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Kasnapoff - II Torre del Sella NW Ridge

 
Kasnapoff -  II Torre del Sella NW Ridge

Page Type: Route

Location: Bolzano/Trento, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.50988°N / 11.77606°E

Object Title: Kasnapoff - II Torre del Sella NW Ridge

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Season: Summer

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: Alpine D, UIAA V

Number of Pitches: 12

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: Silvia Mazzani

Created/Edited: Oct 7, 2015 / Jan 31, 2017

Object ID: 955709

Hits: 664 

Page Score: 82.48%  - 15 Votes 

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Overview

Geographical classification: Eastern Alps > Dolomites > Sella Group > Second Sella Tower > Kasnapoff, NW Ridge



Kasnapoff - II Torre del Sella NW Ridge




Sella Towers belong to the extensive Sella Group, Mesules Subgroup and overlook the namesake alpine pass in the Dolomites. This latter is located between Sassolungo and Sella groups and connects the village of Canazei in Val di Fassa and Selva in Val Gardena. The towers are five in number, though the most famous are the first three ones. In reason of the scenic beauty and the well worthy climbing routes, as well as the proximity to the Sella Pass and consequently the quick approach, they are one of the most popular destination in Western Dolomites. The most climbed peak is First Sella Tower, the closest cliff to the pass, but also Second Tower is greatly popular, offering a wide variety of excellent rock climbing in a superb alpine setting. Amongst the numberless routes running on its faces, one of the best classic climbs is Via Kasnapoff. This climb is definitely a worthy outing and runs at first on the right hand of a superb steep wall facing North, built of excellent carved rock and rich in handholds. In the second section the route runs just nearby the ridge facing North-West and delimitating the N wall on the right.

Sella Towers annotated panorama

Getting There

The starting point of the approach path is Passo Sella (Jëuf de Sela in ladin, Sellajoch in german) m 2240, which can be reached either from Canazei either by Selva di Val Gardena.

Road access

- From Bolzano North follow the road to the little town of Ponte Gardena. From here take the road entering Val Gardena, pass Ortisei and reach Selva di Val Gardena. After 5,2 km from Selva di Val Gardena the road forks; turn to right (signpost PassoSella), reaching the pass

- From Trento follow the A22 Brennero Motorway towards North, exit Egna-Ora and follow the road S51 towards Fassa Valley, getting to Cavalese, Predazzo, Moena and Canazei. Here take the road to PassoSella, reaching the pass

- From Brennero Pass take the A22 Brennero Motorway towards South, exit Chiusa and then follow the roadway joining the Val Gardena road, pass Ortisei and Selva di Val Gardena. After 5,2 km from Selva di Val Gardena the road forks; take the road on the right (signpost PassoSella), reaching the pass

Punta Grohmann and Cinque Dita at sunrise from Sella Pass
Punta Grohmann and Cinque Dita at sunrise
Approach path n. 649
Approach path
II Torre di Sella North Face from the approach
II Torre di Sella North Face from the approach path

Red Tape

No particular restrictions in climbing and hiking

Kasnapoff report

Kasnapoff report

Summit altitude: m. 2598
Difficulty: max UIAA V
Climbing length: 360 m
Equipment: pegs and natural protections, equipped belays
Exposure: N and NW
First ascent: Mrs von Kasnapoff and M. Zelger 1913
Starting point: Passo Sella m 2240

A great outing on a highly satisfactory classic route, providing an exciting climbing up a superb steep wall on excellent carved "dolomia" rich in holds. Different variants exist and the climb requires a bit of istinct to find the correct route. It's advisable to bring a good report

Beta of Kasnapoff, Second Sella Tower
 

Approach

From Passo Sella take the path n. 649, addressed to Mesules Via Ferrata, getting the neighborhood of Seconda Torre North-West ridge. A well worn track leads to the base of the steep North Face of the tower. The route starts nearby just to the right of a commemorative plaque fixed on the wall. 30 minutes from Passo Sella

Route report

L1 - From the plaque up slanting right, then climb a short wall cut by a vague crack and traverse right in the direction of NW ridge reaching a stance below a steep wall. III, IV, 3 pegs, 40 m.
L2 – From the terrace climb slanting right, then return left before reaching the ridge; return right again, getting to a niche where is situated the belay, just above the vertical of the previous stance. IV+, 3 pegs, 20 m.
L3 – Climb a steep slab to the left of the stance, then directly to the third belay. IV, IV-, 35 m., 3 pegs
L4 – Traverse 3 meters right, then climb a corner-crack and a ramp slanting left. IV, IV-, 35 m., 3 pegs
L5 – Up the ramp again, reaching a gully and belay at the base of a dihedral. IV-, 25 m.
L6 – A pitch requiring a good nose to find the best route. Don’t climb the dihedral but traverse definitely 4 meters to the right below a slab surmounted by an overhanging band. Climb the slab slanting right getting to the overhanging band and climb it along a short corner slanting right, reaching a stance to the right. IV+, 2 pegs, 35 m.


