Huayna Potosi Climber's Log
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|gilles debray||Route Climbed: normal route Date Climbed: May 28, 2003|
|"We just summited Huayna Potosi this morning, we contacted Bolivian Journeys by internet, a bolivian company highly recommended, now we know why, the whole organization was good. Luis Palli our guide did a great job. Contact Bolivian Journeys at: www.bolivianjourneys.org"|
|Posted May 29, 2003 8:11 am|
|Vinny||Route Climbed: via noraml Date Climbed: May 12, 2003|
|We camped 2 nights at the dirty but not too busy Campo Roca 5000m. It was my first time climbing at such an altitude. Robin and I were stymied by illness- estomagos gringos- maybe something we ate, but we took turns not feeling quite right.|
I puked my way up the easy part to 5500m before realizing it wasn't going to happen.
Great weather and snow conditions allowed 6 summiters (including one solo Chamoniard) the day previous, but all in all 50% success rate over 2 days due to altitude problems alone. Most people seemed to be using guides.
La proxima vez!
days later I was admitted to hospital with a Respiratory infection (4strains), gastro-enteritis (actually salmonella) and resultant severe dehydration. I recommend the health srevices of clinica del sur should you need ém. Also beware petty theft (we had a backpack stolen when our guard was down) or course. Be forewarned! Besides sanitation, Bolivia is wonderful! Enjoy it!
|Posted May 12, 2003 5:21 pm|
|brankoi||Route Climbed: La vía de los Franceses Date Climbed: May 20th, 1998 |
Date Climbed: May 20, 1998
|Branko Ivanek (Slovenia) and Stefan Helfenstein (Schweiz) did the "La vía de los Franceses" on Huayna Potosí East Face, AD+, 55deg., 300m from the bergschround in the straight push from Zongo Pass (4770m). We were up and down in 22 hours. |
They took two hours from Campamento Argentino to the base of the Route for there are several crevasses and we had to climb 10m high serac (80deg.)
|Posted Nov 3, 2002 12:48 am|
|Mathias Zehring||Route Climbed: normal route Date Climbed: June 11th 1998|
|with a guided tour from germany. After a very cold night at Argentino camp it was very convenient at the mountain with almost no wind. In this El Nino year there was so few snow that most of the final ridge could be walked easily in the rocks just beneath the snow ridge.|
|Posted Sep 27, 2002 9:47 am|
|Wyoming Bob||Route Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: August 1, 2001|
|Climbed with group from Colorado Mountain School. Two three person rope teams, all summited. See report for text and photos if interested.|
|Posted Sep 15, 2002 8:09 pm|
|spyder550||Route Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: 9 August, 2002|
|Very easy climb until last 100 meters. It is somewhere near 50 degrees but at altitude it can be tiring. Mountain is very popular so stay away if you aren't into crowded areas. Great, easy, high altitude climb otherwise.|
|Posted Aug 13, 2002 1:13 pm|
|Uli||Route Climbed: Normal Route (summit face alternative) Date Climbed: July 23, 2002|
|Fortunately the horrible storm we had two days before arriving on Zongo Pass calmed down. On summit day the conditions were perfect - and the mountain was crowded... !|
|Posted Aug 8, 2002 2:30 pm|
|ClimbLer||Route Climbed: normal route (south-east buttress) Date Climbed: August 20-21, 2001|
|We left La Paz and reached the base of Huayna Potosi within two hours. during the drive to the mountain, clouds began to quickly form over the summit and by the time we had parked, the mountain was completely covered by the growing storm. we proceeded to climb up a prominant ridge that ran up next to the large, fractured glacier that flows at the base of the Southern face. from the ridge we ascended a short class 4 wall at 16,000 ft. Above the ridge however, visibility dropped to about 15 feet with winds reaching 40 mph. The route led up and over the wall onto a sloping snow field that wrapped around a fairly prominent rock arete. As the arete tapered off, the route led over a small shoulder upon which the high camp sat at 17,500 ft. |
The night exhibited strong winds with gusts up to 50 mph and unfortunatly, 3 feet of fresh snow. These conditions immediatly halted all attempts for the summit that morning and forced us down without ever allowing us a clear view of our initial objective.
All the more reason to return to Bolivia and make another attempt at the mountain.
|Posted Jun 30, 2002 8:17 pm|
|El Tigre Valderrama||Route Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: July 1999|
|Got there afte one week in la Paz, very nice and very beautiful. Took three days to get to the summit, as I was aclimatizing. Could not make the last part of the ridge. I climbed it with some Brazilians friends. but One piece of advice: check the Tikimany Peak. Its views from the Huayna are awesome.|
|Posted Jun 15, 2002 10:02 pm|
|felix||Route Climbed: Normal with east face variant Date Climbed: August 1997|
|Climbed normal route without taking the summit ridge. Took the east face. Perfect weather. Great view to Lake Titicaca. Had problems because of missing acclimatisation and because of not sufficient water.|
|Posted Mar 28, 2002 5:03 am|
|jonas||Route Climbed: normal route Date Climbed: april and may 2001|
|The first time I did was my first time ever wearing crampons and firs time above 5300m. My guide and I started out from La Paz at midnight reached Bc. 0130 and we left at app.0230 I don't know what time we summited but it was a little late 09-1000 I think. Nothing could be seen due to fog.We were back at Bc by 1300.|
I returned a week later with a friend and we spend the night a little lower than Plaza Argentinadue to "sleep low climb high" reached the summt early and the view was spectacular. Originally we wanted to do another line but there was too much snow. It would have been possible later in the season.
|Posted Feb 13, 2002 5:08 am|