Friend and I climbed this route - but didn't summit due to weather - in an early season snowstorm. We walked in all the way from the highway, climbed the route and descended in 48 hours. Snowshoes and a shovel were essential pieces of equipment as we had to do all of our own routefinding on the way in and out, and actually tunneled through the cornice at the top of the couloir. The ice cliff, bergschrund, and couloir were all in fine shape (not too hard and icy yet) and fun. This route has got it all and lots of adventure.
Surprisingly good conditions... Date Climbed: Jun 18, 2007
Bergschrud quite impressive, but fun to negotiate. For the most part the ice was very solid and plastic, but certainly more challenging than it was on my attempt earlier in the season! Brought a set of small tri-cams for protecting on the adjacent walls, which worked well.
with pals Sean and Booth. We hiked in Thur afternoon, spent Friday in the tent waiting out rain, climbed Sat and had a leisurely hike out Sun. It was a bit late in the season, but we found some sneaky ways past the 'shrund and didn't ever have to touch rock (until the ridge)