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BVasconcelosEasier the expected  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Nov 21, 2013

BVasconcelos

From what I gathered reading the Illiniza Sur page I thought the climb would be technical and though. However, conditions were excellent and no belaying and rapelling were needed. At the rock gully I lowered the client and downclimbed, since the rope was too short for me to rapel. The worst part was definitively the moraine...
Posted Mar 15, 2014 6:50 pm

Cloud OceanShort but rewarding!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 19, 2014

Cloud Ocean

Left the refuge at 4:00 a.m. under thick clouds and light rainfall. The rain stopped by the time we reached the rock gully leading to the lower glacier, and the clouds began to thin out as we began climbing the snow ramps. The climbing was steep and sustained but secure on perfect, crisp, supportive snow the entire way. Apparently the mountain has been experiencing exceptionally good snow conditions these past few weeks. Guide placed pickets and belayed three pitches, we simultaneously climbed the rest. Reached the summit at 6:30 a.m., and were back in the refuge by 8:00. No rappelling on the descent, except for that slippery rock gully below the glacier. An enjoyable, rewarding climb! Climbed with Ecuadorian guide Pato.
Posted Jan 30, 2014 1:54 pm

Bluebell08Normal Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Dec 19, 2013

Bluebell08

Very early start from the hut but decent snow conditions on the route. Some navigation around crevasses and VERY steep climbing in a few sections to the summit but rather short. Clouds dominated as they had on Corazon and Norte so no view. Some light snow during the climb. Summit around 7, back to the hut around 9/9:30. Rocks on the way down with the new snow were a bit frustrating and tenuous.
Posted Jan 5, 2014 11:41 am

piemNext time
Date Climbed: Jun 12, 2013

piem

Started at 5:00am from the refuge, had a beautiful sunrise and sea of clouds when reaching the glacier atop the gully. Weather turned quickly and we decided to go down after the first ramp, 200 meters below the summit. The softened snow on the way down confirmed it was the best choice.
Posted Jun 13, 2013 3:11 pm

Garon CorizBirthday Climb  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Mar 11, 2013

Garon Coriz

Could hardly sleep due to the terrible leg pains that came out of nowhere. No matter, we woke up about 2 and made it to the summit in about 2 hours and 15 minutes. We had to wait at the summit doing push-ups and shadow-boxing to stay warm as we waited for the sunrise. I must say it was the best view of Ecuador I've had with everything from Cotacachi to Chimborazo in view — absolutely gorgeous.
Posted Mar 12, 2013 5:45 pm

skyward22normal route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Dec 29, 2009

skyward22

Climbed w/Joe Miller, one of my favorite climbs to date. Epic views and exposure in places from the valley below.
Posted Jan 15, 2013 4:25 am

MichaelWBExcellent conditions  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Dec 4, 2012

MichaelWB

Acclimatised on Illiniza Norte the day before, so after a second night in the hut, we set off at 3am across the scree. Great climbing up the steep snow/ice ramps, over/around a few crevasses and soon enjoying the views from the summit. Rappelled 3 times on the descent, and quickly hiked from the glacier access gully back to the refuge, as a few melon-sized rocks started falling from above :-/
Had the mountain to ourselves all day :-)
Posted Dec 30, 2012 11:55 am

attimountA nice climb  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2012

attimount

it was a nice climb, somehow a little too dificulte for my partner, but we made it to the top. Great views toward the other volcanoes.
Posted Nov 25, 2012 5:51 pm

logikalGreat Climb  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 28, 2012

logikal

Awesome climbing into the unknown. With the route descriptions being useless, no map, and visability less than 60 feet it felt like a great adventure. This was my favorite climb I have thus far attempted in Ecuador.
Posted Aug 6, 2012 3:06 pm

MMclimbhighNormal Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Dec 12, 2011

MMclimbhigh

Climbed the beautiful Normal Route in one day from the truck. 8 hrs RT with an amazing sunrise above the clouds. One of our best climbs in Ecuador! A must-do.
Posted Dec 19, 2011 4:44 pm

Boriss AndeanIlliniza Sur in one day.  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 16, 2011

Boriss Andean

Rafael (ECU), Alvaro (ECU) and I left from Quito at 3:00 am and head for Illiniza Sur.

We started our hike from La Virgen parking lot at 5:30 am and got to the refuge two hours later.

We started the climb at 8:30 am. Nice weather and cold temperatures. The new snow was very good consolidated.

