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I felt this was the crux of... [ Sizes: Orig | Small | Thumb ]
I felt this was the crux of...
I felt this was the crux of the south-to-north traverse of the Maroon Bells (July 16, 2005). Note the climbers for a sense of scale. The orange marks class 4 or less and the red marks class 5 (I would say in the 5.3-5.4 range). I would definitely rappel it if doing the north-to-south traverse.


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Viewing: 1-8 of 8

DigglerLooks exposed!

Voted 10/10

Did you guys rope up? Looks like some fun climbing!
Posted Jul 18, 2005 4:09 pm

AndyRe: Looks exposed!

Hasn't voted

We didn't rope up. The holds were very good and we just took our time and were very careful. You're right though, I fall there probably wouldn't be a good idea.
Posted Jul 20, 2005 11:55 am

truchasHmmm

Voted 10/10

This is what I refer to as the second crux which I thought was easier than the other crux. I downclimbed and upclimbed this without rope.
Posted Jul 18, 2005 6:05 pm

AndyRe: Hmmm

Hasn't voted

That's interesting. Maybe we avoided your first crux somehow. I definitely thought this was the hardest thing for us.
Posted Jul 20, 2005 11:56 am

truchasRe: Hmmm

Voted 10/10

That chimney that you said you would not downclimb was the crux I thought was harder. The one that had a slight overhang. Maybe it was because I had a big pack hanging off my back but I downclimbed and upclimbed this crux and didn't think it was that bad. To each his own I guess. This one definitely had more exposure so maybe that is the difference.
Posted Jul 21, 2005 9:32 pm

Aaron JohnsonGreat Route Photo

Voted 10/10

Good job on this one, Andy!
Posted Jul 18, 2005 7:40 pm

AndyRe: Holy Sh*t!

Hasn't voted

I didn't even pay attention to see what the pro looked like. The party we were following did have a rope in case one of their members got scared (she didn't), but I think they would have just hip belayed her from the top. The hard part is so short (20'-30') that setting up anchors and placing protection would just take a lot of time and effort. It's better just to grit your teeth and go for it IMHO.

If that looks scary and you're willing to carry a rope and harness then you might as well go N-to-S so you don't have to worry about pro (just bring some webbing and a couple of rap rings).
Posted Oct 27, 2006 5:51 pm

Liba Hardekopftraverse

Voted 10/10

I heard that it is easier to traverse North to South...
Great photo and gives a good idea about what to expect.
Posted Jul 24, 2009 11:56 pm

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 South to North Traverse (Route)


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 North Maroon Peak (Mountain/Rock)


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Image Data

Submitted by Andy
on Jul 18, 2005 2:48 pm

Image ID: 115318
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Lat/Lon: 39.07610°N / 106.9867°W



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