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Im extremen Fels - Walter Pause
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Im extremen Fels - Walter Pause

 
Im extremen Fels - Walter Pause

Page Type: List

Location: Austria/France/Germany/Italy/Slovenia/Switzerland, Europe

Object Title: Im extremen Fels - Walter Pause

 

Page By: RoyD

Created/Edited: Aug 5, 2011 / Aug 9, 2011

Object ID: 735434

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The Book

In 1970, Walter Pause made a selection of the 100 classical extreme rockclimbing routes.

Most of the routes are graded UIAA VI-VII (but it has to be realised that VI used to be the limit of the UIAA grading system).

In 1977, the second edition of the book was published which contained three routes which were changed and two routes which were exchanged (marked with a).

Nowadays, the book has become a collector's item.

A list of all the routes is available on the internet. However, in the table below you can additionally find topos,recent information about the routes (and the grading) and references to guidebooks containing the described routes.

If you have additional information, comments, topos, etc. regarding the book, please let me know

The Routes

Nr.AreaMountainRouteFirst AscentOriginal GradingGradingTopoGuidebook
1EcrinsAilefroide (Occidental)NW face, GervasuttiG. Gervasutti & L. Devies, 23-24 July 1936VI-ED-, 5c, 1000ma1 (r.97), 2
2EcrinsPic Sans NomN face, George-RussenbergerL. George & V. Russenberger, 22-24 August 1950VIED, 6a, 1000ma1 (r.95)
3EcrinsBarre des EcrinsS Pillar-V+TD-, 5c, 1300ma, b1 (r.75), 2
4EcrinsL’OlanNW face, Couzy-DesmaisonJ. Couzy & R. DesmaisonV+/A2--1 (r.98)
4aEcrinsL’OlanNW face, Devies-GervasuttiL. Devies & G. Gervasutti-TD, 6a+, 1100ma1 (r.82)
5EcrinsLa Meije (Grand Pic)Direct S faceP. Allain & R. Leininger, 21 August 1935V+/A1TD, 5c, 800ma1, 3, 22 (p.59)
6Mont BlancAiguille Noire de PeutereyS RidgeK. Brendel & H. Schaller, 26-27 August 1930VI-Td, 5c, 1100ma4 (r.292), 5 (r.75), 6 (r.142), 7, 8 (r.273)
7Mont BlancAiguille Noire de PeutereyDirect W faceV. Ratti & G. Vitali, 18-20 August 1939V+/A2TD, V+/A1, 700m-4 (r.294), 5 (r.83), 6 (r.148)
8Mont BlancMont BlancE face, FreneypillarC. Bonnington, I. Clough, J. Dlugosz & D. Whillians, 27-29 August 1961; R. Desmaison, P. Julien, J. Piussi & Y. Pollet-Villard, 28-29 August 1961VI/A2TD+, 5c/A0, 60°, 500ma4 (r.220), 5 (r.100), 6 (r.91)
9Mont BlancGrand CapucinE faceW. Bonatti & L. Ghigo, 20-23 July 1951VI/A2ED, 6a/A0, 300ma4 (r.393), 5 (r.89), 6 (r.254), 7