Fun and steep pitches. I led more of half of the climb followed by Alvaro (roped up with me) and Rafael. Our snow pickets were very useful during the climb.

We took a straightforward route up to the summit, no traversing involved, so we climb some steep walls.

We reached the summit (5,263 m / 17,267 ft) at 11:30 am. Rafael, Alvaro and I stayed up there a few minutes and headed quickly down before the snow starts to soften.

Again, very happy.. I summited Cotopaxi the prior day :).
Posted Jan 17, 2011 3:38 pm

rggA bit to far to the west ...  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Dec 9, 2010

rgg

Climbed with Marcial as guide. Visibility was poor and fresh snow made the route hard to find. As a result, Marcial couldn´t find the normal rock scramble that leads from the saddle between the Ilinizas to the glacier, so eventually we just went up a steep bit of rock somewhere further west than usual. Marcial was leading, so he had to do the hard part here, I just had to follow. On the way back down, we followed the normal route, which was definitely easier.

That same fresh snow, which made walking physically demanding, also made the steep face a piece of cake. The rock scramble was the crux of the climb.
Posted Dec 13, 2010 5:56 pm

russmeehanIlliniza Sur  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 16, 2010

russmeehan

Normal route still ok at this point in time; however, some front pointing is required and there was only one narrow path around the big crevasse halfway up.
Posted Aug 5, 2010 10:59 am

apachedinoFun  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 25, 2010

apachedino

Spectacular weather and the funnest peak overall in our short trip to Ecuador.
Posted Apr 23, 2010 8:32 pm

scottmitchNormal Route Variation  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 25, 2010

scottmitch

Climbed with Dustin and a guide named Fernando. Took the long way down by the lake then up to the glacier then direct up the ridge. Awesome climb perfect weather.
Posted Jan 30, 2010 1:19 pm

Boriss AndeanRoute Climbed: Normal Route.  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Dec 20, 2009

Boriss Andean

Coral (USA) and I left the refuge at 4:00 am. Diego (SPA) came along with us during the climb.

It took us more than 40 minutes to negociate our way up thru the boulder field located at the base of Illiniza Sur.

The mountain was very icy on the first ramp. It felt awesome to place my two technical piolets on it. Coral and Diego followed at good pace.

We got to the summit (5,263 m / 17,267 ft) at 7:30 am. after 3 and a half hours of fast climbing. Love this kind of climbs!

The snow softened a lot on our descent from the summit. But ice conditions were perfect on the first ramp. We placed a few ice screws on the way down. Nice pitches.
Posted Dec 21, 2009 6:43 pm

Shirley LamMy Favorite in Ecuador!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 20, 2009

Shirley Lam

Climbed the Direct Route with Bighornmonkey. This was my favorite out of all the volcanoes we climbed in Ecuador during this trip (Chimborazo, Cayambe, Cotopaxi, Illiniza Norte, Ruminahui).
Posted Aug 18, 2009 3:05 pm

Boriss AndeanRoute Climbed: Normal Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 18, 2009

Boriss Andean

Started from La Virgen Camping Site. Benno (Switzerland), Cristian (ECU) and I guided a group of 5 germans.

We left the camp site at 1:00 am and hiked up to the refuge where we got ready for the climb.

We climbed the steep ramps up to the summit (5,263 m/17,267 ft). A tough climb with great views of other Andean mountains.

I guided Ralph and his wife Andrea, an experienced german couple. It took us 7 hours to summit from La Virgen Parking lot, and 2 and a half hours to get back to the camping site.
Posted May 18, 2009 5:36 pm

bighornmonkeyTwo-fer on the Ilinizas  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 20, 2009

bighornmonkey

Climbed Iliniza SUR (La Rampa/Direct Route), then NORTE on the same day. Good snow coverage prevented rockfall on the direct route which I was told makes it dangerous these days.
We came down the same way we went up after a 5:00am start from the hut.

I made a youtube video of the climb: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sD87z5DEoYM
Posted Feb 2, 2009 4:56 pm

ChristianRodriguezNormal route, technical ones  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 19, 2008

ChristianRodriguez

Guatemalan team split on this volcano, Edgar returns without the summit. Heloise(FRA) and Boris (ECU) guided to Siomara (GUA) she was very slow that day. Jose (ECU) and me reached summit a couple of hours before. Great views in the climbing but over the top just a few seconds with good visibility.
Posted Sep 8, 2008 12:39 am

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