| Disaster Factor | [ Sizes: Orig | Med | Small | Thumb ] |
Brian leading Disaster Factor (5.8/5.9) on Middle East Wall. He (wisely) decided to back up that #4 Big Bro with a nut in the right crack before commiting to the crux squeeze section below the second chockstone. The route continues up inside the chimney above. Fun climb.
Comments
[ Post a Comment ]| rpc | cool chimney | | 
Voted 10/10 | can you protect the right crack instead?
Nice shot & cool looking route. | | Posted Mar 14, 2007 12:32 am |
 | | Martin Cash | Re: cool chimney | | 
Hasn't voted | Thanks man. Yeah, you can protect the right crack until the 2nd chockstone. It doesn't feel pure but is safer. That Big Pro placement is fairly marginal. Maybe walking a #9 Valley Giant cam would be better. Kinda stiff for a 5.8 just above where he is. The chimney above takes aliens deep in the back.
We also TRed Jihad again and lead the usual stuff. Good times. | | Posted Mar 14, 2007 12:49 am |
| | pvalchev | Re: cool chimney | | 
Voted 10/10 | Looks like an advertisement for double ropes to me!! ;) Very cool looking routes on that wall, have to make it there sometime... | | Posted Mar 15, 2007 12:15 am |
| | Martin Cash | Re: cool chimney | |
Hasn't voted | Yeah, the routes over there are all pretty nice. You shouldn't need doubles for this climb. You belay from the top of the wall, which is about 90 feet up, so a 50 meter is too short, if rapping off one of the anchors up there. | | Posted Mar 15, 2007 4:47 pm |
| | pvalchev | Re: cool chimney | |
Voted 10/10 | I just meant that with doubles you can protect both cracks with no rope drag (otherwise I imagine he had to put a long sling when putting that right piece).
Glad to see this picture got the attention it deserves! | | Posted Mar 15, 2007 6:18 pm |
| wuedesau | Strong Man | | 
Hasn't voted | Seems that Brian pushed away the left column | | Posted Mar 15, 2007 8:10 am |
| | nurettin | Re: Strong Man | | 
Hasn't voted | :) Yeah.. | | Posted Mar 15, 2007 10:56 am |
| Brad Marshall | Nice Shot | | 
Hasn't voted | Good shot Martin, it really gives the climb perspective. | | Posted Mar 15, 2007 4:28 pm |
| | Martin Cash | Re: Nice Shot | |
Hasn't voted | Thanks a lot for the nice comments Brad. | | Posted Mar 15, 2007 4:42 pm |
| Diggler | As soon as I saw this pick, I thought... | | 
Voted 10/10 | looks like a sweet climb- sick-looking basalt columns shooting straight up? Gotta be one of Martin's shots. Nice one! | | Posted Mar 15, 2007 5:46 pm |
| | Martin Cash | Re: As soon as I saw this pick, I thought... | |
Hasn't voted | Thanks a lot Dirk. | | Posted Mar 15, 2007 7:52 pm |
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