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Kautz Glacier Climber's Log

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ScottyPWeathered off.
Date Climbed: Jun 4, 2009

ScottyP

Rain, snow, sleet, hail and wind! All kept us from getting from the cleaver to Hazzard. Waited it out as long as we could before decending. Great route and I will be back on it.
Posted Dec 3, 2009 4:47 pm

tb00957Kautz glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 23, 2009
Lucky with the weather. Whiteout the day in, bad weather last day, but we got a break in the middle. Windy and cold but clear for the summit day.
Posted Jun 29, 2009 2:14 pm

TRPKautz Glacier

TRP

This was my first real summit of a glaciated peak. I am not sure the year, but back then we still used camp Hazard, and we accessed the glacier by cutting straight across the ice fall. I have guided the route a number of times since, it is quite different now. Now we repell the rock cliff below the ice fall. The upper part of the route changed this year, instead of going directly up from the cleaver, we had to traverse climbers right quite a bit before finally cutting back toward the summit.
Posted Dec 4, 2008 11:08 am

kpthomson5 years ago to the day (almost)

kpthomson

What an epic.
What I do recall was the weather deteriorating to a point of a white out 2/3 up the Kautz ice-chute. Tried to ride it out but ended up rapping down on bollards.
Posted Sep 2, 2008 2:31 pm

dpsiebertKautz  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 2, 2001

dpsiebert

three days up and one day down. the only issues were high winds summit day and some altitude sickness with one of our party.
Posted Aug 30, 2008 1:29 pm

brusythis was an epic
Date Climbed: Jul 17, 2005

brusy

Didn't make the summit, turned around about 1000ft below the summit, was getting too late...
Posted Jun 29, 2008 12:38 am

DBakerKautz  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2007

DBaker

Seems like an endless stretch of ice when on-route, which is both good and bad (depending on your attitude). Some icefall- didn't hit anyone in our group though. Descended via DC.
Posted Sep 17, 2007 6:23 pm

osatrikTwo successful OSAT rendezvous climbs  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 17, 1995

osatrik

I was on OSAT climbs of the Kautz twice in the mid-1990s. We rendezvoused at the summit with teams from the DC and Emmons routes on both occasions.

The first of these witnessed a "box-car-sized block" fall off the ice cliff and go down the gully -- it made everyone move a bit faster through the gully on the descent (which through the gully is an ASCENT back up to Camp Hazard!)

Both climbs were in mid-July, and both encountered only 20-50 feet of bare ice requiring one or two pieces of protection. One of the climbs was the first on the route for several weeks following some mid-summer snowfall, and we had to set a route through the crevasse field of the upper Kautz as there were no wands nor tracks.

Second ascent by OSAT on this route was the next year, July 21, 1996.
Posted Aug 23, 2006 9:10 pm

esugiLong summit day  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2006

esugi

Made this a 3 day climb. Camped at 7600 ft near the top of the Fan. Second night at a bivy site near the top of the Turtle snowfield. Woke up at midnight and off at 1:30am with a full pack. Simul-climbed the 2nd pitch using 4 screws for running-belay. Started running out of gas after 6 hours on the route but we pushed on and finally reached the summit at 10:30 am, 10 hours on the route with a full pack. We were painfully slow this day!

Descended the DC route. Because it was late morning, almost noon, we punched through numerous snow bridges. Very scary. Finally reaching Ingraham Flats at 3:00 pm and back to the car at 6:00 pm.
Posted Aug 10, 2006 4:20 am

cdogKautz  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2004

cdog

fast route this time of year. 2nd tool was helpful on the ice pitches--which we simulclimbed with 3 screw placements.
Traverse over to DC was nice and scenic and easy.
2 day trip with great bivy below the ice cliff (not directly below!! we watched a large chunk calve off around 1900--don't be climbing below this in the afternoon!!)
Posted Feb 24, 2006 1:45 pm

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