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maraudersStandard Route: Jan 10, 2007  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 10, 2007

marauders

Snowed two inches overnight which made the more exposed sections of the rock scramble a bit interesting, but overall is was easy terrain and a fun rock scramble with beautiful views. No rope necessary on the 5.3 section. I found the climbing to be a bit easier than what I think of as 5.3. We downclimbed the same section with no rope. Sunny in the morning, clouds rolled in around 10am. The hike to the hut, and the night at the hut, was the crux for me. The approach hike goes on forever and the hut is small, dirty, musty and dark. Get there early to the hut or you'll get stuck sleeping on this nasty loft with no leg room. I learned the hard way! What a night!

We didn't take a guide on this mountain, but I wouldn't necessarily recommend that decision with the snow we encountered. The traverse onto the north face and the subsequent 5.3 climb up to the summit is hard to see without prior knowledge of the route. We followed a distance behind another 3 man group with prior knowledge of the route which took the dangerous guess work out of the equation. Without that third-party guidance, we would have waisted a lot of time hunting for the right path with steep slopes, snow and exposure. We were fortunate.
Posted Jan 22, 2007 6:15 pm

ScottAaaack!!
Date Climbed: Jan 8, 2007

Scott

We didn't make the summit so I shouldn't sign, but it was such a trial to get here that I am going to sign anyway.

I contracted a serious bout of food poisoning on the way down and at the Houston Airport (USA) on January 4. I was sick on the plane and the next day we were supposed to climb Pichincha. I was so weak that I could only make 135 meters/440 feet on the peak.

The next day we were supposed to go to Iliniza Hut. I was so sick that I couldn't make that either and only made it 2/3 of the way before collapsing and wrenching over. I had to return down the mountain and got sicker as I descended. Luckily we saw two condors; the good news of the day.

On January 7, I was finally feeling better, but not as well as normal. We climbed to the hut that day. Unfortunately on the 8th we were actually supposed to climb Sur, but I wasn't up to it and my wife wasn't feeling great either. We missed our acclimatization days at the beginning of the trip.

On January 8 I was better and we set off for Norte, but my wife wasn't feeling up to doing the Paso de la Muerte so we turned around there at 5060 meters/16,601 feet; 56 meters/184 feet from the summit.

What an ordeal. I sure was disappointed for never getting a crack at Sur. We were out of time and it was time to head to Cotopaxi. Luckily I was better after Iliniza.

Don't eat tacos in the Houston Airport!
Posted Jan 22, 2007 5:02 am

tjbst47iliniza norte  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Dec 27, 2006

tjbst47

I believe that the second peak is from the hut is higher that the peak with the cross. The guides say that the peak with the cross is higher probably because getting to the next peak requires some exposed fifth class at high altitude. However, the altimeter says otherwise.
Posted Dec 31, 2006 7:27 pm

Fabrice.RimlingerNormal route
Date Climbed: Oct 29, 2005

Fabrice.Rimlinger

Almost to the top ! I was alone and it snowed the night before... got to be carefull.
Posted Nov 11, 2006 4:52 pm

Thomas Gurvieznormal route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 22, 2006

Thomas Gurviez

we planned to climb iliniza sur, but a snowfall higger than 4000 m made it impossible, and we just climbed the easier iliniza norte, nice views on cotopaxi and beautiful snow accumulations on the rocks below the summit
Posted Oct 10, 2006 4:54 pm

pksanderIliniza Norte  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 13, 2006

pksander

A great climb with Eileen and Marco Cruz and his guides at Andinas Expeditiones. A very nice mixed snow and rock climb in good weather. A warm up for Cotopaxi a few days later.
Posted Sep 26, 2006 10:07 pm

nesnegrojRoute: normal  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 22, 2003

nesnegroj

Nice hut and nice climb all together.
Posted May 16, 2006 6:42 pm

summiterRoute: Straight up sandslide  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Apr 9, 2005

summiter

This was a good mountain. We went up the sanslide on the front of the mountain instead of circling around to the back. After the sanslide there was a short gully we went up and joined where we would have come up on the trail around the back. This was more dificult but saved a good amount of time. Horrid weather at the top, but nice once we came down again. Had some steep slopes on the way up after joining up with the trail. Had a great time.
Posted Mar 30, 2006 1:40 am

YetiBauerNormal Route  Sucess!

