Getting thereBy train to Gstatterboden Nationalpark station, or by car to Gstatterboden. From there, 2 kilometers on the road towards Admont upto the parking place of Haindlkar Hut (free). Above the parking place, you can even bivaq. Coordinates of the parking place: 47.583481, 14.612013
Climbing conceptsThe most important factor is that there is no walking path to descend back to the parking place. The easiest descent is along the Peternpfad (UIAA II). Alternatively, there is a walkable path to the other side of the mountain, to the village of Johnsbach, with some sections of UIAA I+. From Johnsbach, you can climb back to Haindlkar Hut crossing the Gsengscharte, it takes 3.5 - 4 hours. I'd recommend hitch-hiking back to the parking place, it is around 10-12 kilometers on the road.
Considering the length of the route, I suggest one of the two solutions below:
1) stay at the parking place, and leave 3 hours before morning light so that you can get to the starting point of the climb when the sun rises. After summiting, descend towards Johnsbach and get back to the parking place by hitch-hike. This version is recommended for those who do not climb fast, and will not have enough time for a descending climb after summiting in daylight. The path to Johnsbach can be walked with headlight, too
2) if you climb speedy enough, stay at the Haindlkar Hut (1.5 hours walk from the parking place), leave the hut at sunrise, and after summiting, desced along the Peternpfad back to the hut
Route descriptionFrom the parking place to Haindlkar Hut you will follow a well marked path. It takes around 1.5 hours. The personnel at the hut is very friendly. From the hut, follow Peternpfad to a marked junction, showing the way to the starting point of Jahn-Zimmer route. This section is well marked, too. The climbing route itself is preatty easy to find, red signs are painted on the rock. The stands are on-hand, but if you need some more securing points, you will have to take care of it. Some friends and belts will make a good use... From the hut to the starting point it takes around 1.5 hours on walkable path, with a few UIAA I-II sections. The climbing consists of mostly II and III sections, with a few III+ ones. In my opinion, the route is somewhat under-scaled, I would rate it at least half a step higher. After rainy periods the climbing is even more complicated, the rock gets slippery. The climbing from the starting point to the leaving point should take 6 hours. On slightly wet rock, it took 10 hours to us. You should consider taking your climbing shoes. Some sections are not really comfortable in mountain boots... Find a topo here
Find my photos here