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Iztaccihuatl Climber's Log

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pacojgarzaRoute Climbed: Arista del Sol. Date Climbed: December-27-2005  Sucess!

pacojgarza

Climbed Izta in 24 hours after climbing Nevado de Toluca, starting the hike to refugio "Grupo de los cien" late on the 26th solo and then going for the summit with the first rays of sunlight along with a group of 4 guys from Aguascalientes Mexico. Izta was very dry compared to the snow covered Popo. The weather was perfect, with sunny but hazy skies and no wind. This was the second of four volcanoes on my trip to Mexico.

Check my trip report "A good dose of thin mexican air" on El Pico de Orizaba page for details.
Posted Jan 3, 2006 3:59 am

Mike GarsideRoute Climbed: Normal route Date Climbed: 18 November 2005  Sucess!

Mike Garside

Good haul to the top on the "Chest". Shame we had no viz as we were in cloud the whole way. Still, it was a good warm up for Orizaba. Thanks Rubin.
Posted Dec 18, 2005 4:27 pm

snocatRoute Climbed: La Arista Del Sol Date Climbed: Nov. 26, 2005  Sucess!

snocat

very interesting and exciting climb. we had the summit to ourselves.
Posted Dec 15, 2005 11:16 pm

timfoltzRoute Climbed: La Arista del Sol Date Climbed: November 22, 2005  Sucess!

timfoltz

Great climb, although hardly any snow. Crampons were not necessary.
Posted Dec 6, 2005 10:56 pm

awagherRoute Climbed: Ayoloco Glacier Date Climbed: November 23rd, 2005

awagher

What forjan said. This was my second "high altitude" attempt. Strangely I began feeling symptoms of AMS at around 13.5k. By the time we arrived at our high point (+15k) I felt a bit more than drunk and quite nautious. It took me a half of an hour to figure out the math regarding my ascent (I was going 200 vertical feet per hour with 1600' left to go). I had to make the humble descision to retreat. Altitude works in mysterious ways as I had completed a 5+ hour traverse at 15k+ just a few days prior to this climb. I will go back next year to complete the Mexico volcanoes.
Posted Dec 2, 2005 12:35 am

forjanRoute Climbed: Ayoloco Route Date Climbed: November 23, 2005

forjan

Climbed with awagher. Our plan was to climb the Ayoloco route as a day hike, coming down via La Arista del Sol. We started at 2:20AM from La Joya. Lost a lot of time bushwacking in the dark in the section below the first saddle going through multiple cow paths. Partner came down with AMS and we retreated back to La Joya. Our highpoint was 4700m (15,420 ft), a bit beyond & above the Ayoloco hut. It was a cold morning (estimated upper teens before sunrise), but sunny and clear (no clouds whatsoever). awagher said he's planning to come back and try again.
Posted Nov 30, 2005 2:01 pm

ewakildRoute Climbed: Standard Date Climbed: Nov. 10, 2005  Sucess!
Surprising little snow on the mountain. It's really just a hike up - didn't really need ice ax or crampons. Only snow to be found was on belly and chest glaciers. Still a beautiful mountain with amazing views. Unbelievable amount of people at La Joya starting Saturday morning - probably around 200 all told.
Posted Nov 22, 2005 7:15 pm

Hikerchick63Route Climbed: Ayoloco Route Date Climbed: November 3, 2005  Sucess!
Guilty and I hiked to the Ayoloco Hut on 11/2/05 and then I got up and on the non existant trail around 3:45AM. I probabably got to the summit around 8AM, but couldn't be sure because Guilty had the watch. We crossed paths on my way down at the top of the Glacier. Once the sun came up, the weather conditions were actually very comfortable and excellent visability.
Posted Nov 21, 2005 8:25 pm

GuiltyRoute Climbed: Ayoloco Route Date Climbed: November 3, 2005  Sucess!

Guilty

Very cold, windy and sunny. This is my second time up this mountain. Always a pleasure to do. I brought a digital video camera to the top and took some great video of the route. If you are interested in a DVD copy, let me know.

