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Huayna Potosi Climber's Log

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Cloud OceanFast and light!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2014

Cloud Ocean

Left at 7p.m. from La Paz, drove to the ~4700m trailhead, slept for a few hours, and then started hiking after midnight. Hiked to the high camp carrying plastic boots, ax, crampons, and took a break for hot tea in the high camp refuge.
From high camp we summitted in exactly four hours, the first ones on top. We were actually a bit too fast, and we waited some thirty minutes just below the summit ridge, hiding from the freezing wind and waiting for the sun to rise.

The Bergshrund crossing involved a ~70 degree and ~5m climb up hard ice, and the summit ridge was extremely exposed - don't underestimate this one! My liner gloves were stolen in the refuge while on the way down... keep a close eye on your gear.
Posted Feb 20, 2015 11:17 pm

golearyNormal Route Impassable  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Feb 2, 2015
The normal route (along the exposed knife edge ridge) was too dangerous to continue but luckily a route had already been opened along the large slope to the summit.
Posted Feb 2, 2015 9:36 pm

mdouAccessible 6000m  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Mar 15, 2014


Short ride away from La Paz, comfortable refuges, beautiful white snow, 10/10 would climb again.

An easy walk if you're already acclimatized. I left La Paz at the end of the afternoon, had dinner in one of the refuge, rested there until 1 or 2 AM, reached the top before sunrise. Great views with some clouds.
Posted Dec 15, 2014 3:24 pm

blueshadeFirst time to 6000m  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 28, 2014


A nice climb. A bit interesting on the final summit ridge, being on snow and rock, but otherwise no problem. First ones on top, despite slowing down the pace so as to not arrive too early. Nice "little" peak!
Posted Sep 11, 2014 9:55 am

boisedocreally fun climb  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2014


we climbed from the high refugio at 5200meters. A good bit of variety with a short, steep icy pitch and then of course the final ridge line with a little bit of exposure. Not overly crowded but definitely tough passing people high up on the ridge. Plenty hard work at that altitude. My GPS gave an altitude of 20045ft so I'm going to count it as my first 20000ft peak
Posted Aug 17, 2014 10:24 pm

richardpattisonNormal route
Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2013


Whole trip was just 24 hours, being dropped-off & picked-up by taxi at midday. We set-up a high camp on a snow shoulder about 100m vertical above the hut, lovely sunset views.
Posted Jul 29, 2014 3:32 pm

jasperreedSweet climb!  Sucess!


Climbed with travel tracks in 2011. One of my first climbs and still probably equal favourite (with cabeza del condor). Amazing views of titikaka the altiplano and the amazon
Posted May 14, 2014 12:34 pm

matthias.pabstNormal Route in Summer  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 10, 2014


Mixed conditions in Bolivian Summer. First night was light rain into the morning but cleared up before the ascent to high camp started. Started walking at 0200 not too cold but a bit windy. Started snowing a bit later, but got great views from top.
Posted Apr 14, 2014 5:52 pm

ChrisJahn Normal Route   Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 15, 2009


Gorgeous mountain with much to offer. Jaw dropping West face as seen from the road to Condoriri is something to behold. The North on a clear day is spectacular if you are on Tarija or Pequeno Alpamayo. East face or French route is stark and elegant. The normal route is usually crowded and problems arise on the summit ridge. Late in the season there is rockfall danger from the ridge and traversing below it should be early and fast.
Posted Jan 9, 2014 2:33 pm

squick14hr Night Flight  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 20, 2013


Had a flight out of La Paz the next morning and decided to get this before leaving, so had supper and then jumped in a taxi. Arrived at the base of the mountain around 10 and set off for the summit. Waited at one of the refuges for an hour until other people got up then headed up ahead of them and arrived just after sunrise. Back down at the bottom by 10 and made my flight with time to spare but very tired!
Posted Oct 1, 2013 6:26 am

alishaNormal Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 18, 2012


Nice climb, but too many people.
Posted Jun 15, 2013 4:14 pm

whatdoIknownormal route  Sucess!


It was a nice climb
Posted May 28, 2013 11:04 am

jswitzkyFirst (and only) 6,000m peak  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2001
Highest point thus far on resume. Beautiful seeing the sun rise over the amazon basin to the east. Spectacular summit!
Posted Aug 12, 2012 1:43 pm

starybaranNormal Route  Sucess!
Very nice aclimatization peak. Cca 4,5 h up, 1,5 h down. I prefer to start late, you could have a summit for yourself.
Posted Aug 6, 2012 2:13 pm

swamytough climb  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Mar 10, 2012


Yay !! the guide was pushy and kept wanting to turn around several times. I had to beg, argue, etc but finally made it to the top in about 6.5 hrs.
Posted May 28, 2012 9:54 am

Nyle WaltonRe: Another Nice Day

Nyle Walton

When I climbed Huayna Potosi fifty years before you did, our party was practically the only group to climb it in 1958. Air travel has made this mountain much more accessible to many people who otherwise would never climb it.
Posted Apr 6, 2012 4:30 pm

nbaisburdFan and fast  Sucess!


SP member and myself climbed it in one go from La Paz a taxi to base camp and made the summit a few hours later.
Posted Dec 13, 2011 6:15 pm

cabouckaert1Fun Mountain  Sucess!


Climbed with 7 friends via the normal route. Reasonably long but not too difficult. Not very technical but some impressive crevaces to cover! Amazing sunrise on the summit and view over La Paz!
Posted Oct 15, 2011 11:04 am

andre hangaardA great day  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 31, 2011

andre hangaard

Me and my friend Mark van Gessel (HOL) spent three days in the majestetic presence of Huyana Potosi. Base camp in the nice and clean "Casa Blanca" refugio and the second night at the "Rock camp". Very well aclimatized we enjoyed the normal route in excellent conditions. Left the high camp at 02:15 and summited at 07:15. Only three more parties on the move that night/day.
Originallly our plan was to camp at Camp Argentino but were adviced not to do that due to the risk of theft while leaving gear behind...
Posted Sep 8, 2011 5:05 pm

bighornmonkey6000M dayhike  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2011


Left La Paz in the morning. There is a 6:00am bus from El Alto (1 block from Plaza Ballivian). Arrived at the trailhead around 7:30am and decided to go for the summit that same day...so we stashed the overnight gear in the rocks and pushed on. Passed by the high altitude hut at 9:30am and reached the summit at 2:00pm. So a TRAILHEAD TO SUMMIT in 5h45min. It pays to be well acclimated! 8th 6000M peak this summer!
Posted Aug 29, 2011 11:01 am

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