5.9, 1200m, Fa Chris Lawrence, Philip Stone & Corrie Wright, June 10-11 1989

One of the most difficult of the East face summer routes climbs the buttress leading to the NE peak. Start up at the toe of the NW peak then after about 75m traverse left along the big treed ledge to Direttissima Couloir. Stay left to avoid the overhangs and climb towards the gully. Lead a few difficult pitches up steep blocky ground. Generally climb about 25m – 75m to the right of the Direttissima couloir. There is 100’s of meters of 4th class climbing, and then some harder 5th class pitches. The bottom half of the route is the most difficult. The top half is 4th –low 5th class. The climb finishes at the NE col between the NE peak and the main summit. From the NE col climb the blocky ridge south for 30m then traverse along the right (west) side of the main summit on talus ledges. Scramble up 4th class blocks for about 50m to the main summit.Head south over the main summit to the south peaks, then down to the south col and foster lake.

Essential Gear

set of nuts + 5-10 cams

External Links

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