Illiniza Sur (Iliniza Sur) Climber's Log
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|asiwalkirun||Short but rewarding! |
Date Climbed: Jan 19, 2014
|Left the refuge at 4:00 a.m. under thick clouds and light rainfall. The rain stopped by the time we reached the rock gully leading to the lower glacier, and the clouds began to thin out as we began climbing the snow ramps. The climbing was steep and sustained but secure on perfect, crisp, supportive snow the entire way. Apparently the mountain has been experiencing exceptionally good snow conditions these past few weeks. Guide placed pickets and belayed three pitches, we simultaneously climbed the rest. Reached the summit at 6:30 a.m., and were back in the refuge by 8:00. No rappelling on the descent, except for that slippery rock gully below the glacier. An enjoyable, rewarding climb! Climbed with Ecuadorian guide Pato.|
|Posted Jan 30, 2014 1:54 pm|
|Bluebell08||Normal Route |
Date Climbed: Dec 19, 2013
|Very early start from the hut but decent snow conditions on the route. Some navigation around crevasses and VERY steep climbing in a few sections to the summit but rather short. Clouds dominated as they had on Corazon and Norte so no view. Some light snow during the climb. Summit around 7, back to the hut around 9/9:30. Rocks on the way down with the new snow were a bit frustrating and tenuous.|
|Posted Jan 5, 2014 11:41 am|
Date Climbed: Jun 12, 2013
|Started at 5:00am from the refuge, had a beautiful sunrise and sea of clouds when reaching the glacier atop the gully. Weather turned quickly and we decided to go down after the first ramp, 200 meters below the summit. The softened snow on the way down confirmed it was the best choice.|
|Posted Jun 13, 2013 3:11 pm|
|Garon Coriz||Birthday Climb |
Date Climbed: Mar 11, 2013
|Could hardly sleep due to the terrible leg pains that came out of nowhere. No matter, we woke up about 2 and made it to the summit in about 2 hours and 15 minutes. We had to wait at the summit doing push-ups and shadow-boxing to stay warm as we waited for the sunrise. I must say it was the best view of Ecuador I've had with everything from Cotacachi to Chimborazo in view — absolutely gorgeous.|
|Posted Mar 12, 2013 5:45 pm|
|skyward22||normal route |
Date Climbed: Dec 29, 2009
|Climbed w/Joe Miller, one of my favorite climbs to date. Epic views and exposure in places from the valley below.|
|Posted Jan 15, 2013 4:25 am|
|MichaelWB||Excellent conditions |
Date Climbed: Dec 4, 2012
|Acclimatised on Illiniza Norte the day before, so after a second night in the hut, we set off at 3am across the scree. Great climbing up the steep snow/ice ramps, over/around a few crevasses and soon enjoying the views from the summit. Rappelled 3 times on the descent, and quickly hiked from the glacier access gully back to the refuge, as a few melon-sized rocks started falling from above :-/|
Had the mountain to ourselves all day :-)
|Posted Dec 30, 2012 11:55 am|
|attimount||A nice climb |
Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2012
|it was a nice climb, somehow a little too dificulte for my partner, but we made it to the top. Great views toward the other volcanoes.|
|Posted Nov 25, 2012 5:51 pm|
|logikal||Great Climb |
Date Climbed: Jun 28, 2012
|Awesome climbing into the unknown. With the route descriptions being useless, no map, and visability less than 60 feet it felt like a great adventure. This was my favorite climb I have thus far attempted in Ecuador.|
|Posted Aug 6, 2012 3:06 pm|
|MMclimbhigh||Normal Route |
Date Climbed: Dec 12, 2011
|Climbed the beautiful Normal Route in one day from the truck. 8 hrs RT with an amazing sunrise above the clouds. One of our best climbs in Ecuador! A must-do.|
|Posted Dec 19, 2011 4:44 pm|
|Boriss Andean||Illiniza Sur in one day. |
Date Climbed: Jan 16, 2011
|Rafael (ECU), Alvaro (ECU) and I left from Quito at 3:00 am and head for Illiniza Sur. |
We started our hike from La Virgen parking lot at 5:30 am and got to the refuge two hours later.
We started the climb at 8:30 am. Nice weather and cold temperatures. The new snow was very good consolidated.
Fun and steep pitches. I led more of half of the climb followed by Alvaro (roped up with me) and Rafael. Our snow pickets were very useful during the climb.
We took a straightforward route up to the summit, no traversing involved, so we climb some steep walls.
