Start the approach from Conrad Meadows. Either hike past Surprise lake or take the right fork of the loop trail. At the highest point in the loop trail you will find a trail, and a creek bed, that head NW up into the basin below Curtis Gilbert. Camp anywhere here in the meadow.
From your base camp head south to approach the Mead Glacier.
Climb Mead Glacier Variation 1 as listed in the Becky Guide. Stay climbers right on the glacier. Since the glacier is melting out fast this may be on rock. Climb just below the Conrad/Mead glaciers saddle. Cross right to left on the glacier above the steep cliffs below while skirting the rock outcrops above. Cross the glacier until you can take a 30 degree snow slope up. Your goal here is the saddle between the snow dome and the ridge line to the summit. Kick steps or crampon based on the snow conditions. Climb to where the slope angle decreases. Skirt the rock outcrop to the left and again climb the 30 degree snow slope to the saddle. If coming back this way drop your gear here and take only what you need.
From the saddle hike the scree slope staying close to the ridge line. As soon as possible, maybe 100 ft., scramble to the top of the rock ridge. 4th class scramble the top of the ridge line skirting any trouble either right or left. Stay on the rock ridge until you are stopped. Down climb the west side of ridge and hike scree slopes to the summit pinnacle. Scramble to the top.
Helmet, poles, ice axe. You may want a rope since there is a significant drop off east of the ridge. Can be high exposure in places.
Also the weather can be very poor so take shell, gloves, etc...
This is one of the most beautiful places I have been. I highly recommend it.