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Huayna Potosi Climber's Log

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stevedNormal route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Dec 10, 2016
After looking at a variety of companies, took the three day option with 'Refugios Huayna Potosi', recommended, good value. Second day, set off from high camp (5300 metres) at 1.15 am, arrived at the summit at 5.45 am, left at 6.00 am and back at high camp for approx. 7.35 am.
Posted Apr 20, 2017 12:06 pm

seancauFirst 6000er!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Dec 13, 2015


Not the recommended climbing season, but we were lucky and caught a break in the weather - beautiful clear summit day. Did a 3day/2night organised tour from La Paz with the cheapest company we could find on Calle Sagarnaga, the guides, food & equipment were all adequate & we all summited. The hike up wasn't too difficult until the final summit push when the gradient became much steeper.
Posted Sep 2, 2016 5:30 pm

cinnamonletterFrench Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2016


I summited on the normal route in 2012 and wanted something technical this time. The French Route is a beautiful and, if conditions support, a relatively easy climb. Having acclimatized on Sajama and, as a beginner ice wall climber, climbing with a guide, and the fact that the ice was covered with well compacted snow, made it almost a leisurely walk.
Posted Jul 28, 2016 10:04 pm

HumbertoJune Normal Route first then French Route  Sucess!


We were acclimatizing and knowing we would stay in the hut saved us from carrying the tents. Pretty cozy with water, stoves and decent bunks. We rested till 4ish and set off along the normal route. Straightforward if a bit windy.
Coming down we had alot of time to rest and hydrate at the hut for the evening's push to tackle the wall of the French Route. We gave an area of potential ice fall a wide berth on our approach and started climbing just as the sun was appearing. Very fun and exihilirating for my first time on something so steep. We took our time placing screws and pickets. (Now bareley 5 climbs later I realize that we all could have easily solo'd up the wall just as safely.)
Because of the time we topped of on the wall and didn't hit the real summit that day but I still felt great about the climb!!
Posted Jun 26, 2016 2:15 pm

Nader1Normal route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2009


Good day above 6000m
Posted Mar 22, 2016 5:14 pm

IantexasFun Climb  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 6, 2015


Climbing the ice wall at 18K+ feet is I think the craziest thing I've done in my life. Esp. rappelling down it after the summit.
Posted Aug 20, 2015 12:24 am

teddycricket83skied down  Sucess!


skied down on junky gear rented in La Paz, but lots of fun!
Posted Aug 9, 2015 2:27 am

rocky29octNice Climb  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 28, 2015


amazing climb... had to climb 25 ft ice wall and experience an avalanche triggered by ice serac during that climb.. lucky the line of fall was not in our way...

great view from top...
Posted Jul 12, 2015 1:36 pm

mgware6000 meters club
Date Climbed: Apr 24, 2014


This is how I lost my virginity to the 6000 meter club. It's one of the cheapest and safest way to do it. AND, its the best way to acclimatize for the taller stuff like illimani.
Posted Jun 30, 2015 4:43 pm

Cloud OceanFast and light!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2014

Cloud Ocean

Left at 7p.m. from La Paz, drove to the ~4700m trailhead, slept for a few hours, and then started hiking after midnight. Hiked to the high camp carrying plastic boots, ax, crampons, and took a break for hot tea in the high camp refuge.
From high camp we summitted in exactly four hours, the first ones on top. We were actually a bit too fast, and we waited some thirty minutes just below the summit ridge, hiding from the freezing wind and waiting for the sun to rise.

The Bergshrund crossing involved a ~70 degree and ~5m climb up hard ice, and the summit ridge was extremely exposed - don't underestimate this one! My liner gloves were stolen in the refuge while on the way down... keep a close eye on your gear.
Posted Feb 20, 2015 11:17 pm

golearyNormal Route Impassable  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Feb 2, 2015
The normal route (along the exposed knife edge ridge) was too dangerous to continue but luckily a route had already been opened along the large slope to the summit.
Posted Feb 2, 2015 9:36 pm

mdouAccessible 6000m  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Mar 15, 2014


Short ride away from La Paz, comfortable refuges, beautiful white snow, 10/10 would climb again.

An easy walk if you're already acclimatized. I left La Paz at the end of the afternoon, had dinner in one of the refuge, rested there until 1 or 2 AM, reached the top before sunrise. Great views with some clouds.
Posted Dec 15, 2014 3:24 pm

blueshadeFirst time to 6000m  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 28, 2014


A nice climb. A bit interesting on the final summit ridge, being on snow and rock, but otherwise no problem. First ones on top, despite slowing down the pace so as to not arrive too early. Nice "little" peak!
Posted Sep 11, 2014 9:55 am

boisedocreally fun climb  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2014


we climbed from the high refugio at 5200meters. A good bit of variety with a short, steep icy pitch and then of course the final ridge line with a little bit of exposure. Not overly crowded but definitely tough passing people high up on the ridge. Plenty hard work at that altitude. My GPS gave an altitude of 20045ft so I'm going to count it as my first 20000ft peak
Posted Aug 17, 2014 10:24 pm

richardpattisonNormal route
Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2013


Whole trip was just 24 hours, being dropped-off & picked-up by taxi at midday. We set-up a high camp on a snow shoulder about 100m vertical above the hut, lovely sunset views.
Posted Jul 29, 2014 3:32 pm

jasperreedSweet climb!  Sucess!


Climbed with travel tracks in 2011. One of my first climbs and still probably equal favourite (with cabeza del condor). Amazing views of titikaka the altiplano and the amazon
Posted May 14, 2014 12:34 pm

matthias.pabstNormal Route in Summer  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 10, 2014


Mixed conditions in Bolivian Summer. First night was light rain into the morning but cleared up before the ascent to high camp started. Started walking at 0200 not too cold but a bit windy. Started snowing a bit later, but got great views from top.
Posted Apr 14, 2014 5:52 pm

ChrisJahn Normal Route   Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 15, 2009


Gorgeous mountain with much to offer. Jaw dropping West face as seen from the road to Condoriri is something to behold. The North on a clear day is spectacular if you are on Tarija or Pequeno Alpamayo. East face or French route is stark and elegant. The normal route is usually crowded and problems arise on the summit ridge. Late in the season there is rockfall danger from the ridge and traversing below it should be early and fast.
Posted Jan 9, 2014 2:33 pm

squick14hr Night Flight  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 20, 2013


Had a flight out of La Paz the next morning and decided to get this before leaving, so had supper and then jumped in a taxi. Arrived at the base of the mountain around 10 and set off for the summit. Waited at one of the refuges for an hour until other people got up then headed up ahead of them and arrived just after sunrise. Back down at the bottom by 10 and made my flight with time to spare but very tired!
Posted Oct 1, 2013 6:26 am

alishaNormal Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 18, 2012


Nice climb, but too many people.
Posted Jun 15, 2013 4:14 pm

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