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huntersleeClose, but not quite
Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2012

hunterslee

Beautiful mountain. Climbed the West Ridge, but opted to turn around @6850 meters. Will have to go back and finish the route one day...
Posted Jan 10, 2014 7:45 pm

kevin trieuBeautiful mountain, terrible weather.
Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2013

kevin trieu

Acclimatized on Lenin and planning to blast up the mountain in a week. Carried 10 days of food/fuel in preparation for bad weather which this mountain is known for. And as an old mountain adage, if you carry extra food/fuel, you'll use it. And so we did because out of those 10 days, there were only a couple of days of good weather in which we can move. Approached from the south side so moving between camps after snow was out of the question due to avalanche danger. Spent 3 days at each camp. Made the summit attempt on day 9 but was turned around at 6,400m due to horrendous winds and extreme cold. Should have brought my down suit.
Posted Aug 20, 2013 12:00 pm

Rusnborgclassic route from north side  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2010

Rusnborg

Summited in august 2008 solo and august 2010 with client. Verygood weather, sunny, not wind, not snow. Beautiful mountain and good route.
Posted Jan 12, 2013 4:31 am

zoomlocoAlpine style solo ascent  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2003

zoomloco

via Progrebetsky Route (Classical Southern Route). The most beautiful peak, keeps drawing your eyes to it. The 5.7/ 5.8 rock section at ~ 6900 meters is on marble making it very secure to solo and incredible climbing that may be unique (what other peaks have marble this high?).
Posted Jul 7, 2011 11:32 am

Ski Mountaineersouth normal
Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2010

Ski Mountaineer

Summit with Anders Ödman. Normal route from south (hazardous --> serac fall/avalanches from Pik Chapaev!), no fixed rope used for ascent, acclimatization for other climbs in area.
Posted Aug 29, 2010 7:35 am

JelenaDanger  Sucess!

Jelena

Old fix rope broke. Almost fall to death. Very happy to summit.
Posted Aug 2, 2008 3:04 am

alexclimbRoute Climbed: North  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 20, 2006

alexclimb

Did all the program in two weeks and been the last climbers from the North in the season. Quite hard route, but fixed ropes are everywhere, normally in very doubtful conditions. The Mountain is unbelievably beautiful (if visible). Started from the Camp III 6100 at 7.30 and been on the summit a bit
past midday and at 15.30 back in the Camp. Snow storm all the way, no summit views at all.
Posted Aug 29, 2006 7:28 pm

BigLeeRoute Climbed: Progrebetsky Route, (Classical Southern Route)
Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2005

BigLee

Crap climbing conditions on the west ridge. After ascending deep powder snow and literally going nowhere at times we had to turn back at about 6850m late in the afternoon because of bad weather. We descended under nightfall. I had crampon problems and so descended slower than my partners on the fixed lines. Around midnight, amidst poor visibilty, I opted to halt on the ridge until the morning after losing the route. The night was freezing and by the morning my right hand was badly frostbitten and I had also lost sensation in my toes. Fortunately the weather and visibility improved around sunrise and I quickly found the route again and made it back to the col around 5am. We were hit by an avalanche off Chapayeva a few days earlier and the helicopter that was supposed to be flying us back to Kakara after the climb crashed (later making news around the world)! An eventful trip!
If I go back I'll either try the north side or the south side along with Pobeda. Not sure I want to take that avalanche prone classic southern route again though.
Posted Jan 26, 2006 7:27 pm

cristakheRoute Climbed: north classical route Date Climbed: 13 august 2005  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2005

cristakhe

This is a very beautiful mountain that you realy need to see. In the summit day I have been angry because I think that 20 climbers in the same day on the route to the peak are to much. I have to wait more than 1 hour at 6700m to pass a 20m rock barrier. But once I have seen the view from the top I have forgetten all this problems.
Posted Aug 22, 2005 8:40 am

alex schwarzkopfRoute Climbed: North Date Climbed: 10 August 2003  Sucess!
Great climb (as it is my only one)
Posted Feb 1, 2004 11:14 am

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