Cordillera Blanca - RANGE > Huascarán Sur > Climber's LogHuascarán Sur Climber's Log
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| astrobassman | Huascaran Sur Normal Route Attempt Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2012 | |
| Felt very strong and acclimated after Pisco and Chopicalqui, but I came down with something and got sick at camp 1. No summit, but will come back someday. | |
| Posted Jul 31, 2012 12:33 am | ||
| andret | Normal Route  Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2011 | |
| Climbed the normal route in 5 days. Excellent conditions, though small sections now require an axe and a tool. The ice fall is not nearly as bad as everyone makes it sound. | |
| Posted Aug 13, 2011 7:12 pm | ||
| rgg | Back again! Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2011 | |
| Almost a month after my first attempt, which stranded almost half way up to the summit from campo 2, I was back at campo 2 with two climbers I had met earlier in Huaraz. The next morning, August 8, Angikar had a stomach bug and couldn´t climb. At half past eight, I decided to have a look at the route, and, specifically, at the point where I returned the last time. Sakshama decided to stay with his friend. It was a bit cold and windy, but otherwise a perfect day, and after passing the col, the wind was much, much less and although it was still cold, it was in fact quite pleasant weather. As I reached the critical section, I saw what I couldn´t see in the clouds a month ago: the route went up steeply for 50m or so. I saw a route marker high up, and some bits of snow were trickling down, signalling that there were other climbers higher up somewhere. I climbed up the steep section and met two others. They told me that it was an easy but long slog to the summit from there - they had taken 3.5 hours for it! As it was almost 12 o´clock, I thought that I wouln´t have enough time, but decided to have a look anyway. I could always return if it got too late, right? A couple of times I thought I saw the summit, and boosted by the idea that it wasn´t much further, I continued, only to find out that it was a false summit. In the end, I finally got there minutes before half past three, 7 hours after I had started. Fortunately, as I had seen on the way up, there were a few places where I could glissade down, saving a lot of time, and with that I made it down to campo 2 in less than 3 hours, minutes after sunset. The next morning, the wind was too strong to try for the summit, but that was hardly relevant as the stomach bug hadn´t gone away yet. During the day, the wind abated a bit, and I headed out with Sakshama, to show him the lower half of the route, up to the crux. However, on the col itself the wind was blowing hard again and we went back to camp after half an hour. On the third morning, Angikar finally felt better, although pretty weak from not eating much in two days, but the wind was still unrelenting. A summit attempt was out of the question and having no more food to stay up there any longer, we headed down to the refuge. By the way, campo 2 was the worst camp site I´ve spent the night: cold (almost minus 8 degrees Celcius inside my tent), quite windy, even though we were about 150m below the actual col, sheltered by an ice wall, and dirty because of all the other climbers who had camped there before us ... which may well have been the cause for my friends´ stomach bug. | |
| Posted Aug 12, 2011 12:02 pm | ||
| LS | Finally good weather Date Climbed: Jul 21, 2011 | |
| But we had to break the trail all the way from Camp II to the summit. See trip report, GPS track and photos at my blog Distantpeak | |
| Posted Jul 25, 2011 8:47 pm | ||
| rgg | The route disappeared in the clouds Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2011 | |
| The weather wasn´t too good at col camp at night. An occasional bit of snowfall and more than an occasional bit of wind. Besides, the summit was covered in clouds. Yesterday it had been about the same and nobody climbed Sur. Eventually we started shortly before 8 am, very late, but with the daylight we could at least see where we were going. Alas, the clouds that covered the higher part of the mountain didn´t budge and so the route was too hard to find. I´ll be back! | |
| Posted Jul 14, 2011 9:15 pm | ||
| bighornmonkey | First time is a charm Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2011 | |
| Day 1: up to Base camp (4200m) Day 2: up to camp 1 on the glacier (5300m) Day 3: up to camp 2 just below the col (5900m) Day 4: Summit in 6.5 hrs from camp 2. It helped that we followed tracks from another party. Had to do one rappel on the way down. | |
| Posted Jul 4, 2011 10:34 pm | ||
| dwalters1 | Huascaran Sur Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2009 | |
| Big mountain - wish i was better acclimatized, i still am waiting for the chance to head back to huascaran. Garganta was more sketchy then i thought. I would recommend leaving VERY early from camp 1 to head through there. We left at 5am, and had a refrigerator sized block pass within 30 ft of my partner and I. Turned around on my summit push at around 6500m from bad AMS symptoms and hightailed it back to base camp. The route above camp 2 was ok, alot of crevasses. Also, there were LARGE avalanche debris fields on either side of camp 1. | |
| Posted Oct 20, 2009 1:34 pm | ||
| oliverkalt | Garganta Route Date Climbed: Jun 4, 2001 | |
| Very out of breath and very cold. Avoid the Garganta too late in the day! We had scary slushy deep snow on the descent. It would probably have been safer to camp on Garganta once more. | |
| Posted Aug 7, 2009 2:19 am | ||
| kevin trieu | 5 days on the mountain... Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2009 | |