Popo is open for a small price, and a small brain. Send me note and I will tell you how you have to work it.
Posted Nov 14, 2005 10:22 pm

ccrecenteRoute Climbed: standard route Date Climbed: October 7th, 2005
I was only able to go as far as the "knees" thanks to hurricane Stan. We spent a night at the Altzamoni hut, then hiked the next day to the Grupo de Los Cien hut. My two friends turned around halfway up due to one of them having a kidney infection (undiagnosed at the time) . There was light rain and snow most of the time on the mountain. The next day, I climbed to the "knees" with about half an hour of clear skies on the way up. Despite he weather, I had a great time as it was my first big mountain.
Posted Oct 25, 2005 9:58 pm

tpdwrRoute Climbed: Standard Route Date Climbed: February 2, 1978  Sucess!

tpdwr

Spent one night at the Knees hut. Spectacular views of Popo. No one else on the Mountain.
Posted Sep 27, 2005 2:49 am

edlRoute Climbed: Glacier de Ayoloca Date Climbed: Nov. 1997  Sucess!
Fun route. Camped in the meadow below the Ayoloco hut in a nasty thunderstorm. Awoke at midnight to perfect snow and weather condtions.
Posted Sep 25, 2005 2:03 pm

melindahalaszDate Climbed: August 13, 2005  Sucess!

melindahalasz

My favourite mountain in Mexico! In spite of the bad weather... One-day climb.
Posted Sep 11, 2005 3:52 pm

Peak_BaggerRoute Climbed: Ayoloco Date Climbed: Jan 26 2005  Sucess!

Peak_Bagger

This was a long day. We were told that the Arista route could be done in one long day. So we arrived at 8:30 am and tried to ascend via Ayoloco and the back via Arista. One of our partners bailed at the Ayocolo hut, we continued and finnally summited around 4pm. The glacier is very small, maybe 150m at most, and not very steep either (40-45 Degrees). It was very cloudy and hard to see the route along the ridge, so we decended the Ayoloco and were back at the trailhead around 9pm. We though we were stuck but luckily a truck was leaving the area and we hitched a ride back to Amecameca.
Posted Sep 9, 2005 5:14 pm

Oscar Rangel CorreaRoute Climbed: Route of teyotl Date Climbed: jul 1998  Sucess!
Good experience in my couse of middle mountain, the Teyotl to be down of the head of Iztlaccihuatl
Posted May 7, 2005 5:10 pm

soslawRoute Climbed: Ayoloco glacier Date Climbed: January 13, 2003  Sucess!

soslaw

Climbed with Andre. After failing the previous year with a guided group because one of the climbers developed AMS at the hut at the base of the glaicer, I returned with my climbing partner Andre to do the rte without a guide. We climbed the glacier via a more direct rte than that used by guided groups who essentially only traverse the base of the glacier and still call it a glacier climb. Very windy along the Arista del Sol but clear on the summit where we continued to watch Popo belch steam and ash. We spent 2 days acclimatizing at 13K where everything was covered with ash.
Posted Apr 18, 2005 2:39 pm

patascentRoute Climbed: La Arista del Sol Date Climbed: January 30, 2003  Sucess!

patascent

Day climb from La Joya because the mid mountain hut was too nasty to sleep in.
Posted Apr 6, 2005 4:26 pm

bc44caesarRoute Climbed: Arista del Sol Date Climbed: 23 Mar 2005  Sucess!

bc44caesar

Got a ride in a taxi up to La Joya from Ameca and stayed the night. Next day packed everything I had up to the hut in 2.5 hrs and then went on to the summit in another 2. Stayed the night at the hut to acclimatise better and headed on out to Tlachichuca. It was pretty windy up top, but very little snow and I never had to use crampons.
Posted Apr 1, 2005 12:43 pm

GlennMerrillRoute Climbed: La Arista del Sol Date Climbed: March 2004  Sucess!

GlennMerrill

Good climb. Had to hike out to Paso de Cortez because our taxi driver said it would a lot more to come pick us up at the end of the climb. So we told him not to pick us up, hiked out, and got a free ride down to Amecameca.
Posted Feb 27, 2005 8:04 pm

joseguzman58Route Climbed: La Arista del Sol Date Climbed: February the 6th, 2005.

joseguzman58

Went from Altzomoni to the Grupo de los Cien refuge on our first day. The big packs made the hike anything but a joke. The hut was packed, so the area around ended looking like a tent jamboree. Second day was Saturday night, complete with a group of drunks singing (they didn'have good voices, and they didn't know the song's lyrics), firing fireckrackers, and a storm howling and pumping dust inside he sleeping bags, tents, cloths, etc. The morning brought some ice, freezing rain, fog and more wind. Out of the probably 100 or 120 climbers, only six of use made a bid for the summit. Made it to the Knee (5000 meters), and decided no to risk it no more. The conditions were horrible, it was a white-out, and it was very cold. I am very pleased with having reached my first 5000 meters elevation. Pico de Orizaba was waiting for me in only two more days.
Posted Feb 10, 2005 3:58 pm

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