Exposed climb on Kasnapoff, facing Sassolungo
On sixth pitch, facing Sassolungo
Kasnapoff, beautiful climb up the ninth pitch's corner
Up the ninth pitch's corner
Fine wall on Kasnapoff upper section
Fine wall on Kasnapoff upper section



L7 - Up to the right of the stance, then return left to the next stance. IV, 15 m., 1 peg and 1 hole.
L8 – Climb the little overhang on the right of the stance, then straightly reaching a triangular small terrace. IV, IV-, 25 m., 3 pegs
L9 – Slanting right to a prominent little overhang. Climb it directly and enter a superb corner, following it with great climb to the stance, IV+, V-, 40 m., 3 pegs and various holes.
L10 – Up the short wall above the stance, getting to a scree terrace. Continue on the wall above the terrace and belay near a jammed block. IV, IV-, 50 m., 1 peg
L11 – Up a wall slanting left and the crest above. Belay on an outcrop. III, 35 m.
L12 – On easier rocks along the summit crest, getting the top. Summit book. II, 20 m.

A climber on Kasnapoff second pitch
A climber on second pitch

Second party reaching the summit
Enjoying the summit view



Descent: along Second Sella Tower Normal route, joining in the lower section the standard route of First Sella Tower. From the summit head to North and reaching an anchor above a chimney. Dowclimb Piz Ciavazes (III) or do an abseil, reaching a rocky notch, then walk and scramble down toward Piz Ciavazes (cairns), to the notch between First Tower and Second Tower. Pass across the notch, then continue traversing right on an exposed trail and reaching a fork. Downclimb towards right (II UIAA), getting the trail coming from Cengia dei Camosci (Piz Ciavazes), then reaching an anchor on a terrace. An advisable short 25 m. rappel leads on the path on the base of the tower.

Essential Gear and Climbing Scales

Rope 2x50, some quick draws, some slings. The route is equipped by pegs, bring normal climbing equipment and a selection of cams and wires to integrate the protections along the pitches.


Climbing Grades:

Rock Climbing Rating Systems
French YDS
(USA)
UIAA
French YDS
(USA)
UIAA
French YDS
(USA)
UIAA
1 5.2 I 6b 5.10c VII- 7c+ 5.12d IX
2 5.3 II 6b+ 5.10d VII 8a 5.13a/5.13b IX+/X-
3 5.4 III 6c 5.11a VII+ 8a+ 5.13c X-
4 5.5 IV 6c+ 5.11b VII+/VIII- 8b 5.13d X
5a 5.6 V- 7a 5.11c VIII- 8b+ 5.14a X+
5b 5.7 V/V+ 7a+ 5.11d VIII 8c 5.14b X+/XI-
5c 5.8 VI- 7b 5.12a VIII+ 8c+ 5.14c XI-
6a 5.9 VI/VI+ 7b+ 5.12b VIII+/IX- 9a 5.14d XI
6a+ 5.10a/5.10b VI+/VII- 7c 5.12c IX- 9a+ 5.15a XI+


Accomodation

The closest place to overnight is Passo Sella, otherwise there are numerous huts, hotels, apartments and campsites both in Val di Fassa and Val Gardena sides: you can stay in Canazei, a primary resort in Val di Fassa, or Selva di Val Gardena. Nearest accomodation:

- Passo Sella

Rifugio Passo Sella/Sellajoch Haus

Rifugio Valentini


- Pian Schiavaneis (along the road from Canazei to Sella Pass)

Rifugio Monti Pallidi

When to climb

A shady and cool setting. Best season is full summer

Meteo

METEO TRENTINO
DOLOMITI METEO - TRENTINO

Guidebooks and maps

 
Guidebook  Arrampicare Dolomiti Nord-Occidentali
 
 
Sella Towers map
 

"Gruppo di Sella" by Fabio Favaretto and Andrea Zannini - Collana Guide dei Monti d'Italia CAI-TCI

"Arrampicare Dolomiti Nord-Occidentali" Vol. I by M.Bertolotti - L. Galbiati - F. Vascellari - Collana Mountain Geographic

Images

Kasnapoff, beautiful climb up the ninth pitch\'s cornerTorri del Sella, approach path n. 649Sella Towers annotated panoramaSassolungo group seen from the summit of II Torre del SellatopA climber on Kasnapoff first pitchPunta Grohmann and Cinque Dita at sunrise from Sella PassDetail of Second and First Sella Towers
Exposed climb on Kasnapoff (II Torre del Sella), facing SassolungoBeta of Kasnapoff, Second Sella TowerSecond party reaching the summit, II Torre del SellaGuidebook "Arrampicare Dolomiti Nord-Occidentali"Stunning view over Piz Ciavazes and Sass PordoiFine wall on Kasnapoff upper section, II Torre del SellaStunning Second Sella Tower North Face seen from top of Fourth Sella Tower
[ View Gallery - 3 More Images ]