Going by the expressions on peoples faces as they toiled up the slopes and we descended, the decision to camp at the lake (rather than do it from base camp) definitely appeared to be a good one. A night at around 5000m to prepare for Tocllaraju climb, great views of the mountain in evening light and having no-one else around (after the 40 or 50 tents of base camp) made this a very pleasant experience.
Cissa - May 22, 2014 9:51 pm Date Climbed: May 22, 2014
Up SW down NW
Not very good snow conditions, but a an interesting exercise for acclimatization. Moraine is endless.
The last couple of days of our vacation we decided to climb Ishinca AND use the Refugio. After a month of cooking outside and sleeping on the floor this was a treat!!
Original plan was to go up the SW ridge and back but as we reached the bergschrund we saw the possibility to quickly skirt down and around to the right. Super glad we did that. A much more technical route that had us popping up a gully just below the summit ridge.
From there is was an easy walk down the NW slopes in perfect weather. Up and down in less than 24 hrs was a bit quick. Next time I'll take the time to explore the many bouldering opportunities along the way.
Jake - Jun 24, 2013 3:54 pm Date Climbed: Jun 18, 2013
Great day
Climbed via normal route with Jacek R. Great conditions and really nice climb with steep snow finish to the summit. Perfect views! Highly recommended!
Cal - Jun 18, 2013 10:34 pm Date Climbed: Jun 10, 2013
Left side- easy moraine
Took the left side of the glacier from the Ishinca Lake refuge, which was easily accessed for lack of a difficult moraine (consider that most peaks are rated in difficulty for their glaciers but the moraine in the CB is often much more troublesome!).
The glacier was more or less a walk and without open crevasses (one burgeoning crack) but became a fun 55-60 degree, 35 meter slope on the final push. Perfect acclimation climb on a rare good weather day for such a bad weather season. Views of Ranrapalca.
Alberto Rampini - Dec 22, 2012 6:28 pm Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2002
NW route
Easy ascent, beautiful views.
tb00957 - Aug 10, 2012 5:08 pm Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2012
ishinca
beautiful view.
Silvia Mazzani - Aug 22, 2011 5:13 pm Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2002
Ishinca North-East Ridge
Last summit of a magnificent expedition in Cordillera Blanca.
andret - Aug 13, 2011 8:48 am Date Climbed: May 30, 2011
Traverse
From NW to SW. Good fun. Rap or down climb the bergschrund--it can be a little exciting!
Up by the SW ridge, down the other side along the NW slopes. Beautiful day, beautiful climb and outstanding views from the summit! I saw at least 9 other climbers on the mountain.
Apart from one very short part, it was an easy climb.
On the SW side there is a tricky bergschrund some 10, 15 m below the summit. There was a partial snow bridge on the right, and another full one on the left. The trail went over the partial bridge, and directly on the other side was a steepish section to the summit. Nót the thing you want on the other side of a tricky bridge ...
I had a look at the snow bridge on the left, but didn´t fancy being the first to test it, and opted for the right hand side instead. I presume that pretty soon, when the bridge on the right crumbles away further, climbers will have to try going left instead.
By the way, I´m glad I didn´t try to do the traverse the other way around, because on the descent from the summit towards the SW it would be very easy to end up in the bergschrund, as I had heard from a climber from another party that had just done that. No harm done, they saw the danger in time and rappelled from the summit, so entering the schrund was only an inconvenience. I didn´t have that luxury, I was soloing. So, while going up the SW route was a bit tricky, descending it alone would be very dangerous indeed.
to a great summit. Only the last part presents any kind of technical issues, and even those aren't too bad - just watch your step. Perfect views of Ranrapalca!
Superb views of several peaks including Huantsan, Ranrapalca, Palcaraju, Toclla and many more. Nothing technical but need to be acclimatized before attempting it. I went from sea level to its 5550m summitt in less than 3 days and ended summitting at noon. Snow conditions deteriorated rapidly and had to avoid several crevasses and rocks falling on the Northern slopes.
dwalters1 - Oct 20, 2009 1:27 pm Date Climbed: Jun 1, 2007
Ishinca
Ishinca valley is a great place to acclimatize - and getting on Ishinca itself is a good primer to Tocllaraju. Very easy climb, no crevasse danger.