| 2nd attempt 7/1/11 success. 5 days on the mountain. 2 miserable nights at high camp, 19K' but no summit. apparently nobody made the summit in two weeks. in restrospect, we should have hired a mule to get to basecamp and our climbing schedule was a bit agressive. should not have skipped camp 1. | |
| Posted Jun 22, 2009 1:11 pm | ||
| Timothy Pearl | A good 6 days. Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2008 | |
| With Jim, Eric and Ben. Took our time gaining camps to be sure of acclimatization Base Camp, Moraine Camp, Camp 1, then Camp 2. Weather never really let up on the upper portions of the mountain. By the time we reached C1, we pushed through the Candeletta in ugly weather and set up C2 in full ugly col conditions. Never let up enough to even think of leaving the following night. Returned to Moraine Camp next day then to Huaraz the next. Weather didn't clear up again till about the 11th. | |
| Posted Aug 15, 2008 11:05 am | ||
| Eric Holle | La Garganta Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2008 | |
| Our team of Tim, Jim, Ben and I pushed up to Camp 2 in tough conditions. There were a few ice pitches to get through in the Candeletta that were quite trying to our stamina, but we got it done. Once at Camp 2, the already bad weather became worse. That night, there was quite a lot of wind and new snowfall creating questionable route and avalanche condidtions. We retreated back to the Moraine Camp but now know the beta for Huascaran Sur....attack this peak via El Escudo. | |
| Posted Aug 14, 2008 10:57 pm | ||
| MichaelJ | The Shield right direct Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2007 | |
| Silvio and I hiked up to Moraine camp (4800) but he got very sick that night so we didn´t leave for our high camp (5600) until late the next day. We checked out the approach to the Shield on Day Three and decided to cross the ´schrund on the far right (5800) and try a direct line to the summit ridge--the longest ice line we could spot on the face. On Day Four we left the tent at 3 am with a single headlamp (Silvio´s) and a liter of water each after using the last of our fuel to melt snow. On the first pitch at 4 am Silvio´s light stopped working but he kept climbing. I led the rest of the climb to the ridge (ice, ice-neve, neve, totaling eight or so rope lengths), which we reached at 11:30. Then came an endless slog to join the Normal Route around 6500. At this point it was late, getting cloudy, and we were knackered, so we descended the Normal. We reached our tent at 7:30, having bummed a couple of liters of water from a team on the way down. Preliminary research indicates this may be a new route. | |
| Posted Jul 14, 2007 7:23 pm | ||
| highice | almost a solo | |
| my partner was hung over and sick so I started going to the other camps seeking a team to join. Met some nice guys from iceland and climbed with them to high camp. They all got sick, but one decided he didn't want me to solo so joined me. he started feeling good and we did top out together. What made him so driven was he promised a friend back home he'd get a picture of himself holding a frigin life size poster a Brittany Spears (or however you spell her name). So I took the shot...whatever! | ||
| Posted Jan 30, 2007 8:56 pm | ||
| Lubos | Normal North Route Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2001 | |
| I climbed this mountain in July 2001, I had great weather and I only met 5 people during my climb. It was the most difficult solo climb I have done so far. Solo climb. | |
| Posted Aug 2, 2006 1:57 am | ||
| alexclimb | Huascaran North, Normal Date Climbed: May 26, 2006 | |
| Tryed but been stopped by waist deep snow a bit above Camp II. Almost nobody on the mountain, no trek but the weather is above any compliments - no drop of rain or grain of snow for more then two weeks... | |
| Posted May 26, 2006 6:49 pm | ||
| tetontom | Normal Garganta Route Date Climbed: Jul 10, 1999 | |
| Lots of people on the mountain, but still before the days of the Base Camp Refugio. My first views of the Cordillera Huayhuash from the summit! | |
| Posted Apr 19, 2006 2:52 am | ||
| atavist | Route climbed: normal route | |
| I spent a total of 7 days on this expedition. I climbed solo. The coca tea sure tasted good when I got back to the high camp after the summit. | |
| Posted Mar 2, 2006 4:20 am | ||
| Trabalon | Normal Route (North Summit) Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2004 | |
| My friend Pau and I climbed north summit of huascaran 6655 m in 2004. We liked to climb south summit, but the normal route of it, its impossible to climb since 2002 I think. The objective of the majority of expedicions is nowadays the summit north. The south summit can be climbed for Escudo route (D+), but is rarely in conditions and it's quite dangerous and heavy. The summer 2004 few expeditions climbed north summit, and only two or three the south summit Escudo. Both very happy with the summit because we climbed alone (with 24 and 22 years old) without guides and porters. A great experience, I explain this history in future to my sons!! | |
| Posted Feb 28, 2006 3:40 pm | ||
| tdoughty | Route Climbed: normal Date Climbed: july 1978 | |
| as an 18 yo on first international climb. partner came down with PE on final summit slopes. Also, rescued Seatlle climber suffering from sever PE from saddle. | |
| Posted Oct 17, 2005 6:07 pm | ||
| davidbruder | Route Climbed: shield Date Climbed: aug 04 | |
| did musho-summit-musho in 24h...(light and fast on this 3800m, eh?!) reach the summit on hard ice in 14.5h.... thanks to the austrians for the tea... david bruder & andres zegers | ||
| Posted Sep 12, 2004 11:32 pm | ||
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