YetiBauer

What a windy place to put a rock pile!
Posted Feb 28, 2006 2:16 am

forjanRoute Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: January 2, 2006  Sucess!

forjan

January 1, 2006: Drove to La Virgen trailhead (3950 meters / 12,959 ft): the trailhead for the Ilinizas. The approach hike to Iliniza's hut Refugio Nuevos Horizontes took 2 hrs 20 min. Slept at Iliniza's hut (15,256 ft).



January 2, 2006: Climbed Iliniza Norte with DeeDee via the Normal Route. Started at 6:09am. Summited by 7:58am and back at the hut by 9:00am (~ 3 hrs roundtrip). We picked up our camping gear and walked to La Virgen trailhead. Then, drove to Quito to overnight.

Posted Jan 13, 2006 3:25 pm

colintRoute Climbed: normal Date Climbed: jan 10 2005  Sucess!

colint

The atrocious refugio was more than compensated for by an exceptional hike/scramble to the summit with remarkable views of the volcanoes of Ecuador above the clouds at dawn.
Posted Jan 12, 2006 11:58 am

climberbenRoute Climbed: standard from La Virgen Date Climbed: 15 October 2000  Sucess!

climberben

Spent the night at the refugio and made a quick morning climb to the summit in cloudy weather. Broke above the clouds in the last 10 meters to the summit. Awesome views. Hiked almost back to Machachi before a bus came by and picked us up that afternoon.
Posted Dec 25, 2005 9:02 pm

ArioRoute Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: June 8th, 2005  Sucess!

Ario

Committed trek (UIAA II, 70 degrees, + 475m), with Suzy (UK) et Scott (USA), good weather. No more permanent snow left unlike what is mentioned on some maps...

Posted Nov 8, 2005 11:52 pm

edlRoute Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: Nov. 98  Sucess!
We did this as a warm up for Cotopoxi. Nice day climb.
Posted Sep 29, 2005 6:23 pm

C.WagnerRoute Climbed: Normal route from La Virgen Date Climbed: July 13, 2005  Sucess!
Spent the night at the end of the 4 WD track (la Virgen ?) - camp site

Start at 0500

Hut at 0800 (short break)

Summit at 1015

Cloudy, no view

Some snow at the summit



Rock climbing at the end. Take a rope for descent



A good acclimatisation for Cotopaxi
Posted Aug 22, 2005 2:31 pm

mpaRoute Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: July 8, 2005  Sucess!

mpa

Nice climb in the morning after a sleepless night.

We could see Cotopaxi and Chimborazo although Iliniza-Sur was in clouds.
Posted Aug 11, 2005 5:31 am

CautiousRoute Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: January 2005  Sucess!

Cautious

Nice climb, no technical difficulties to speak of. Coming down was fun.
Posted Jun 24, 2005 9:27 am

andre hangaardRoute Climbed: Standard route Date Climbed: 03 May 2005  Sucess!

andre hangaard

Great climb on a perfect day.

We started early in the morning. Beautiful scenery with Cotopaxi and Chimborazo.

Conditions were excellent - no snow and dry rock. The Paso de Muerte was a piece of cake.

Posted May 26, 2005 5:26 pm

AndinistalocoRoute Climbed: standard Date Climbed: winter '99-00  Sucess!

Andinistaloco

Good climb - and also nice as an acclimitizer for the higher ones. The Paso de Muerte's a little funky but not too technical in good conditions. Suerte!
Posted Mar 3, 2005 12:56 am

ripper333Route Climbed: normal route Date Climbed: dec 2004
approached from way down yonder in el chaupi. great hostel to stay is hacienda san jose.. spent the nite and pushed to

the summit the next day in horrendous weather..

summitted.. and headed all the way back to the

hacienda.. very long day.. and it rained like

crazy all day. good experience all the same.
Posted Feb 15, 2005 6:20 pm

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