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jm141302Long day  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Nov 18, 2012


Started at 3500m about 1-2 km past El Chaupi and followed the river through the trees and went north around the smaller rocky hill at the eastern foot of Norte. From there, we went straight up the sand and met the scree/sand route where it turns uphill. There was some snow, but only in the shadows. We had a beautifully clear morning but got covered in clouds halfway up the sandy slope at around 11:00. No rain or snow. Returned via the scree/sand route and back down the road to where we started. 11 hours total. We had a bit of a run in with the ranger because of the new 5000m rule. We had to convince him that we were just going to the refuge and no farther.
Posted Nov 19, 2012 12:49 pm

paulparkieCouldn't see a damn thing  Sucess!


Cold, windy and cloudy. Paso de La Muerte was the only sketchy bit I remember - but there was snow, so it wasn't too bad.
Posted Nov 12, 2012 4:52 pm

ajberryNormal route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Feb 10, 2010


My second time up. Thank god for early morning clear skies...
Posted Oct 27, 2012 5:56 pm

HomestarhikerA day well spent  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2012


I climbed via the normal route with a few members of a local mountaineering club. There was some ice in places, but we had pretty good conditions overall and the route was easier than I expected it would be.
Posted Sep 4, 2012 8:20 pm

schlegerFun in the sun
Date Climbed: Jun 18, 2012


Spent a night at the refugio with my daughter and Guide Segundo. We had recently summited Pasochoa and Corazon and needed to spend some time at or above 15k in preparation for Cotopaxi. Weather conditions could not have been better. Partly sunny / light wind. There was some snow in shadowy spots, perhaps 1/2 an inch. Scrambling was done on dry exposed rock which offered good nooks and crannies to grab hold of. There were a couple of spots with significant exposure and being roped to an experienced guide eased any concerns I had. The three of us occupied and essentially took up all the space on the tiny summit. That was cool. This was our favorite peak due to the challenging scrambling and nice weather. Also, the altitude was not affecting us, yet.....Next Cotopaxi!
Posted Jun 22, 2012 12:56 am

DanielWandsneiderfun weekend climb  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 1, 2011


My two buddies planned for the Matterhorn, but after not getting the stand-by flight to europe, we flew down to Ecuador and climbed Iliniza Norte. Wish we could have done Sur, but Norte was fun all the same.
Posted Feb 17, 2012 10:43 am

chicagoskyA good slog in windy conditions  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Dec 28, 2011


Very windy at the summit, almost got blown off a few times but was an interesting climb. Had to crampon up and use rope for a few sections of the climb
Posted Jan 4, 2012 8:37 am

MMclimbhighFrom Refugio  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Nov 29, 2011


Stayed in the Refugio for acclimating purposes. Climbed Norte at dawn. Some of the best views of the Northern Andes!
Posted Dec 19, 2011 4:41 pm

mreiter1Success  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2009


Standard Route
Posted Dec 11, 2011 2:03 pm

brotaEasy walk  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Dec 7, 2011


At night with moonlight hiking from El Chaupi next to the cottage in about 4 hours (they wanted me to pay $5 for camping next to it!). At 5.30 am starting the hike up. Surprisingly easy walk (almost no snow on the way) and in 1:15 hrs with slow pace first one on the top.
Posted Dec 9, 2011 5:05 pm

SocorroPummelled  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Nov 28, 2011


Spent the night at La Llovizna... great price on lodging but dinner was a bit steep. Our organization required us to get a guide for this trip so he met us at the hostal in the morning - at least transportation was included. We began at La Virgencita as clouds began rolling in. We decided going up and down the direct route because the guide thought it safer with my friendĀ“s experience. The steep sandy section is brutal! By the time we got to rock, it began hailing a little bit...and this quickly turned into large hail, and thunder began rolling in around us. We hurried up the scrambling section on wet rock as the thunder got closer and closer, then saw the summit cross with immense relief. We began descending a minute later on extra slippy rock covered in a layer of snow...sure made things really interesting. This was a pretty exciting summit for us with such crazy weather.
Posted Nov 30, 2011 11:45 am

huntersleeSuccess  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Dec 5, 2010


Will definitely hit Iliniza Sur the next time I'm there, probably hit Norte again as we had no view from the summit...good aclimatization peak for Cotopaxi and Chimborazo.
Posted Oct 23, 2011 9:45 pm

karoreBeautiful Climb  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Dec 29, 2010
It was beautiful day I really enjoyed the climb and the views were fantastic
Posted Oct 8, 2011 11:39 am

SenadRNice scrambling  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 25, 2011


Nice climb prior to Cotopaxi.
Posted Jan 29, 2011 7:49 pm

radsonAcclimitzation scramble  Sucess!


Went to the Illnizas as prep for Cotopaxi and Chimbo
Posted Jan 29, 2011 2:30 am

tmfaust21Snow on Norte?
Date Climbed: Jan 2, 2011


All the climbing book say there isn't snow on Norte. They may be right most of the time but there was quite a bit when I tried it. Only made it to the Paso de la Muerte and had to turn around cause I didn't bring an ice axe, crampons, or rope (and I only had 1.5 hrs to get back to the parking lot to meet my ride, made it down though)
Posted Jan 27, 2011 6:56 pm

Zytanormal route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Feb 9, 2010


windy and rainy weather, after drinking tea in refuge i got serious stomach illness, but I made it to the top.
Posted Jan 26, 2011 12:42 pm

IndayMal Suerte  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 18, 2011


Parofes and I made a good effort, but he got turned back by the risk of snow, ice, and rock falls as he described. It should be noted that the ridge had fresh snow and ice, making the Paso del Muerte pretty dangerous. I summited after waiting for the other bumbeling crew to get out of my way. I am not sure what the heck they were up to, putting protection in on the descent to the far right of the Paso del Muerte, but I guess better safe than sorry...
Posted Jan 19, 2011 10:11 am

Boriss AndeanRe: Mal Suerte

Boriss Andean

Congratulations on reaching the summit.

Im sorry the "bumbeling crew" got on your way during your ascent. But I know they are very well trainned in taking care of their clients.

I know it could be irritating when we have to wait in line for our turn or yield to another party while they are trying to lower down one of their clients, who wasn't feeling comfy down-climbing "La Canaleta" or "Paso de La Muerte". But we always need to be patience and just wait in line.

Rushing somebody up through expossed passes could cause fatal accidents sometimes. That's why, we as guides need to place sometimes protection and set up anchors in order to take care of the people we are guiding to.

You are right, it's better to be safe than sorry.

My friends (guides) were placing protection in order to avoid a fatal accident, like the one that occured last Friday (Jan.28.2011) in the very same place described by you above.

Nothing personal guys, I met with you'all a couple times up in Cotopaxi and you seem nice and fun folks to hang out with. Just wanted to let you know why this "bumbeling crews" set up these protections up high.

In the other hand, maybe the guides weren't clear enough, unpolite or sounded rude. They also should find a way of yielding other climbers up or down. Kind of hard in a bottleneck, though.

Posted Jan 30, 2011 7:18 pm

IndayRe: Mal Suerte


Very true man, and a very appropriate reminder. What I meant by bumbeling was the manner by which they were placing the protection: giant swings of the ice axe, throwing snow and ice all over the place that went on to slide down over a face, raining down on a the ascent line. If they had gone further out right to set the pro, more directly above their descent line, this all may have turned out differently.

But I agree Boris. As guides, they made a safety call, and that is paramount over a summit push. Thanks for the re-framing of the issue.
Posted Feb 20, 2011 12:54 am

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