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Kor-Fuller, III, 5.10dRX

 
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Kor-Fuller, III, 5.10dRX
2nd-3rd Pitches- 80m- 5.10d/ We moved the belay up into the dry water fall (stem up and right). This allows for much better communication between leader and belayer for the crux moves. There is a bolt (2009) that can be backed up for the belay with a small piece of gear high and left. This climbing is quite unique, but typical Layton Kor. You are basically climbing a dry limestone waterfall. At times you can stem in the concave, but most of the way it is way too wide to stem. Unlocking crimpy holds and finger pockets here and there get you to the crux in short order, which is sort of a bulge requiring an off balance pull. The key hold here I believe is a far reach hidden jug up and right. The kind you have to spring for, but can’t tell for sure if you will make it. I did not get it clean. The protection right below this bold move is a bit delicate in the .3” range. Once you overcome this crux, more climbing at the grade awaits you as you exit the waterfall, but these moves are more physical dependant and better protected. Make very wide stems on delicate rock in places to exit the waterfall. Then continue up left finding sparse fixed protection on sticky limestone slab. Traverse the face, from right to left until you make for a ledge at a full 60m, with a few meters of simul-climbing necessary as well.
Kor-Fuller, III, 5.10dRX, 12 Pitches, Mount Louis, Banff National Park, August, 2009

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anitaRX?

anita

Hasn't voted

jesus..
Posted Sep 18, 2009 10:35 am

Dow WilliamsRe: RX?

Dow Williams

Hasn't voted

not this pitch Anita, but the first one. We have no photos as at that point my belayer was wanting to quit the route...it was a quiet and heady lead (no pro=R, nice solid ledge; chossy rock=X)...obscure line...don't know of any repeats, but sure I was not the first to dive on Layton's Mount Louis creation. Cheers.
Posted Sep 18, 2009 11:16 am

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Dow WilliamsSubmitted by Dow Williams
on Sep 18, 2009 10:04 am

Image ID: 554650
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Object Title: Kor-Fuller, III, 5.10dRX

Image Type(s): Alpine Climbing