10Mont BlancMont Blanc du TaculSE Ridge, Arête du DiableM. O'Brien, R. Underhill, A. Charlet & G. Cachat, 4 August 1928VD+, 5c, 35°, 600ma4 (r.346), 5 (r.54), 6 (r.190)
11Mont BlancGrand JorassesN face, WalkerpillarR. Cassin, L. Esposito & U. Tizzoni, 4-6 August 1938VIED-, 6a, 90°, 1200ma4 (r.930), 5 (r.97), 6 (r.53), 9
12Mont BlancGrand JorassesN face, CrozpillarR. Peters & M. Meier, 28-29 June 1935VI/A1TD, V+, 60°, 1200m-4 (r.926), 5 (r.96), 6 (r.48), 9
13Mont BlancPetites JorassesW face, ContamineA. Contamine, M. Bron & P. Labrunie, 20-21 August 1955 VI/A2TD, 6a, 750ma4 (r.983), 5 (r.85), 6 (r.85), 22 (p.80)
14Mont BlancAiguille de BlaitièreW face, Brittish (Brown-Willans)J. Brown & D. Whillans, 25 July 1954VI/A2ED-, VII, 350m-4 (r.707), 5 (r.71), 10 (r.129)
15Mont BlancPetit DruW face, BonattipillarW. Bonatti, 17-22 August 1955VI/A2ED+, 7a, 750m-4 (r.1270), 5 (r.92), 10 (r.133)
16Mont BlancPetit DruN face, Allain-LeiningerP. Allain & R. Leiniger, 31 July-1 August 1935V/A2TD-, V+/A0, 800ma4 (r.1291), 5 (r.80), 10 (r.142)
17Mont BlancLes DroitesNE pillarC. Authenac & F. Tournier, 20-21 July 1937VTD, 5c, 1200ma4 (r.1151)
18Bernese AlpsStockhorn-BietschhornÜberschreitung-V--11
19Bernese AlpsScheideggwetterhornDirect N faceS. Abderhalden & M. Niedermann, 12-13 August 1954VI/A3--12 (r.331)
20EngelhörnerKingspitzeNE face, Via SteuriH. Steuri, M. Lüthy & H. Haidegger, 26 September 1937V+/A1D+, 5c, 450ma, b7, 13, 14
21Uri AlpsTällistockInwyler-BielmeierS. Inwyler & A. Bielmeier, 1960VI/A26a+, 400ma, b15, 16
22Uri AlpsGraue WandS face, NiedermannM. Niedermann & W. Siebert, 1964VI-/A2TD, 6a, 400ma, b7, 17 (p.89), 18 (r.422-16), 22 (p.114)
23Uri AlpsSalbitschijenW ridgeB. Favre, E. Favre & L. Henchoz, 1948VI-/A16a/A1, 1000ma7, 17 (p.108-109), 18 (r.117), 19
24WägitalGrosser BockmattliturmDirect N faceP. Diener & M. Niedermann, 1956VI/A26a+, 450ma17 (p.227)
25AlpsteinZweiter KreuzbergS faceM. Niedermann & S. AbderhaldenVI/A2---
26AlpsteinRoter turm/HundsteinS face-VI-/A2--17 (p.270)
27ChurfirstenZustollOld S face-VI-/A1---
28BergellPiz BadileNE face, Via CassinR. Cassin, L. Esposito, V. Ratti, M. Molteni & G. Valsecchi, July 1937VI-/A1TD, 6a, 800ma, b, c7, 20, 21, 22 (p.30)
29BergellPiz CengaloNW pillar, Gaiser-LehmannF. Gaisser & B. Lehmann, 1937VI-/A1TD+, 5a, 1100ma, b7, 21
30BergellPizzi GemelliNW ridge, BügeleisenkanteH. Frei & J. Weiss, 1935V/A1D, 5b, 380ma, b7, 20, 21, 22 (p.26)
31BergellSciora di FuoriN ridgeK. Simon & W. Eippert, 1933VI/A3TD+, 6c, 750ma, b-
32RätikonGrosser DrusenturmSwisspillar-VI/A2--7