MRoyer4 - Sep 30, 2009 5:39 pm Date Climbed: Jun 9, 2009
SW Ridge
A good peak for acclimatization: easy walk up with nice views. Paired it with Ranrapalca. Laguna Ishinca provides nice camping away from the crowds in Quebrada Ishinca. It is possible to make it there in a single push from Pashpa if you are fit.
oliverkalt - Aug 7, 2009 2:28 am Date Climbed: May 27, 2001
Normal route
Acclimatization climb from Quebreda Ishinca. Amazing views on icy giants all around
It was the first time I put crampons on... A beautiful mountain...
FlatheadJim - Jul 3, 2009 4:51 pm Date Climbed: Jun 3, 2006
Normal route
Standard route, nice trip with 3 Canadian friends
Ario - Jul 2, 2009 10:02 am Date Climbed: Jun 26, 2009
Ascent via Northwest Slopes & Northeast ridge; descent via Southwest ridge
Reached the summit with fellow Alpine Club of Canada (Montreal section) member Charlotte following our trekking guide Edgar Lalo in perfect weather: sunny and no wind. Ascent was via the Northwest Slopes and the Northeast ridge (PD-) and descent via the Southwest ridge (F). Left base camp (4400m) at 02:00, summited at 08:30. Privilege of our UIAA membership we had no obligation of hiring a mountain guide and opted for a trekking guide to secure the route finding in the night knowing Charlotte had this only one try to bag a mountaineering peak in the Cordillera Blanca.
kevin trieu - Jun 22, 2009 1:06 pm Date Climbed: Jun 12, 2009
with Ranrapalca
good to acclimatize on. no need to rope up. climbed from the Ishinca Lake.
Timothy Pearl - Aug 15, 2008 11:13 am Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2008
Yes, 2 days...
Read Eric's below...ps... unassisted. Gorgeous place. 34 miles, 30 hours, 7,500 vertical. Longest rainy walk ever for 1 quickie. Well worth having the summit to ourselves in perfect conditions. Fun to sit on the summit and view where our ride was picking us up 17 miles away in 8 hours.
markthejock - Jul 13, 2014 1:28 pm Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2014
NE RidgeGoing by the expressions on peoples faces as they toiled up the slopes and we descended, the decision to camp at the lake (rather than do it from base camp) definitely appeared to be a good one. A night at around 5000m to prepare for Tocllaraju climb, great views of the mountain in evening light and having no-one else around (after the 40 or 50 tents of base camp) made this a very pleasant experience.
Cissa - May 22, 2014 9:51 pm Date Climbed: May 22, 2014
Up SW down NWNot very good snow conditions, but a an interesting exercise for acclimatization. Moraine is endless.
Humberto - Jul 25, 2013 10:46 pm
Straight up the middle!!The last couple of days of our vacation we decided to climb Ishinca AND use the Refugio. After a month of cooking outside and sleeping on the floor this was a treat!!
Original plan was to go up the SW ridge and back but as we reached the bergschrund we saw the possibility to quickly skirt down and around to the right. Super glad we did that. A much more technical route that had us popping up a gully just below the summit ridge.
From there is was an easy walk down the NW slopes in perfect weather. Up and down in less than 24 hrs was a bit quick. Next time I'll take the time to explore the many bouldering opportunities along the way.
Jake - Jun 24, 2013 3:54 pm Date Climbed: Jun 18, 2013
Great dayClimbed via normal route with Jacek R. Great conditions and really nice climb with steep snow finish to the summit. Perfect views! Highly recommended!
Cal - Jun 18, 2013 10:34 pm Date Climbed: Jun 10, 2013
Left side- easy moraineTook the left side of the glacier from the Ishinca Lake refuge, which was easily accessed for lack of a difficult moraine (consider that most peaks are rated in difficulty for their glaciers but the moraine in the CB is often much more troublesome!).
The glacier was more or less a walk and without open crevasses (one burgeoning crack) but became a fun 55-60 degree, 35 meter slope on the final push. Perfect acclimation climb on a rare good weather day for such a bad weather season. Views of Ranrapalca.
Alberto Rampini - Dec 22, 2012 6:28 pm Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2002
NW routeEasy ascent, beautiful views.
tb00957 - Aug 10, 2012 5:08 pm Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2012
ishincabeautiful view.
