Cordillera Occidental (Ecuador) > Illiniza Sur (Iliniza Sur) > Climber's LogIlliniza Sur (Iliniza Sur) Climber's Log
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| lefty | Normal Route  Date Climbed: Dec 31, 2007 | |
| There was lots of snow on the route making the conditions pretty good for a summit bid on this day. My first glacier climb in Ecuador was a success. La Rampa Route had no snow on it. | |
| Posted Jan 16, 2008 1:02 am | ||
| Boriss Andean | Route Climbed: Normal Route. Date Climbed: Feb 11, 2007 | |
| One of my best climbs of Illiniza Sur. Good weather and perfect snow conditions. Cravasses were visible and ice bridges very compacted. Climbed with Jana (Czech Republic). Views from the summit were awesome! | |
| Posted Sep 26, 2007 11:43 pm | ||
| Jessica L | Iliniza Sur Date Climbed: Nov 27, 2006 | |
| Great climb! My guide and I left early (4am) and had good snow conditions, but it was much worse on the descent as it became quite warm. The summit was cloudy, so there were no good views, which ended up not mattering since I accidently formatted my camera and lost the pictures from the first 5 days. I guess I'll have to climb it again! | ||
| Posted Apr 15, 2007 12:27 am | ||
| knowlesjustin | Puts things in perspective Date Climbed: Mar 17, 2004 | |
| As we plodded up the normal route in gore-tex, a platoon of Ecuador reserve troops past us up to the refugio and back in sweats. Their fitness things in perspective for our group. We were turned around by extremely high winds a little below 17,000, but the trip is highly recommended. | |
| Posted Nov 14, 2006 3:05 am | ||
| Thomas Gurviez | normal route Date Climbed: Sep 22, 2006 | |
| we have to give up at 4800 m (bottom of glacier) due to heavy snowfall during the night, that made the exposed traverse to the glacier dangerous. no more ice on the former direct route, which has completely melt... hike on iliniza norte then to replace sur | |
| Posted Oct 10, 2006 4:53 pm | ||
| osatrik | Ilinza Sur - normal route Date Climbed: Feb 11, 2002 | |
| OSAT group -- what a wonderful route, nice glacier route. Probably the best moderate (i.e. no ice protection required when we did it) steep glacier climb I've ever done. | |
| Posted Aug 14, 2006 7:31 pm | ||
| Igor Czs | normal route Date Climbed: Feb 15, 1997 | |
| Me and my frien Alexandre reached the top in bad wheather conditions.No views....The summit itself is an instable cornice. 5 hs from the hut at 4700mts. | |
| Posted May 10, 2006 12:14 am | ||
| summiter | Route Climbed: Unsure Date Climbed: May 15, 2005 | |
| We camped next to the refuge. Luckily there was no one there to keep us awake! At the time I didnt have a sleeping bag and my friend forgot to bring me one! So I rolled up in a good quality space blanket, put on all my coats and stuff and made an ok night out of it. I am unsure of the route we took, "Uncle" Rick was looking around for the route as he had not been there in a while. We ended up rock climbing up a small section which led right to the glacier. On the glacier we had another rock climb, made awkward only because of the boots and crampons. I thouroghly enjoyed this climb, and the summit was the coolest one I've seen yet. The view was great! | |
| Posted Mar 30, 2006 1:28 am | ||
| carolina.altamirano | Normal Date Climbed: Jan 28, 2006 | |
| Cloudy summit, the last part was terrible, there was powder snow that made the last part seem endless. The refugio is not very nice, I think it is better, as we did, to bring a tent and camp next to the refugio. | |
| Posted Mar 7, 2006 3:01 pm | ||
| climberben | Route Climbed: Standard Direct Date Climbed: 29 October 2000 | |
| Left the refugio in the dark in clear skies. Had perfect conditions and were on top in two hours. We watched the sunrise from the summit and downclimbed the route back to the hut. | |
| Posted Dec 25, 2005 9:07 pm | ||
| esugi | Route Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: July 27, 2005 | |
| Left the refugio in wet, windy, and poor visibility conditions. We went the lower route to reach the glacier to avoid rockfall but had route finding problems. After 3 hours, we finally reached the glacier but by then, we were completely soaked and were covered in ice from head to toe. We pushed on for little while on the glacier but we finally turned around approx. 600 feet from the summit. We were pretty cold and prospect of down climbing in poor weather made the decision easy for us. I'll try again some day. | |
| Posted Aug 5, 2005 11:00 pm | ||
| RModelli | Route Climbed: normal route Date Climbed: Jna 18, 2005 | |
| Great climb, the technical part of it was much shorter than what I had anticipated, didn't place any pro and did a couple of running belays on the way back, other than that the route was great and the climb has amazing views. The ascent we went around the ridge and over the glacier. The descent we shortcutted over the glacier on ice, it was faster but a little more risky. | |