33RätikonScheienfluhW faceM. Niedermann & P. DienerVI/A3---
34RätikonSulzfluhDirect SW face-VI--7
35TannheimerRote FlühS faceA. Kleemaier & L. Schuster, 1954VI/A1-a, b-
36WettersteinOberreintaldomGonda-VI/A1--23 (r.1334), 24
37WettersteinUnter SchüsselkarturmN face, SchoberM. Schober & R. Münch, 7 Oktober 1938VI/A1VI/A0 (VI+), 250m-25 (r.30)
38WettersteinScharnitzspitzeDirect S face-VI/A1--7
39WettersteinSchüsselkarspitzeDirect S faceK. Rainer & P. Aschenbrenner, 25 June 1939VI/A1VII, 400m-7, 23 (r.1094), 25 (r.23)
40WettersteinSchüsselkarspitzeSE face, Peters-HaringerR. Peters & H. Haringer, 25-26 June 1934VI/A1VI-/A0 (VII-), 400ma7, 23 (r.1098), 25 (r.25)
41KalkkögelGrosse OchsenwandDirect NE face-VI-/A1---
41aKalkkögelGrosse OchsenwandDirect NE ridge-----
42KarwendelKleiner LafatscherNE faceM. Auckenthaler & E. Pirkner, 1930VIVIa25 (r.44)
43KarwendelLalidererwandN face, Schmid-KrebsT Schmid & E. Krebs, 1929VI-/A1-a-
44KarwendelLalidererspitzeN face, Rebitsch-SpieglM. Rebitsch, S. Spiegel & K. Rainer, 1946VI/A2-a-
45RofanSeekarlspitzeN face, YpsilonrissH. Feichtl & E. Schmid, 1923VI-/A1---
46ZillertalerFusssteinN ridgeH. Frenademetz & K. Tschaler, 1935V--a, b, c-
46aZillertalerGrundschartnerN ridgeP. Aschenbrenner & W. Mayr, 1928V+-a, b, c-
47ZillertalerSagwandspitzeN pillarP. Aschenbrenner & W. Mariner, 1939VI--1--
48ZillertalerZsigmondyspitze/FeldkopfFeldkopfkanteH. Feichtl & H. Hotter, 1911V/A2-a-
49Wilder KaiserTotenkirchlW face, DülferH. Dülfer & W. von Redwitz, 26 September 1913V+/A1V+/A0 (VI+), 600ma, b7, 25 (r.56), 26 (r.288), 27
50Wilder KaiserVordere KarlsspitzeE face, GöttnerA. Göttner, M. Meier, H. Biegler, 21 Mai 1935V+/A1-a26
51Wilder KaiserFleischbankE face, DülferH. Dülfer & W. Schaarschmidt, 15 June 1912VV/A0 (VI), 360m-25 (r.57), 26, 27, 28
52Wilder KaiserFleischbankSE faceW. Weiss & P. Moser, 1-2 July 1944VI/A1-a, b26, 27
53Wilder KaiserPredigtstuhlW face, Schüle-Diem/Haslacher-BehringerK. Schüle & P. Diem, 10 July 1921 (lower); H. Haslacher & T. Behringer, 1925 (upper)VI-/A1V+/A0 (VII-), 250m-25 (r.61), 26, 27
54Wilder KaiserBauernpredigtstuhlW face, Lucke-StroblH. Lucke & H. Strobl, 29 June 1947VI/A1VI-/A1 (VII-), 160m-26 (r.426)
55Wilder KaiserMaukspitzeW face, BühlführeH. Bühl, W. Weiss & H. Reischl, 22 August 1943VI-/A1-a, b27
56BerchtesgadenerGrosses GrundübelhornS face-VI/A1---
57BerchtesgadenerGrosses MühlsturzhornDirect S ridgeT. Kurz & A. Hinterstoisser, 1936VI/A2VI/A1 (VIII-), 350m-25 (r.69), 29
58BerchtesgadenerHoher GöllW face, Kleiner TrichterGauder & Helmiger, 1943VI-/A1V+/A0 (VII), 400m-25 (r.84)
