Illiniza Norte (Iliniza Norte) Climber's Log
[ Sign the Climber's Log ]
|Ario||Route Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: June 8th, 2005|
|Committed trek (UIAA II, 70 degrees, + 475m), with Suzy (UK) et Scott (USA), good weather. No more permanent snow left unlike what is mentioned on some maps...|
|Posted Nov 8, 2005 11:52 pm|
|edl||Route Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: Nov. 98|
|We did this as a warm up for Cotopoxi. Nice day climb.|
|Posted Sep 29, 2005 6:23 pm|
|C.Wagner||Route Climbed: Normal route from La Virgen Date Climbed: July 13, 2005|
|Spent the night at the end of the 4 WD track (la Virgen ?) - camp site|
Start at 0500
Hut at 0800 (short break)
Summit at 1015
Cloudy, no view
Some snow at the summit
Rock climbing at the end. Take a rope for descent
A good acclimatisation for Cotopaxi
|Posted Aug 22, 2005 2:31 pm|
|mpa||Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: July 8, 2005|
|Nice climb in the morning after a sleepless night.|
We could see Cotopaxi and Chimborazo although Iliniza-Sur was in clouds.
|Posted Aug 11, 2005 5:31 am|
|Cautious||Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: January 2005|
|Nice climb, no technical difficulties to speak of. Coming down was fun.|
|Posted Jun 24, 2005 9:27 am|
|andre hangaard||Route Climbed: Standard route Date Climbed: 03 May 2005|
|Great climb on a perfect day.|
We started early in the morning. Beautiful scenery with Cotopaxi and Chimborazo.
Conditions were excellent - no snow and dry rock. The Paso de Muerte was a piece of cake.
|Posted May 26, 2005 5:26 pm|
|Andinistaloco||Route Climbed: standard Date Climbed: winter '99-00|
|Good climb - and also nice as an acclimitizer for the higher ones. The Paso de Muerte's a little funky but not too technical in good conditions. Suerte!|
|Posted Mar 3, 2005 12:56 am|
|ripper333||Route Climbed: normal route Date Climbed: dec 2004|
|approached from way down yonder in el chaupi. great hostel to stay is hacienda san jose.. spent the nite and pushed to |
the summit the next day in horrendous weather..
summitted.. and headed all the way back to the
hacienda.. very long day.. and it rained like
crazy all day. good experience all the same.
|Posted Feb 15, 2005 6:20 pm|
|esugi||Route Climbed: January 24, 2005 Date Climbed: Normal Route|
|I feel for you cp0915 (Courtney)!|
Climbed with cp0915, Thomas, and Brett. The Nuevos Horizontes refugio is pretty crummy. The fumes from the stoves going all day long was unbearable. No ventilation what so ever in the hut. Beautiful views of sur as we were climbing up norte.
We will have to go back and climb Sur soon!
|Posted Jan 31, 2005 7:29 pm|
|cp0915||Route Climbed: normal Date Climbed: jan 24, 2005|
|after a good snowfall, norte turned out to be an excellent mixed climb challenge...considerably harder than in dry conditions...fixed ropes (comforting, but rather unnecessary) were installed at el paseo de la muerte by a guided group ahead of us on the route...the so-called 5.3 summit gully is no more than 4th class on good rock...this was fixed by yet another guided group ahead of us and was also rather unnecessary, though i can appreciate the caution the guides had for their clients...incredible vistas of sur, antisana, cayambe, cotopaxi and chimborazo from the summit ... we had originally intended to do sur on this date, however, the low visibility and crappy conditions we encountered when the alarm went off sent us to norte instead....little did i know at the time, but the sinus infection i woke up with the morning of norte would mean it would be the last ecuadorian summit i would get on this trip... i didnt even attempt coto, chimbo, etc...now i hafta go back|
|Posted Jan 25, 2005 11:38 am|
|bluescrummachine||Route Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: December 2004|
|Camped in La Virgen. On the next day, at 5 a.m., directly to the summit - passing Ilinizas-hut. Sunny day with few wind. Surrounding mountains were mostly wrapped in clouds. The route is more interesting in the summit region, because of some rock climbing. A rope could be very helpful!|
|Posted Jan 13, 2005 6:26 am|
|maxcz||Route Climbed: Date Climbed: February 2003|
|Got lost on the way up in terrible fog and storm, still managed to get to within 100m of summit from where we could not go higher (I guess we did not find the start of the Paso de Muerte). Hence, if the weather is bad (which it often is on the Illinizas), then a guide might be a good investment (something we obviously only realised afterwards).|
|Posted Oct 17, 2004 6:32 am|
|jstanley||Route Climbed: normal route Date Climbed: 12June2004|
|It was extremely windy and clouds covered the peak, depositing ice crystals on the exposed rocks, when my son Thomas and I climbed this peak. The climb to the summit from the hut took 2 hrs 20 minutes including time spent backtracking and route finding. The climb itself was not difficult, but the conditions were discouraging. There was no view from the summit.|
|Posted Sep 1, 2004 5:38 pm|
|big_g||Route Climbed: standard |
Date Climbed: May 30, 2004
|A little rough in low visibility with some snow and ice present but 8/9 made it to the summit. Did it as a day hike and skipped the hut stay. Fun climb but wished we had some views.|
First of many times up this mountain.
