SummitPost - Weeping Rock Chimney, 5.7 -- Photos, Diagrams & Topos

Weeping Rock Chimney, 5.7/ 185’-

Weeping Rock Chimney is a delightful training corner/chimney. I took a fellow SPer on her first ever trad multi pitch up this route. The first pitch does not get much better, perfect crack to place gear on the left while slinging a tree to the right. Continue up a ramp that rides into the shaded chimney. As it steepens, you end up with two cracks on either side of the ramp. Place all the gear you want, switch to the right crack until you reach a webbing anchor on bolts on the right wall of the chimney. The is a very comfortable spot to bring up the second and set up your belay for the next pitch. The 2nd pitch is a classic chimney squeeze where you actually have to move out into space to find enough room to proceed upward in the chimney. It is quite dirty as most appear to climb the first pitch only. There are some loose blocks you want to avoid, but plenty of other features to utilize. Half way up is a rusted bolt/hanger on the left wall no doubt placed as most pro at that point is into large loose blocks. Continue playing the walls back and forth until you hit a rusty bolted station on the left wall. Again, this belay provides a super platform in which to bring up the 2nd. The whole chimney provides total and complete shade making for a very comfortable climb even on hot days. Rap the route.
Zion National Park, May, 2007.