59BrentaCima d'AmbiezE face, Via della ConcordiaA. Oggioni, J. Aiazzi, A. Aste & A. Miorandi, 1955VI-/A1ED-, V+/A0 (VI), 350m-30 (p.636)
60BrentaCrozzon di BrentaPilastro dei Francesi/FranzosenpfeilerJ. Fréhel & D. LePrince-Ringuet, 4 August 1965VI-/A1ED-, VI, 850m-30 (p.630)
61BrentaGuglia di Brenta/ Campanile Basso di BrentaSW face, FehrmannR. Fehrmann & O. Perry-Smith, 27 AUgust 1908V-D+, 5b, 460ma, b7, 22 (p.52), 31
62BrentaBrenta AltaNE faceA. Oggioni & J. Aiazzi, 25-26 July 1953VI/A1TD+, VI-/A0 (VII), 460ma30 (p.616)
63RosengartenRotwandSW face, Hasse-BrandlerL. Brandler & D. Hasse, 8-11 September 1958VI/A2IX-, 400m--
64RosengartenRosengartenspitzeDirect E faceH. Steger, P. Wiesinger, F. Masè Dari & S. Lechner, August 1929VI-V+, 600ma31, 32 (p.108)
65SellaPiz de CiavazesS face, Grosse MicheluzziL. Micheluzzi & E. Castiglioni, 26 September 1935VI-/A1V+/A0 (VI/VI+), 500ma31,32 (p.186)
66MarmoladaMarmolada di PeniaSW face, Via SoldàG. Soldà & U. Conforto, 1936VI/A2ED, VI/A0 (6b), 550ma, b30 (p.70)
66aMarmoladaMarmolada di RoccaVia GognaA. Gogna, B. Allemand, A. Dorgatti & A. Giambisi, 27-28 August 1970VI/A1TD+, VI/A2 (6b), 800ma, b30 (p.56)
67MarmoladaMarmolada di RoccaS face, VinatzerG. Vinatzer & E. Castiglioni, 2-3 September 1936VI/A2ED, VI+, 800ma, b, c, d30 (p.52), 31
68Pale di San MartinoSass MaorE face, SollederE. Solleder & F. Kummer, 2 September 1926VI/A1V+/A0 (VI+), 1000ma30 (p.268)
69Pale di San MartinoCima CanaliW face, BühlrissH. Bühl & H. Herweg, 1950VI-VI-, 500m-7, 30 (p.320), 31
70-Campanile Alto dei LasteiW face-VI----
71Pale di San MartinoMonte AgnerN ridgeC. Gilberti & O. Soravito, 29 August, 1932V+/A1V+/A0 (VI+), 1600ma7, 30 (p.246)
72CivettaTorre VeneziaS face, via Tissi-Andrich-BortolliA. Tissi, G. Andrich & A. Bortolli, 28 August 1933VI-TD+, VI-, 450ma7, 30 (p.412), 31
73CivettaTorre TriesteS face, Carlesso-SandriR. Carlesso & B. Sandri, 7-8 August 1934VI+/A3ED, VI-/A0 (VIII-), 650ma, b30 (p.388)
74CivettaCima Su AltoNW face, Livanos Dihedral/Diedro LivanosG. Livanos & R. Gabriel, 10-12 September 1951VI/A3ED, VI+/A2 (VII-/VII), 550m-30 (p.426)
75CivettaMonte CivettaNW face, SollederE. Solleder & G. Lettenbauer, August 1925VI-/A1TD+, V+/A0 (VI), 1000m-30 (p.432)
76CivettaPunta CivettaNW face, Andrich-FaèA. Andrich & E. Faè, 23-24 August 1943VI/A2V+/A0 (VI+), 770ma30 (p.442)
77CivettaTorre di ValgrandeNW face, Carlesso-MentiR. Carlesso & M. Menti, 15-17 July 1936VI/A2VI-/A1 (VII+), 400ma, b30 (p.450)
