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Chamonix ManRoute Climbed: Normal Route from Refuge Hut Date Climbed: July 1996  Sucess!

Chamonix Man

Click here for a more full trip report.



I climbed with my brother when I was 18. We spent five days walking around the mountain, staying in little villages and camping. We didn't take a tent, just bivvy bags.



Watch out for water on the trek - you can never be sure where the next supply is going to be so carry lots. Also it is worth taking iodene even for sources high iin the hills.



Descended a more direct way and passed the wreckage of a small plane on the side of the mountain.
Posted Aug 14, 2002 4:39 am

Phil McLeanRoute Climbed: Normal route (south cwm / ikhibi sud) Date Climbed: 24th March 2000  Sucess!

Phil McLean

With 5 friends from Edinburgh University Hillwalking Club. Camped at Neltner for 2 nights acclimatising / feeling sick, then 3rd night in the refuge. Set off early, made the summit exhausted but happy. On hard snow from the refuge. First taste of altitude. Returned to Imlil same day. Would love to go back and climb some more of the mountains round the refuge.
Posted Jun 10, 2002 4:54 pm

Diego SahagúnRoute Climbed: Normal Route / Ikhibi Sud Date Climbed: 9 April 1998  Sucess!

Diego Sahagún

6 friends and me started from a tent near refuge Neltner at 9:45 in the morning. Two of us climbed first Toubkal Ouest passing Tizi n'Toubkal. From this secundary peak of Toubkal could see our team mates on Toubkal summit. Then we worked up onto it under a burning sun, reached summit and descended to meet our friends.

Posted Apr 21, 2002 9:52 am

Diego SahagúnRoute Climbed: Normal Route / Ikhibi Sud Date Climbed: 3 April 1996  Sucess!

Diego Sahagún

4 team mates and me started from a tent near refuge Neltner at 10:30 in the morning. Reached the summit when the clouds covered it, the storm was there, all our hairs stood on end and we had to protect crampons and axes against possible rays. Once on the ikhibi we emerged from the clouds and returned to base camp.
Posted Apr 21, 2002 9:34 am

mmalloyRoute Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: April 16th 2002  Sucess!

mmalloy

Great climb. Ended up going up twice in two days. Lots of snow but the view was well worth it. Check out the trip report. Crampons and ice axe were needed.
Posted Apr 20, 2002 11:29 am

Diego SahagúnRoute Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: 31 March 1994  Sucess!

Diego Sahagún

Not too easy walk from Neltner refuge (3.207 m). Two friends of mine and me left camp near this hut at 9:30 h. The snow wasn't yet so hard but kept on the ikhibi (stream bed) Sud. About 12.000 ft. we felt sick because of height but kept upstairs another time. The ascent isn't difficult, the trail goes along a large snow-covered bed until tizi n'Toubkal (Toubkal col) at 3.940 m. Some climbers go back from summit after leaving their camps soon on the morning. On the col we turned to the left up a scree slope, went along the ridge coming up from the col and traversed right to the summit plateau. There a great iron piramid marks the tallest point of NW-Africa (4.167 m). The sky was then overcast and there was a little fog first of the descent. We lost the trail a little but soon found it. The descent was a pleasant walk on this beautiful High Atlas mountain, the snow had soften and we sometimes sank to our hips at the last part of the route over our tent.
Posted Feb 5, 2002 3:44 pm

ben jamminRoute Climbed: Standard Date Climbed: August 1995  Sucess!

ben jammin

Maroccan mountain sickness due to a far too enthusiastic ascent :-(
Posted Dec 19, 2001 12:08 pm

jpdoumeyrouRoute Climbed: normal route Date Climbed: jan 2000  Sucess!

jpdoumeyrou

Had to turn around 60 vertical meters from the summit.

We had come too fast to the refuge, and my partner felt sick, so we got up late, started late, dragged ass on the way up, and eventually my partner gave up and turned around. I went on alone, but it was already too late. Because the hut's guard was supposed to leave at 4 pm, I had a turnaround time of 2. At 2:30, I turned around in view of the summit.

But.

It was my first experience of altitude, and I had my money worth of it. That day I was totally alone on the mountain, and the view is great.

Especially in winter, I think it is a good training mountain. It looks and feel like a high altitude mountain, yet it is not difficult.

Also Morocco is quite interesting.
Posted Oct 5, 2001 1:57 am

tom stoddartDate Climbed: September 1999  Sucess!
Incredible views available to those willing to spend the night on the summit, as we did. Very cold and windy, and no water above about 3500m, but a wonderful experience.
Posted Apr 19, 2001 6:31 am

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