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Kilpacker Basin
Route

Kilpacker Basin

 
Kilpacker Basin

Page Type: Route

Location: Colorado, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 37.83920°N / 107.9908°W

Object Title: Kilpacker Basin

Route Type: Snow Couloir or Steep Scree

Time Required: A long day

Difficulty: Grade II Class 4

Route Quality: 
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Page By: jimmyjay

Created/Edited: Jan 27, 2005 / Apr 7, 2005

Object ID: 163692

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Roads


From Telluride, head south on Colorado 145 until 5.4 miles past the summit of Lizard Head Pass. From Rico, head north on 145 for 9.5 miles. Turn west onto the Dunton Road (FS #535). After 5 miles, turn right onto FS #207 to the trailhead.

Approach/Route Description


From the trailhead, head northwest through the meadow eventually reaching Kilpacker Creek. Head upriver on use trail, crossing as necessary past falls, above timberline and up Kilpacker Basin until just SW of the peak. At about 5.5 miles, the uppermost reaches of the basin devolve to a bowl, then a moderate couloir (Class 3). Crampons and axe (challenging scree after snowmelt) lead to the notch at ca14,000' just west of the summit blocks. Summit ridge is Class 4 and ends at 14,246', the highpoint of the San Miguel Range. The top 100' are the most challenging and it is this section that makes the peak one of the 5 difficult 14ers in CO on most climber's lists. This route is a tedious scree climb by mid-July, but like most Colorado 14ers, an expedient snow route in late spring/early summer. The route passes within climbing reach of the El Diente point which can be reached by glissading back down the couloir until a high traverse can be made across the snow.


Essential Gear


Crampons and axe. Ice Tools in hard conditions. A belay may be nice just before the summit.

Images

The jagged Class 4 summit of...A Bee in a FlowerA tedious scree journey in...Waterfall on Kilpacker CreekApproach photo for Kilbacker...