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The Climbers Memorial at the...

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The Climbers Memorial at the Base Camp of Dhaulagiri I (8167m, 26795'), Nepal. 1994 Photo: Alois Smrz.

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Craig Peer

What an ice wall!

Hasn't voted

What a fantastic looking place! I'd like to go there sometime, but climbing that would be out of the question. I'd just like to be there!

Posted May 8, 2003 12:01 pm


	asmrz	Re: What an ice wall!
	Hasn't voted	Craig: Isn't this great? What an awesome mountain, viewed from BC. The rock pillar in front of the mountain was named "The Eiger" by the Swiss on 1st ascent. There are couple of new routes on the upper face going straight up, about 55-60 degrees average. The regular route on the left ridge is at the steepest about 45 degrees. It's the thin air that causes problems, the technical difficulties are manageable. The Kali Gandaki trek (aka Annapurna Trek) between Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges is wonderful and highly recommended. Alois.
		Posted May 8, 2003 12:57 pm


	asmrz	Re: What an ice wall!
	Hasn't voted	Thanks William. I hope the trek didn't change much since you were there the first time. In 1994, we hiked from the end of the road North of Pokhara to Jomsom and over Dampus and French Cols to BC. For me this was a three month trip of a lifetime. Again, thanks for your kind words re. the photos. Cheers, Alois.
		Posted May 9, 2003 2:48 pm

paule

very impressive (Dhaulagiri BC)

Hasn't voted

4 stars

Posted May 8, 2003 1:07 pm


	asmrz	Re: very impressive (Dhaulagiri BC)
	Hasn't voted	Thanks. It's a beautiful, but harsh place...
		Posted May 8, 2003 1:14 pm

Drazil

Awesome photo!!

Hasn't voted

I know a group who atempted that climb in 2002. Nearly made it had it not been for the weather. See www.mountain-link.com for photos taken on the expedition.

Thanks for sharing,

Liz

Posted May 12, 2003 12:55 pm


	asmrz	Re: Awesome photo!!
	Hasn't voted	Thanks Liz. The regular routes on these peaks are doable in good weather, impossible in bad. I got within 700-900 feet of the summit in 1994 and had to turn back when strong wind picked up in mid day. Four people from our party summitted one and two days before, in cloudless, windless conditions. Weather makes all the difference. Again glad you liked the picture. Cheers, Alois.
		Posted May 12, 2003 1:49 pm

Andinistaloco

4 stars!

Voted 10/10

That face is intimidating as hell.....

Posted Jun 22, 2005 2:02 am


	asmrz	Re: 4 stars!
	Hasn't voted	Well, if you get on the face, it really is not that bad. What is a problem, is the icefall going from right to left in the picture ( in the background), bellow the Eiger (the rock formation). The ice slopes above the Eiger, are about 50-55 degrees with a few steps. There are at least two routes above the Eiger done years ago. The Original Swiss route follows the icefall and the left side of the picture and is less steep. The problem is the thin air and the fact that everyone moves slowly. Combined with the size of the peak, it's somewhat of a adventure to be on those slopes. Glad you like the photo. It's wonderful peak to see from safety of BC, once you are on it's slopes, its another story.
		Posted Jun 23, 2005 11:30 am


	Andinistaloco	Re: 4 stars!
	Voted 10/10	SO you took a shot at this one, hey? Good on ya. Did you make the summit? Dhaulagiri's a serious undertaking. I hiked by it a bunch of years back and at the time didn't think I was ready for a peak that size and difficulty. Plus, it looked pretty damn scary from the east. Now I'm about ready, and alas, all of my old climbing partners are either married or dead....
		Posted Jun 24, 2005 2:04 am


	asmrz	Re: 4 stars!
	Hasn't voted	Eight of us from Southern California had trip of a lifetime in 1994. See the Dhaulagiri Trip Reports and Summit Log for our story. I went solo from Camp 4 two days after 4 team members summited, but the weather changed, strong winds picked up and I had to turn back at about 7.800m. Two other team members got to 8,000m the next morning, but also turned back just few hundred feet short of the summit (at the base of the summit gully) as wind completely stopped all progress. The NE Ridge is very good route as original route on these big peaks go. I think this and Makalu Regular Route over Makalu La are really worth doing.
		Posted Jun 24, 2005 11:38 am