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Brian JenkinsRoute Climbed: Southwest Route and Southwest Route with Douglas Variation Date Climbed: October 19, 2002  Sucess!

Brian Jenkins

Fumbled through the forest to the base of the rock and found the Southwest Route up the ramp. Scree gully was very loose. Took the wrong route up the last scrambly part and downclimbed twice before I found the incredibly easy way around the corner. Walked along the entire ridge and sat in the sun for a while before heading down. Once back down the scree gully I decided to try the Douglas Variation back up again. Searched for a while and downclimbed loose rock and was almost going to head back when I saw what looked like the easy way.



Climbed back up loose 4th class stuff and stemmed out to a small crack/chimney that led through to the gully on the other side. As I was making what appeared to be an easy Class 5 move into the notch I realized I was too high on crappy rock to downclimb and had no idea this was going to get this exposed. once over though I found a gully to the top but it involved several stemming moves up some chimneys and pulling myself up and out over some overhangy sections. The adrenalin was pumping now! Worked my way up this way for about 200 feet until I finally topped out back on the summit ridge.



On my way out I got lost and was up to my shins in muck in a swamp and started thinking about how deep I would sink. Backtracked and ran across the swamp hoping I would not get stuck. Made it out but got off on another trail and ended up about a mile south on Road 1202 from my Jeep and had to hike back. Was lucky to be wearing a reddish polypro top as there were tons of hunters in the area.
Posted Oct 21, 2002 7:09 pm

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