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Jahn-Zimmer route

 

Page Type: Trip Report

Location: Steyrmark, Austria, Europe

Object Title: Jahn-Zimmer route

Date Climbed/Hiked: Sep 19, 2009

Activities: Trad Climbing

 

Page By: adszhu

Created/Edited: Sep 22, 2009 / Sep 22, 2009

Object ID: 555970

Hits: 937 

Page Score: 0%  - 0 Votes 

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Getting there

By train to Gstatterboden Nationalpark station, or by car to Gstatterboden. From there, 2 kilometers on the road towards Admont upto the parking place of Haindlkar Hut (free). Above the parking place, you can even bivaq. Coordinates of the parking place: 47.583481, 14.612013

Climbing concepts

The most important factor is that there is no walking path to descend back to the parking place. The easiest descent is along the Peternpfad (UIAA II). Alternatively, there is a walkable path to the other side of the mountain, to the village of Johnsbach, with some sections of UIAA I+. From Johnsbach, you can climb back to Haindlkar Hut crossing the Gsengscharte, it takes 3.5 - 4 hours. I'd recommend hitch-hiking back to the parking place, it is around 10-12 kilometers on the road.
Considering the length of the route, I suggest one of the two solutions below:
1) stay at the parking place, and leave 3 hours before morning light so that you can get to the starting point of the climb when the sun rises. After summiting, descend towards Johnsbach and get back to the parking place by hitch-hike. This version is recommended for those who do not climb fast, and will not have enough time for a descending climb after summiting in daylight. The path to Johnsbach can be walked with headlight, too
2) if you climb speedy enough, stay at the Haindlkar Hut (1.5 hours walk from the parking place), leave the hut at sunrise, and after summiting, desced along the Peternpfad back to the hut

Route description

From the parking place to Haindlkar Hut you will follow a well marked path. It takes around 1.5 hours. The personnel at the hut is very friendly. From the hut, follow Peternpfad to a marked junction, showing the way to the starting point of Jahn-Zimmer route. This section is well marked, too. The climbing route itself is preatty easy to find, red signs are painted on the rock. The stands are on-hand, but if you need some more securing points, you will have to take care of it. Some friends and belts will make a good use... From the hut to the starting point it takes around 1.5 hours on walkable path, with a few UIAA I-II sections. The climbing consists of mostly II and III sections, with a few III+ ones. In my opinion, the route is somewhat under-scaled, I would rate it at least half a step higher. After rainy periods the climbing is even more complicated, the rock gets slippery. The climbing from the starting point to the leaving point should take 6 hours. On slightly wet rock, it took 10 hours to us. You should consider taking your climbing shoes. Some sections are not really comfortable in mountain boots... Find a topo here
Find my photos here

Descent

Once up, you can join the marked path leading to Johnsbach. Its upper section contains some I - II (UIAA) parts, but then afterwards it is just walking. It takes around 4 hours to get to the village. Alternatively, you can climb up to the peak (II, 0.5 hours), where you can join the Peternpfad back to Haindlkar Hut. Bear in mind that it is a II route, taking considerably more time than walking. In turn, you get right to the hut instead of Johnsbach, that is located at the other side of the mountain

Images

Near the key pointTopo of Hochtor North Face

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