78DolomitesMonte PelmoN face, Rossi-SimonF. Simon & R. Rossi, 11-12 August 1924VI-V+/VI-, 880ma30 (p.532)
79Cortina DolomitesTofana di RozesSE face, Pilastro di RozesE. Constantini & R. Apollonio, 1944VI/A2ED, V+/A2 (VII), 500ma, b, c7, 31
80DolomitesSchiaraS pillarW. Gross & T. Hiebeler, 16 August 1962VI-/A2TD-, 5a/A0 (5b), 500ma30 (p.570), 33 (r.60)
80aFanesCima ScotoniSW face, Direttissima ScoiatolliL. Lacedelli, L. Ghedina & G. Lorenzi, 10-12 June 1952VI+/A0ED, VI/A1 (VIII-), 450ma, b, c31, 32 (p.380)
81PomagagnonPunta FiamesSE ridge, Spigolo Jori/JorikanteK. Bröske & F. Jori, 19 August 1909VV, 450ma, b, c31, 32 (p.592)
82-Rocchetta AltaN face, Via NavasaF. Baschera, C. Dal Bosco & M. Navasa, June 1965VI-/A1TD+, 5c/A0 (6b), 550ma, b7, 30 (p.550), 33 (r.91)
83-Sorella di MezzoNW faceE. Comici & G. Fabjan, 26-27 August 1929VI---
84Sexten Dolomites-Drei ZinnenWestliche ZinneN face, Schweizer FühreH. Weber & A. Schelbert, 1959VI/A3VI/A3 (VIII+), 450ma32 (p.530)
85Sexten Dolomites-Drei ZinnenGrosse ZinneDirect N face, Hasse-BrandlerD. Hasse, L. Brandler, J. Lehne & S. Löw, 6-10 July 1958VI/A3VI/A2 (7a+), 550ma, b, c32 (p.514)
86Sexten Dolomites-Drei ZinnenKleine ZinneS ridge, Spigolo Giallo/Gelbe KanteE. Comici, M. Varale & R. Zanutti, 8 September 1933VI-/A1V+/A0 (VI+), 350ma7, 31, 32 (p.492)
87Sexten DolomitesEinserkofelN ridge, Weg der JugendH. Steger & P. Wiesinger, 1928VI-/A1VI-, 800m-32 (p.582)
88Sexten DolomitesZwölferkogelN ridge, SchranzhoferA Schranzhofer & F. SchranzhoferVI-/A1ED-, VI+, 700m-32 (p.586)
89Lienz DolomitesLaserzwandDirect N faceG. Thaler & G. Leinweber, 1939V---
90Julian AlpsGamsmutterturmN ridge, Deye-PetersA. Deye & R. Peters, 16-17 August 1929VI-/A1---
91MartuljekSpikDirect N faceM. Debelak & S. Tominsek, 1926V+/A1V+, 900ma-
92DachsteinTorsteinS faceR. Schinko & A. Bischofsberger, 1934VI-/A15c+/6a, 850m--
93DachsteinHohes DirndlS face, MaixkanteK. Maix & W. Höfler, 9 September 1929V+-a-
94DachsteinGrosser KoppenkarsteinDirect SE pillar-VI/A1---
95DachsteinGrosse BisschofsmützeDirect N faceW. End & H. Dubowy, 3 August 1948VI/A2VI+/A0 (VII)a33 (p.44-45)
96DachsteinDäumlingE ridgeS. Lichtenegger & L. Macherhammer, 11 September 1932V+/A1VI/A0 (VII-)a, b33 (p.27)
97GesäuseRosskuppeNW ridge, RosskuppenkanteF. Hinterberger & K. Sixt, 17 August 1925V-/A1V+/A0, 600ma-
98GesäuseDachlN face, DiagonalrissL. Scheiblehner & K. Gollmeyer, 1955VI/A2---
99HochschwabStangenwand (Nebengipfel)SE faceR. Schinko, F. Sikorovsky & O. Pschenitschnik, 1938VI/A2-a-
100HochschwabSchartenspitzeW ridgeR. Schinko & A. BischofsbergerV/A1-a, b-

