Finding the mountain
Not many countries in the world offer real “terra incognita” just 30 km from their capital. Yemen, the pearl of Arabia, is one of them. Approaching the 2300 m high valley of capital San'aa by air from the east, you see a group of mountains with impressive crags and table mountains with vertical walls soaring several hundred meters. The difficult-to-find maps of the country give their altitudes at around 3500m, the second highest in the whole Arabian Peninsula.
![Jebel al Lawz, Yemen]()
Being in San'aa on a mission for the Ministry of Water and Environment in December 2006, I asked my Yemeni colleagues about the name and accessibility of these mountains. They stressed that the place was renowned for its rare plants and called Jebel al Lawz, or mountain of almond trees. I was told that it requires a special permit to visit the area that I would not be able to get. However, there was no danger of kidnappings and no violence had been reported from this area. Strangely, only one of the officials had ever been there, decades ago. My curiosity was aroused. Internet research revealed detailed information from a UK forester who had done a survey of the trees growing on these mountains and described the region in glowing terms. Moreover, Google Earth showed a paved road leading right to the foot of the giant escarpments. I thus decided to test my luck and travel to the mountains in Yemeni style.
During my mission I had benefited from the services of a venerable, imperturbable taxi driver named Ahmed. His 1970s vehicle did not benefit from a speedometer or any unnecessary luxuries besides the sheepskin in the front, but he was always at the right place in the right time. As Ahmed spoke no English, I needed a guide who could explain him the adventure. Drifting around the marvelous souk of San'aa, I encountered young Nor, who was willing to come with me and told me that he was born in the lower part of the valley leading into the heart of the mountains. He was very relaxed regarding the lacking permit. So we set off from San'aa at sunrise on a crisp, cold December morning. The road was indeed very good and there was no control post until we already reached the middle reaches of the valley. The friendly soldier there had a short look at my passport and seeing the local touch of our small group waved us through.
The landscape is stark – orange and black mountain masses of volcanic origin looking like a desert. On the slopes, some terraced fields show the scourge of Yemen, the drug tree Qat. Most Yemenis sit together for hours in the afternoon to chew this mild narcotic and spend a high share of their meager income on it. A bag like the one shown on the photo costs 4 $.
Despite the low precipitation of about 150 mm annually people manage to grow grapes on the valley floor on racks built out of the ubiquitous basalt columns, now being replaced by steel pipes.
The occasional flash floods are retained by a dam built into a gorge next to the small town of Tanam. After about 40 km the roadhead was reached in the village of Marbaq, at about 2700 m on the foot of the central high plateau. From there, only 4-wheel vehicles can continue on a rugged dirt track. As Ahmed’s car would not have survived the vagaries of such a “road”, Nor and myself trekked along, with a superb view on the lower mountains to the west.
On the mountain
The bulk of Jebel al Lawz rose before us and it was clear that the top could be reached without major difficulties. While Nor seemed to be a bit puzzled about my intention to get up there, he was enterprising enough to participate in this venture. Surprisingly, he had never been there despite living in a village just 15 km away. On the high plateau at 3000m, agriculture is done like in biblical times. Camels and donkeys pull wooden ploughs in a slow rhythm.
Approaching the village Mahallein on the southern side of the mountain, we came across terraces with centuries-old almond trees in full blossom. The trees benefit from the night frosts common at this altitude. In a narrow gorge, several large Eucalyptus trees grow – a miracle given the water needs of this species. As there is no path above Mahallein, we scrambled up water channels with an occasional pool remaining from the rainy season. On the black, smooth basaltic surface we were able to gain altitude quickly.
In small crevices, pink flowers of a xerophytic species appear seemingly from the rock itself. Other plants form thick bundles of fleshy leaves and dot the landscape. The ingenuity of the Yemeni farmers has harnessed the waters of the entire mountain side in water collection channels that are a good means to guide the hikers’ way towards the top. Beyond 3200 meters, Juniper trees cling to the rock, having stood the vagaries of the weather for many centuries. According to the UK forestry expert, this is one of the last remaining stands of wild junipers in Yemen.
The summit, at about 3400 m, is crowned by a small refuge from medieval times. From there, the view is breathtaking. The table mountains in the north, reaching 3200 m, are used for agriculture almost up to their summits. They must be a rewarding spot for hikers.
To the west, Yemen’s highest mountain Jebel Nabi Shuaib (3660m) rises at a distance of 100 km. In the East, high bizarre spires and crags appear that would challenge many seasoned climbers.
Yemeni hospitality
We rushed downwards to reach Mahallein in time for Nor’s Friday prayers. In the high sun, the basalt rocks were glistening and the almond flowers gave an almost surreal symphony of color. Sitting in front of the mosque, I became the chief attraction for the boys of the village. They loved being photographed and filmed among the gnarled, secular almond trees. Watching the films together on the camera’s small screen raised big laughter. The men passing us for the mosque were all extremely friendly, no one showing hostility to the foreigner.
The village is built in the traditional masonry style with earthen roofs. Due to the almond production, income must be relatively high for Yemeni standards.
We benefited from the unbeatable Yemeni hospitality as a roadbuilders’ truck took us down the track and we were having a sumptuous lunch at their worksite. Ahmed was waiting for us smiling and after some effort to convince his car to start, we set off for San'aa.
Discovering this Yemeni mountain paradise was finding an unexpected gem. Many further gems of this type are still hidden in Yemen’s rugged landscape.
How to get to Jebel al Lawz
Take road from San'aa south-east in the direction of Jihana. Turn left (north-east) at the first roundabout after leaving the city and take asphalted road towards Tanam. After ~10 km, army checkpost. Pass Tanam and continue on paved road that ends at Marbaq (~40 km from San'aa). From there take gravel/dirt road leading up the escarpment to Mahallein (~5 km). From Mahallein, 90 minutes ascent on pathless slope (easy for experienced hikers) to the summit. Easily possible as a day trip.
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