|Posted May 31, 2004 10:50 pm|
|edouet||Route Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: December 05, 2003|
|Camped at the end of the road, at 4000m ( place called "La Virgen" ) .|
Stunning views of Cotopaxi, Corazon, Ruminahui at sunset .
Very nice and easy walk/scramble to the top of Iliniza Norte in 4 hours from la Virgen, via Ilinizas Hut, on the following day, on dry rocks and screes, with J.Mesias ( guide ) and A. Jackson .
Perfect day to take pictures of Iliniza Sur .
Way back : screes of North Face
|Posted Jan 7, 2004 11:54 am|
|Tom Fralich||Route Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: December 18, 2003|
|Very fun, but short route (we reached the summit in just 1.5 hours from the hut). Sadly, we had no views during the climb and never even saw the mountain during our 3 days stay at the hut. There was some snow on the route but still no need for crampons. The so-called Paso del Muerto was no problem, neither the gully below the summit (4th class). We also hoped to climb Iliniza Sur and explored the route as far as the entrance to the glacier, including marking it with wands. In the end, we decided not to attempt the route though, since we never had a clear view of the mountain which would certainly have created route-finding problems. We were also concerned about too much unconsolidated snow on the route (tricky descent, avalanches). We left, planning to return later in the trip for another attempt. Great acclimatization trip though and the hut keeper Fernando was very friendly. We returned and climbed Iliniza Sur on January 2, 2004 (see Summit Log).|
|Posted Dec 20, 2003 7:54 pm|
|dloring||Route Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: May 26,2003|
|Easy hike in the fog from the refugio. Good acclimization for bigger, better things. Just too bad the weather didn't cooperate for Sur.|
|Posted Jun 10, 2003 8:47 pm|
|Rockhopper||Route Climbed: Normal route Date Climbed: may 16, 2003|
|Started at La Virgen with Pepe (our guide) and my wife (and climbing partner) Astrid. Since we had climbed Guagua Pichincha for acclimatisation, the walk to the refugio Nuevos Horizontes was easy. Reached the refugio in 2,5 hours. We were very surprised when our friend Mauricio arrived at the refugio later in the afternoon. He was also guiding two (American) climbers to the summit of Iliniza Norte. It was really good to see him. |
After a cold and restless night we started climbing at 6.15 am. Astrid had a terrible headache and wasn't feeling well.
Visibility was poor. Only once we got a glimpse of Corazon through the clouds. After crossing the southern slope of scree and sand, we reached the ridge at about 4900 m. At this point Astrid decided to turn around. Mauricio accompanied her.
On the ridge we were exposed to a strong wind. Also the icy rocks made the climb more exciting. Decided to use one fixed rope on the icy rocks in the couloir just below the summit. No visibility at the summit: I am still wondering whether Iliniza Sur really exists or not..........
Reached the refugio after 4,5 hours.
|Posted Jun 3, 2003 2:36 pm|
|Jerry L||Date Climbed: February 19, 2003|
|Turned back at 15,500' as my son became nervous with the exposure and the bad footing on the loose rocks. It was his first climb with this type of terrain and altitude.|
|Posted Mar 6, 2003 4:42 am|
|Zhenya77||Route Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: December 27, 2002|
|It was the first mountain in the sequenced that our group was planning to climb. The approach to Refugio was quite straightforward though it still required pretty good physical preparation. On the Summit day we took off quite late around 7:30 am. So by the time we reached the summit the top of the mountain was all covered in clouds. Overall it is quite easy mountain to climb in the low 5000's meters. Since it was only our second day at such an altitude some of the members of our party struggle through continues headaches|
|Posted Jan 23, 2003 7:21 pm|