Silvia Mazzani - Aug 22, 2011 5:13 pm Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2002
Ishinca North-East RidgeLast summit of a magnificent expedition in Cordillera Blanca.
andret - Aug 13, 2011 8:48 am Date Climbed: May 30, 2011
TraverseFrom NW to SW. Good fun. Rap or down climb the bergschrund--it can be a little exciting!
rgg - Jul 28, 2011 5:44 pm Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2011
Up and overUp by the SW ridge, down the other side along the NW slopes. Beautiful day, beautiful climb and outstanding views from the summit! I saw at least 9 other climbers on the mountain.
Apart from one very short part, it was an easy climb.
On the SW side there is a tricky bergschrund some 10, 15 m below the summit. There was a partial snow bridge on the right, and another full one on the left. The trail went over the partial bridge, and directly on the other side was a steepish section to the summit. Nót the thing you want on the other side of a tricky bridge ...
I had a look at the snow bridge on the left, but didn´t fancy being the first to test it, and opted for the right hand side instead. I presume that pretty soon, when the bridge on the right crumbles away further, climbers will have to try going left instead.
By the way, I´m glad I didn´t try to do the traverse the other way around, because on the descent from the summit towards the SW it would be very easy to end up in the bergschrund, as I had heard from a climber from another party that had just done that. No harm done, they saw the danger in time and rappelled from the summit, so entering the schrund was only an inconvenience. I didn´t have that luxury, I was soloing. So, while going up the SW route was a bit tricky, descending it alone would be very dangerous indeed.
Andinistaloco - Jul 2, 2011 10:58 pm
Long glacier walkto a great summit. Only the last part presents any kind of technical issues, and even those aren't too bad - just watch your step. Perfect views of Ranrapalca!
iechegar - Jul 9, 2010 7:34 pm Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2010
Traverse up Southwest down Northwest slopesSuperb views of several peaks including Huantsan, Ranrapalca, Palcaraju, Toclla and many more. Nothing technical but need to be acclimatized before attempting it. I went from sea level to its 5550m summitt in less than 3 days and ended summitting at noon. Snow conditions deteriorated rapidly and had to avoid several crevasses and rocks falling on the Northern slopes.
dwalters1 - Oct 20, 2009 1:27 pm Date Climbed: Jun 1, 2007
IshincaIshinca valley is a great place to acclimatize - and getting on Ishinca itself is a good primer to Tocllaraju. Very easy climb, no crevasse danger.
MRoyer4 - Sep 30, 2009 5:39 pm Date Climbed: Jun 9, 2009
SW RidgeA good peak for acclimatization: easy walk up with nice views. Paired it with Ranrapalca. Laguna Ishinca provides nice camping away from the crowds in Quebrada Ishinca. It is possible to make it there in a single push from Pashpa if you are fit.
oliverkalt - Aug 7, 2009 2:28 am Date Climbed: May 27, 2001
Normal routeAcclimatization climb from Quebreda Ishinca. Amazing views on icy giants all around
Liba Kopeckova - Jul 23, 2009 1:02 pm
my first real mountainIt was the first time I put crampons on... A beautiful mountain...
FlatheadJim - Jul 3, 2009 4:51 pm Date Climbed: Jun 3, 2006
Normal routeStandard route, nice trip with 3 Canadian friends
Ario - Jul 2, 2009 10:02 am Date Climbed: Jun 26, 2009
Ascent via Northwest Slopes & Northeast ridge; descent via Southwest ridgeReached the summit with fellow Alpine Club of Canada (Montreal section) member Charlotte following our trekking guide Edgar Lalo in perfect weather: sunny and no wind. Ascent was via the Northwest Slopes and the Northeast ridge (PD-) and descent via the Southwest ridge (F). Left base camp (4400m) at 02:00, summited at 08:30. Privilege of our UIAA membership we had no obligation of hiring a mountain guide and opted for a trekking guide to secure the route finding in the night knowing Charlotte had this only one try to bag a mountaineering peak in the Cordillera Blanca.
kevin trieu - Jun 22, 2009 1:06 pm Date Climbed: Jun 12, 2009
with Ranrapalcagood to acclimatize on. no need to rope up. climbed from the Ishinca Lake.
Timothy Pearl - Aug 15, 2008 11:13 am Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2008
Yes, 2 days...Read Eric's below...ps... unassisted. Gorgeous place. 34 miles, 30 hours, 7,500 vertical. Longest rainy walk ever for 1 quickie. Well worth having the summit to ourselves in perfect conditions. Fun to sit on the summit and view where our ride was picking us up 17 miles away in 8 hours.