We reached the summit (5,263 m / 17,267 ft) at 11:30 am. Rafael, Alvaro and I stayed up there a few minutes and headed quickly down before the snow starts to soften.
Again, very happy.. I summited Cotopaxi the prior day :).
|Posted Jan 17, 2011 3:38 pm|
|rgg||A bit to far to the west ... |
Date Climbed: Dec 9, 2010
|Climbed with Marcial as guide. Visibility was poor and fresh snow made the route hard to find. As a result, Marcial couldn´t find the normal rock scramble that leads from the saddle between the Ilinizas to the glacier, so eventually we just went up a steep bit of rock somewhere further west than usual. Marcial was leading, so he had to do the hard part here, I just had to follow. On the way back down, we followed the normal route, which was definitely easier.|
That same fresh snow, which made walking physically demanding, also made the steep face a piece of cake. The rock scramble was the crux of the climb.
|Posted Dec 13, 2010 5:56 pm|
|russmeehan||Illiniza Sur |
Date Climbed: May 16, 2010
|Normal route still ok at this point in time; however, some front pointing is required and there was only one narrow path around the big crevasse halfway up.|
|Posted Aug 5, 2010 10:59 am|
Date Climbed: Jan 25, 2010
|Spectacular weather and the funnest peak overall in our short trip to Ecuador.|
|Posted Apr 23, 2010 8:32 pm|
|scottmitch||Normal Route Variation |
Date Climbed: Jan 25, 2010
|Climbed with Dustin and a guide named Fernando. Took the long way down by the lake then up to the glacier then direct up the ridge. Awesome climb perfect weather.|
|Posted Jan 30, 2010 1:19 pm|
|Boriss Andean||Route Climbed: Normal Route. |
Date Climbed: Dec 20, 2009
|Coral (USA) and I left the refuge at 4:00 am. Diego (SPA) came along with us during the climb.|
It took us more than 40 minutes to negociate our way up thru the boulder field located at the base of Illiniza Sur.
The mountain was very icy on the first ramp. It felt awesome to place my two technical piolets on it. Coral and Diego followed at good pace.
We got to the summit (5,263 m / 17,267 ft) at 7:30 am. after 3 and a half hours of fast climbing. Love this kind of climbs!
The snow softened a lot on our descent from the summit. But ice conditions were perfect on the first ramp. We placed a few ice screws on the way down. Nice pitches.
|Posted Dec 21, 2009 6:43 pm|
|Shirley Lam||My Favorite in Ecuador! |
Date Climbed: Jan 20, 2009
|Climbed the Direct Route with Bighornmonkey. This was my favorite out of all the volcanoes we climbed in Ecuador during this trip (Chimborazo, Cayambe, Cotopaxi, Illiniza Norte, Ruminahui).|
|Posted Aug 18, 2009 3:05 pm|
|Boriss Andean||Route Climbed: Normal Route |
Date Climbed: May 18, 2009
|Started from La Virgen Camping Site. Benno (Switzerland), Cristian (ECU) and I guided a group of 5 germans.|
We left the camp site at 1:00 am and hiked up to the refuge where we got ready for the climb.
We climbed the steep ramps up to the summit (5,263 m/17,267 ft). A tough climb with great views of other Andean mountains.
I guided Ralph and his wife Andrea, an experienced german couple. It took us 7 hours to summit from La Virgen Parking lot, and 2 and a half hours to get back to the camping site.
|Posted May 18, 2009 5:36 pm|
|bighornmonkey||Two-fer on the Ilinizas |
Date Climbed: Jan 20, 2009
|Climbed Iliniza SUR (La Rampa/Direct Route), then NORTE on the same day. Good snow coverage prevented rockfall on the direct route which I was told makes it dangerous these days.|
We came down the same way we went up after a 5:00am start from the hut.
I made a youtube video of the climb: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sD87z5DEoYM
|Posted Feb 2, 2009 4:56 pm|
|ChristianRodriguez||Normal route, technical ones |
Date Climbed: Jan 19, 2008
|Guatemalan team split on this volcano, Edgar returns without the summit. Heloise(FRA) and Boris (ECU) guided to Siomara (GUA) she was very slow that day. Jose (ECU) and me reached summit a couple of hours before. Great views in the climbing but over the top just a few seconds with good visibility.|
|Posted Sep 8, 2008 12:39 am|
|cristakhe||normal route |
Date Climbed: Jan 30, 2008
|The route is very nice but you need to be fast because of wet snow during the day. Nice place, widhout any other climbers.|
|Posted Feb 26, 2008 9:51 am|