Still the classic route through the Tällistock South Face is one of the most rewarding climbs in the Bernese Alps and it's exposed traverse ("luftige Quergang") is legendary (Schweiz Plaisir Extrem, 2008).
The Inwyler-Bielmeier was the first route through the South wall of the Tällistock. The Tällistock is a very impressive mountain high above the Gadmental / Gadmenvalley. The Tällistock (2579 m / 8461 ft) is located in the eastern part of the Bernese Alps. When driving along the Sustenpass road you can't miss the beautiful south wall of the Tällistock.The South wall of the Tällistock is 450 meters high. The wall is close to vertical or even overhanging. The rock quality (limestone) is pretty good to Bernese Alps standards, although there are some parts with loose rock.
In 1960 S. Inwyler and A. Bielmeier managed to found a way through South wall of the Tällistock. Back then, this was certently a remarkable and stunning achievement. The route had the magical UIAA VI grade, which used to be the most difficult grade in alpine climbing.
In 1994 a team of mountain guides decided to re-bolt the Inwyler-Bielmeier. The old pegs where dangerous and led to decreasing interest in the route. In order to maintain the character of the route they only re-bolted the belays and some difficult or dangerous passages.
Altogether a very fine climb. Be sure to be able to tackle the difficulties, because a descent down the route is very difficult due to the traverses and overhangs. The climbing on the Tällistock is very exposed which requires a very high level of confidence from the climber. That's why I think this route still is a classic and challenging adventure.
Getting ThereIn general: please check out the Tällistock page on Summitpost.
To the start of the route: Behind the Tällihütte there is a path which leads to Klettersteig/Via Ferrata. Follow this path (eastern direction) for about 200 meters and then turn left, before a small stream. Start climbed the grassy slopes beneath the south wall of the Tällistock and head slightly left (when looking up). A about 2000 meters one reaches the first rock band (tracks). Traverse east (right) after the first rock band and reach a second rock band (tracks). Again, head easy and reach a third rock band. Climb the third rock band by using the fixed ropes. After the third rock band you'll soon arrive at the start of the route. The start is about 50 meters left of the obvious pillar.
Route DescriptionThe following description is partly based on my own experience and on information from the Schweiz Plaisir Extrem Guidebook. Another good guidebook to consult is the SAC Clubführer - Urner Alpen Band 3.
|Pitch||Description||Lenght and grade|
|1.||Start at some old slings on small grassy band. Climb slightly left. There are two old pegs on this pitch.||40 meters, 4c|
|2.||Head up straight and reach the old belay point. Continue left through a gully which should give no problems.||40 meters, 5c|
|3.||The first testpiece of the route. A short pitch. Traverse left, which looks more difficult than it is. There are some good holds, but some of them are loose. So be carefull, because the protection is not allways good.||30 meters, 6a|
|4.||This felt like the crux pitch. A very long and overhanging pitch. The roof just above the belay is pretty hard for it's grade. Fortunatly they placed a solid bolt at the roof.||45 meters, 6a+|
|5.||A short pitch without great difficulties. The next belay is on the right side of the gully||20 meters, 5c+|
|6.||Head up straight and don't climb to far inside the chimney. Exit the chimney on it's left side.||35 meters, 6a-|
|7.||The only not so clear pitch (as for routefinding). It is adviced not to go too far to the right, or you probably will miss the next belay point.||25 meters, 5c+|
|8.||The famous traverse! Due to the bolts not the crux anymore. Still it is very exposed!||25 meters, 6a-|
|9.||The first meters above the belay are not very easy, so watch out. Then at the end of the pitch there are two options. The easiest one goes right.||30 meters, 6a+|
|10.||A classic pitch. Not to difficult but the protection is rather bad.||25 meters, 5c+|
|11.||One of the best pitches. Especially the water groves at the end of the pitch are really fun to climb.||30 meters, 5c+|
|12.||A pitch with very loose rock. Climb the chimney by accesing it from it's right side.||20 meters, 6a-|
|13.||A short walk to reach the exit chimney.||30 meters, 3a|
|14.||It is "only" 5b..but for modern climbers definitely a difficult pitch. The wide chimney requires a special climbing technique and could give some trouble if you're not used to this kind of climbing.||40 meters, 5b|
Descent: do not rappel down the route! There is a much safer descent through the "Naht", which is a steep gully 450 meters east of the exit point. Just follow the summitridge in eastern direction. After about 450 meters (horizontal) you'll reach a large "steinmann" which marks the beginning of the descent. Walk/climb/rappel down this gully. Their are some rappel stations with solid bolts and it is pretty easy to find. Beneath the gully one soon reaches the path to the Tällihütte. About 2 hours from the summit to the Tällihütte.
Essential Gear, Maps and GuidebooksEssential Gear
As mentioned, the route is partly re-bolted in 1994. There are also a lot of old pegs in place, but they are in pretty bad shape. As ever, the number of nuts/cams is depending on your own level of confidence and climbing skills. It's probably best to save weight and take your pack with you, because the climb to the base of the route is pretty exhausting after a long day. From our own experience I recommend to take:
1. One light backpack for a team
2. A small set of nuts
3. Some cams or friends
4. About 12 quickdraws
5. At least a 50 meter twin/double rope
6. Enough water, south face!
7. Light weight approach shoes
8. Your normal rock climbing gear, like helmet and rock climbing shoes
Map 1:25 000:
- SAC Map: 1210 Innertkirchen
Map 1:50 000:
- SAC Map: 255 Sustenpass
- SAC Guidebook: Clubführer Urner Alpen Band 3 - Vom Susten zum Uristock, T.Fullin and A.Banholzer , ISBN: 978-3-85902-172-3
- Schweiz Plaisir Extrem Band 1, Filidor, ISBN: 3-906087-27-1
To order SAC Maps: www.toposhop.ch
To order SAC Guidebook: www.sac-cas.ch
To order Schweiz Plaisir Extrem: www.filidor.ch
External LinksTällihütte 1720 m
Isabelle & Christian Philipp
Phone (hut): +41 (0) 33 982 36 11
Other useful links:
WSL Institute for Snow and Avalanche Research SLF - Avalance Bulletin
Weather Forecast - Detailed weather forecast by Meteoschweiz
Railroad information - Railroad schedule
Bus information - Postbus schedule
Gadmen - Tourist Office Gadmen