great alpine ice.
Posted Aug 27, 2012 3:48 pm

Darren9Hotlum Right Ice  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2012


With seven others from Sierra Mountaineering Group, finally climbed the right side ice gully which I have been eyeing for many years. The best approach to it was traversing across the broken rocks from just below the Cats Ears. We found well consolidated ice perfect for screws and were able to climb the whole thing in two rope teams on a running belay. We used 9 ice screws for this and belayed from a boulder at the very top. It is not as steep or scary as it looks. However, the runout is over a cliff and is probably fatal, in my opinion it would be foolish to solo this route. With two ice tools it was really fun. Lots of loose rocks at the top, this was the greatest danger. We climbed through sheet lightning and rain in the morning and did this route to the summit and a car to car in 18 hours.
Posted Aug 24, 2012 4:08 pm

WayneFryHotlum Right Gully
Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2012


Attempted a car to car from the Northgate TH with a group of seven from SMG. Made it to the base of the ice gullies but had to bail because of a case of mountain sickness. Bummed, but was able to get some great pictures of the team climbing the gully from over near the cats ears.
Posted Aug 21, 2012 11:48 pm

GigaMikeHotlum Left Gully  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 29, 2012


Climbed with Adam, Casey and Tom. The climb went slower than expected but a late summit meant we were the only ones on the summit. Great weather and views!
Posted Jun 16, 2012 11:07 pm

rhyangJuly, August 2004


Went with Shasta Mountain Guides to learn glacier travel, crevasse rescue, and alpine ice climbing. Did the west Hotlum glacier route in July, and an alpine ice gully to the left of the Hotlum Headwall in August. Toproped crevasses, prusiked up crevasses, practiced pulley systems, etc.
Posted Dec 20, 2010 11:20 am

Shane RathbunHigh winds
Date Climbed: Oct 23, 2010

Shane Rathbun

Got hit with the first major snow of the season for the mountain. We had the goal of setting up a base camp and to play in the ice falls but we were met with 50 mph sustained winds and 70 mph gusts at around 8500 feet so we turned around and got out of there!!!

Attempted with Vitaliy, Gabor, and Nick Sappa.
Posted Dec 6, 2010 4:06 pm

myjudgeAwesome side of Shasta
Date Climbed: Jun 24, 2006


Great climb in a moderate snow year. Too much snow, especially later in the spring keeps Brewer closed too long. Beautiful camping spot at the base of Hotlum with running water comming off the glacier.
Posted Oct 27, 2010 2:39 pm

GumbieHotlum-Bolam Ridge  Sucess!


Posted Oct 1, 2010 8:14 am

kovarpagood skiing  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2010


Climbed the left broad gully with Vendulka and then skied right off of the summit (well, right below). Hard snow the first 1000 ft or so and then great corn all the way to the camp at 9,500. Descended the 4,500 ft in less than an hour, how awesome. Martin made it to about 12,500 and joined us on the lower part of the ski descent.
Started around 6.30am and summited at 1.30pm after a leisurely ascent.
Posted Jul 6, 2010 3:48 pm

PellucidWombatToo Late in Season, but Plenty of Fun!
Date Climbed: Sep 27, 2008


Attempted the route from the Brewer Creek TH and made it up to the base of the 2nd icefall before reaching a dead-end from the melted out crevasses. Fun ice climbing to get there, and I can't wait to come back!
Posted Dec 30, 2008 7:14 pm

skottyGreat route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 21, 2007


Plenty of crevasses to play around on the way up and no crowds.
Posted Aug 29, 2007 7:27 pm

ascendingzionAll you want in a glacier route
Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2006


This is a great route with good camping, crevasse rescue, serac climbing, route finding and ice or rock higher up, overall a great alpine climb!
Posted Feb 1, 2007 8:57 pm

FlexHotlum in Aug/03  Sucess!


A mellow day up the middle of the Hotlum to the Right ice gully headwall. The gully was melted out at the bottom, so I skirted to the right and got in at the bottom of the ice and soloed to the top. Fun glissade down west of the glacier.
Posted Dec 20, 2006 5:23 am

Mike NGlacier is great

Mike N

The glacier is phenomenal. Good for route finding and crevasse rescue practice. Camp has running water at this time of year.
Posted Aug 17, 2006 7:26 pm

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