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TrabalonNormal Route (North Summit)  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2004

Trabalon

My friend Pau and I climbed north summit of huascaran 6655 m in 2004.
We liked to climb south summit, but the normal route of it, its impossible to climb since 2002 I think. The objective of the majority of expedicions is nowadays the summit north. The south summit can be climbed for Escudo route (D+), but is rarely in conditions and it's quite dangerous and heavy.
The summer 2004 few expeditions climbed north summit, and only two or three the south summit Escudo.
Both very happy with the summit because we climbed alone (with 24 and 22 years old) without guides and porters.
A great experience, I explain this history in future to my sons!!
Posted Feb 28, 2006 3:40 pm

tdoughtyRoute Climbed: normal Date Climbed: july 1978

tdoughty

as an 18 yo on first international climb. partner came down with PE on final summit slopes. Also, rescued Seatlle climber suffering from sever PE from saddle.
Posted Oct 17, 2005 6:07 pm

davidbruderRoute Climbed: shield Date Climbed: aug 04  Sucess!
did musho-summit-musho in 24h...(light and fast on this 3800m, eh?!)

reach the summit on hard ice in 14.5h....

thanks to the austrians for the tea...

david bruder & andres zegers
Posted Sep 12, 2004 11:32 pm

Miguel Angel PerezRoute Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: July 22, 2004

Miguel Angel Perez

This year was a very bad season, with bad weather, a lot of snow and lots of avalanches. No one reached the south summit via the normal route (at least until the 25 of July). Only two French got to the summit via the Shield Route (El Escudo) and was early in the season.

We got to Camp 1 and that night we heard lots of avalanches. The next day early in the morning we started climbing to Camp 2 but the snow conditions were not good and shortly after we decided to turn back and go down.



It was a great experience and I hope I can go back soon. Huascaran is an impressive, beautiful and huge mountain but should be well respected.

Posted Aug 9, 2004 5:05 am

jstanleyRoute Climbed: normal route Date Climbed: 8 July 1971  Sucess!

jstanley

Thomas Samway and I reached the summit this day by the normal route, while Laurie Skreslet and Larry Derby also reached the summit by the western spur. A more complete account is given in the trip report "The Priest Climbs Huascaran".
Posted Apr 19, 2004 11:22 pm

Nyle WaltonRoute Climbed: Normal from Musho in the Callejon de Huaylas Date Climbed: Early July 1971

Nyle Walton

Three young and eager members of Outbound along with a Catholic priest called Father Tom and and yours untruly established a camp at the base of the Huascaran Glacier just below 16,000 feet. I remained there the next day while the others carried loads and established an intermediate camp amid the crevasses above 17,000 feet. Two returned to base camp while two slept at the intermediate camp. I followed them up the next morning and spent a fitful night with two others crowded in a two-man tent. The next day we carried loads higher up and stashed them just above the Garganta and below the 20,000-foot saddle between Huascaran Norte and Huascaran Sur. We then descended back to the intermediate camp for another crowded night of three burly men in the two-man tent. The next day we ascended again with our tent on our backs toward the Garganta. On the steepest part, a strap on my rucksack broke. This demoralized me so much that all I could think about was having a big beefsteak and beer in Huaraz.

I decided to forsake Huascaran then and there, being in no mood to share a two-man tent with two others for another uncomfortable and sleepless night. Cautiously I descended the glacier alone, pausing frequently to take pictures of the Callejon de Huaylas from high up on what is probably the most greatest extent of glacial ice within the tropics. Very visible was the track of the tremendous avalanche (aluvion) dislodged by the May 31, 1970 earthquake from Huascaran Norte that had swept down a ravine for 13,000 feet and scoured away the second largest town in the valley, Yungay, killing most of its 20,000 inhabitants before it came to a scouring halt at the base of the Cordillera Negra and continued as a mud flow down the Rio Santa past Caras and through the Canon del Pato toward the sea.

As I was dining on steak and beer in Huaraz three days later, my four sunburned and beaming companions appeared and announced their triumph. I had mixed feelings of regret and envy. I consoled myself by acknowledging the fact that I had contributed to the beginnings of a successful climb of the highest peak in the tropics.

For an full account of the climb, I refer you to Jonathan Stanley's log entry just above mine. A group picture of the five initial members of the party and Huascaran from Musho before the climb and another view of climbers on the lower glacier of Huascaran from base camp are included in the photo section of Huascaran Sur main page.
Posted Nov 1, 2003 10:01 am

TodoVerticalRoute Climbed: The Shield Route Date Climbed: Aug. 1999

TodoVertical

We left from Camp 1 to follow the Shield Route. At about 6.500 m we joined the trail used on the normal route and only one of us three continued to the summit. We were too tired to reach the summit. Sat down and waited 3 hours for our friend to came back. With our arses freezing cold, and happy for completing the route got back to Camp 1 just before dark.
Posted Dec 4, 2002 1:45 pm

maxRoute Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: July 1999  Sucess!
After 7 hours ascending from Gaganta we reached th top of Peru - breathless and happy.
Posted May 13, 2002 12:58 pm

MountaindocRoute Climbed: Garganta Date Climbed: August, 29th, 2000  Sucess!
What a huge pile of ice...

I climbed with M. Trewhellar (thanks Matt !) after a series of major accidents (ice-avalanches) in the Garganta-icefall ! Only speed helps to reduce risk on that mountain! Take care and be quick !
Posted Apr 5, 2002 2:03 am

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