|[ Sizes: Orig | Large | Med | Small | Thumb ]|
1st -3rd Pitches- 200’- 5.11c/ We combined the first three pitches to avoid hanging belays. There are two options to start this route: the FAer original and Matzoland (5.12a) to the right. The original line runs up a closed corner system with seven bolts total to a fixed belay. After stemming the initial wide corner section, the crux (5.11c) comes at a very shallow corner with small edges. Desperate palming of the arête seemed to be in order. Solid hand features await above for a traverse right at a much easier grade to the first fixed station. Continue up the second pitch (5.10a) via a beautiful bowed out splitter which offers up many rest stances. At times this crack is wide enough to accept C4 #4’s, but many jams are available as well along with a few finger pulls. Eventually it leads to the parallel off-width section which is bolted out on the right wall. However, these bolts and hangers leave much to be desired (2012). A single or double racking of C4 #6 will protect this off-width section. The walls are slightly off-set, but lay back moves are difficult. I chose to stay in the crack and grunt my way up (5.10d). Arm bars, knee jams and heel to toes seemed of little use with little to no features to assist on the outside walls. The roof above is a welcome site as it is heavily featured on the outside wall. Stem out and grab a jug to pull yourself out of the off-width section to a fixed belay on a comfortable ledge.
Ixtlan, 5.11c, 8 Pitches, Ixtlan Buttress, Whiskey Peak, Red Rock, NV, February, 2012