References

1. Le Massif des Ecrins – Les 100 plus belles courses et randonnée, Gaston Rébuffat, Denoël, , ISBN 2207252329
2. Guide du Haut-Dauphiné – Massif des Ecrins, tome 2, partie est, François Labande and Groupe de Haute Montagne, Carthothèque, 2007, ISBN 291287830
3. Guide du Haut Dauphiné – Massif des Ecrins, tome 1, partie nord, François Labande and Groupe de Haute Montagne, Editions de l’Envol, 2007, ISBN 2912878292
4. Gebietsführer Mont Blanc Gruppe, Hartmut Eberlein, Bergverlag Rother, 2005, ISBN 3763324143
5. Mont Blanc Massif: The 100 finest routes, Gaston Rébuffat, Mountaineers Books, 1996, ISBN 0898864779
6. Mont Blanc Massif: volume I, Lindsay Griffin, Alpine Club, 1990, ISBN 0900523573
7. Topoguide Band I: Kletterführer Alpen, V bis VIII, Volker Roth and Nicole Luzar, Topoguide, ISBN 3000162046
8. Snow, Ice and Mixed: volume II, François Damilano, JM Editions, 2005, ISBN 2952188149 (Follow-up of Neige, Glace et Mixte, François Damilano, 1996 –out of print-)
9. Snow, Ice and Mixed: volume I, François Damilano, JM Editions, 2005, ISBN 2952188122 (Follow-up of Neige, Glace et Mixte, François Damilano, 1996 –out of print-)
10. Mont Blanc Massif: volume II, Lindsay Griffin, Alpine Club, 1990, ISBN 0900523581
11. Clubführer Berner Alpen 3, Christoph Blum, SAC Verlag, 1994, ISBN 3859021334
12. Clubführer Berner Alpen 5, Ueli Mosimann, SAC Verlag, 1996, ISBN 3859021559
13. Schweiz Plaisir West, Jürg von Känel, Filidor, 2004, ISBN 3906087190
14. Hochtouren Berner Alpen, Ueli Mosiman, SAC Verlag, 2006, ISBN 3859022547
15. Clubführer Urner Alpen 3, Toni Füllin & Andi Banholzer, SAC Verlag, 1999, ISBN 3859021723
16. Schweiz Plaisir Extrem West, Sandro von Känel, Filidor, 2010, ISBN 3906087271
17. Schweiz Plaisir Ost, Jürg von Känel, Filidor, 2007, ISBN 390608728X
18. Clubführer Urner Alpen 2, Toni Fullin & Andi Banholzer, SAC Verlag, 2003, ISBN 3859022229
19. Salbit Erleben, Hans Berger, Jonas Gessler & Jürg von Känel, Filidor, 2009, ISBN 3906087212
20. Schweiz Plaisir Süd, Jürg von Känel, Filidor, 2004, ISBN 3906087174
21. Clubführer Bündner Alpen 4, Ruedi Meier & Peter Alig, SAC Verlag, 2006, ISBN 3859022522
22. Alpine Rotsklimmen, Koen Hauchecorne, VBSF, 2004
23. Alpenvereinsführer Wetterstein, Stefan Beulke, Bergverlag Rother, 1996, ISBN 376331119X
24. Kletterführer Wetterstein Nord, Christian Pfanzelt & Sebastian Buchwieser, Panico-Verlag, 2008, ISBN 3926807496
25. Kletterführer Bayerische Alpen – Nordtirol, Richard Goedeke, Bergverlag Rother, 2009, ISBN 376333016X
26. Alpenvereinsführer Kaisergebirge extrem, Pit Schubert, Bergverlag Rother, 2000, ISBN 3763312722
27. Kletterführer Wilder Kaiser Band 2, Markus Stadler, Panico-Verlag, 2004, ISBN 3936740135
28. Kletterführer Wilder Kaiser Band 1, Markus Stadler, Panico-Verlag, 2009, ISBN 3936740062
29. Alpenvereinsführer Berchtesgadener Alpen, Bernard Kühnhauser, Bergverlag Rother, 2009, ISBN 3763311279
30. Dolomiten vertikal: Band Süd, Lobo-edition, 2005, ISBN 3934650058
31. Felsparadies Dolomiten, Anette Köhler & Norbert Memmel, Bergverlag Rother, 2001, ISBN 3763379873
32. Dolomiten vertikal: Band Nord, Lobo-edition, 2010, ISBN 3934650107
33. Les Dolomites Orientales – Les 100 plus belles courses et randonneés, Gino Buscaini, Denoël, 1993, ISBN 220722953X
34. Kletterführer Hofpürglhütte, D. Herzog & H. Sudra, Eigenverlag, 2009, Topo

Images

Cover Im extremen Fels