| Posted Feb 20, 2005 9:19 pm | ||
| neoday | Route Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: January 18, 2005 | |
| Excellent climb! I learned this lesson the hard way, so please take heed: when they say the approach to the hut takes 3 hours- don't take it as a challenge to do it faster. I did it in 2hours 20minutes. The next day (summit day) I was more fatigued than I needed to be from racing up the approach (which gained me NOTHING, except for this valuable lesson) about 4 hours to the summit and 1.5 back down I believe. Great, well actually Amazing views! Plenty of fun exposure. Snow pack was stable and hard. We traveled over quite a bit of glacial ice that had little or no snow. Crampons were absolutley necessary. I brought 2 technical tools (BD Vipers) and an ice axe. It was fun to have both tools, but 1 would have been enough in conjunction with my ice axe (BD Raven Pro 65 cm) | |
| Posted Feb 15, 2005 1:10 pm | ||
| big_g | Route Climbed: Ruta Normal Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2004 | |
| Had an experience similar to Tom's below minus the 40 others in the refuge! Yikes there's only 14 bunks! Wonderful climb and my favorite in Ecuador. Great weather and some views but not from the summit. | |
| Posted Aug 13, 2004 6:05 pm | ||
| igor cazes | Route Climbed: normal route Date Climbed: 15 february 1997 | |
| Me and Alexandre reached the top of this eroded volcano whith bad weather and no views. One of the most technicals normal routes in Equador. | ||
| Posted Jul 10, 2004 3:15 pm | ||
| Tom Fralich | Route Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: January 2, 2004 | |
| Definitely my favorite climb in Ecuador. We left the refuge at 5:30 (after spending the night with 40 others) and arrived on the summit at 9:00. The weather was not that good (low visibility), but snow conditions were excellent. One pitch of 75-80 degrees just above the first major crevasse (rotten ice) and a few shorter steep sections. We climbed following the red line on the route overview photo, passing to the right of the rock island below the summit. The summit cornice was really impressive (icy and hollow). On descent, we rappelled once from an in situ picket to pass the crux pitch, but otherwise downclimbed with no difficulty. | |
| Posted Jan 3, 2004 10:29 am | ||
| Zhenya77 | Route Climbed: La Rampa/Normal Routes Date Climbed: December 28, 2002 | |
| After we climbed Illiniza Norte, most of the memebers ofour climbing party decided to take a day off. Thus i made a decision to do a SOLO climb on the Illiniza Sur following the La Rampa Route and combing back on the Normal Route. I depart at 8:00 am. After 30 min of walking on the glassier the slope suddenly became over 60 deg. The ice condition was terrible. My iceaxe penetrated the ice only by 2 cm. Then the 60 deg slope turned into 75-85 deg for about 3 vertical meters. Once i made it through then i easlily climbed through the rock ridge and reached the "mushrum", the point where La Rampa and Normal routes meet. The weather conditions became terrible. The visibility was only 7 m. Thus, taking into consideration the fact that i lost radio and was not able to comunicate with my climbing group for consecutive 3 hours, i made the decition to come back to base camp. If not he weather i would defenetly go all the way to the top. I was standing only 7m (vertical) from the summit | |
| Posted Jan 23, 2003 7:44 pm | ||
| El Tigre Valderrama | Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: January 4, 2003 | |
| With my wife Annica Carlsson, I was climbing in the middle of lots of mist and fog, we could not see 10 feet away!. We believe we got about 20 to 50 meters away from the summit, climbing about 98% of the route. We confirmed this later on after talking to a guide that climbed the route the day after we attemped the summit. We started the climb kind of late, 6:30 AM, and not knowing how far we where into the summit ridge by 10:50 AM, we decided to bail out. We belived that this was a good decision, since the climb has several sustained 60-70 degrees snow and icy sections and 3 large, bridged crevasses to cross and the summit has a cornice. The day was not very cold and we were concerned about the condition of the snow. Iliniza Sur is definetelly a must-do for the alpine aficionado. | |
| Posted Jan 5, 2003 3:57 pm | ||
| jasonconnell | Route Climbed: Standard Date Climbed: Nov 12 1999 | |
| See trip Report | |
| Posted Sep 7, 2002 1:39 pm | ||
| BicRungee | Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: January, 2001 | |
Climbed with Matt "dad" Sherman and Linda Josephson. Stayed in tent next to rather grim and dirty refugio. Excellent snow conditions. Placed a few stakes for running belays both ascending & descending. Sunny summit with nice view of other volcanoes including Cotopaxi. | ||
| Posted Jul 10, 2002 3:23 pm | ||
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