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Kris Solem and Chelsea...

 
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Kris Solem and Chelsea...
Kris Solem and Chelsea Griffie on the summit of the Silver Turret having just completed the first ascent of Despairadoes. Yes, that's a bosch drill in Kris' holster...

That's Kettle Dome in the background.

Photo by Guy Keesee.7/4/96

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Viewing: 1-17 of 17    

Dave DalyWho's Bosch?

Dave Daly

Hasn't voted

Speaking of Bosch's....I hear Locke Rock calling out your name Kris. Secondary support in the form of a 24volt Hitachi is also available....hint, hint....
Posted Mar 26, 2004 3:43 pm

ksolemRe: Who's Bosch?

ksolem

Voted 10/10

I've not seen the Hitachi drill. How is it? My bosch is an old 12v bulldog. New batteries make it ok but it's good for about 8 bolts per charge. I have two batteries. The new Bosch 24v drills like mad but it's a lot bigger which I don't like.
Posted Mar 29, 2004 1:36 pm

Dave DalyRe: Who's Bosch?

Dave Daly

Hasn't voted

Hmmm.....the Hitachi weighs almost 9 lbs but I can get almost 100 holes drilled on one battery. It hasn't seen too much action but has it's share of "battle scars".
Posted Mar 30, 2004 11:42 am

Craig PeerRe: Who's Bosch?

Craig Peer

Hasn't voted

Power drills almost seem like cheating compared to hand drilling, of which I've done quite a bit. No legal problem using them in the National Park Kris?
Posted Mar 30, 2004 12:09 pm

ksolemRe: Who's Bosch?

ksolem

Voted 10/10

Good question Craig. I was wondering when someone was gonna ask about the drill thing. I am tempted to start a thread on the gear column....



I use both methods. The power drill is fast, but big and heavy and relies on batteries. I would way rather use a hand drill in a dicey spot, and way rather carry one over a high pass too. Also, when we did this route there was not much scrutiny going on as to drilling anchors in the back country, I would not use a bosch in there today. I regret using it then, the route only has a few bolts and we would have succeeded either way.
Posted Mar 30, 2004 2:22 pm

Dave DalyRe: Who's Bosch?

Dave Daly

Hasn't voted

Craig -



A little bit of "recon" work will minimize the Nazi exposure. That was Kurt Smith's downfall while bolting the Muir Wall......too much spray and no lookouts. My drill has seen action in the National Forest and the National Park.....nuff said. No issues here.
Posted Mar 30, 2004 2:26 pm

Craig PeerRe: Who's Bosch?

Craig Peer

Hasn't voted

You'll have to learn to hand drill if we need to replace a bolt on Flashback though Dave - no power drills there!
Posted Mar 30, 2004 3:04 pm

ksolemRe: Who's Bosch?

ksolem

Voted 10/10

The Little General's downfall when he was bolting the Muir wall was that he was bolting the Muir Wall. The Hubers do their big free climbs in a much more refined style.
Posted Mar 30, 2004 8:30 pm

Dave DalyRe: Who's Bosch?

Dave Daly

Hasn't voted

True enough Kris. But if he really wanted to keep it reticent then he should have said squat! Hmmmm.....makes me think of a few cliffs that have 4 or 5 bolts within 60 meter (no natural pro) that range in the 10 to 11 range. What's up with that? Self-proclaimed bolting!!
Posted Apr 1, 2004 3:30 pm

ksolemRe: Who's Bosch?

ksolem

Voted 10/10

I agree with you about Kurt, but I am missing your point on the bolting thing. Please explain?
Posted Apr 1, 2004 8:46 pm

Dave DalyRe: Who's Bosch?

Dave Daly

Hasn't voted

Oh, I was confused why someone would put up a 5.11 route that has no natural pro and yet places under a dozen fixed bolts on 60 meter route (ie Moro Rock, Chernobyl Wall, Pastori Dome). I believe in "conservative" bolting.....but not that conservative. Please don't think I'm saying this about you. For what I've seen at Courtright, you've established some quality routes, Kris!
Posted Apr 5, 2004 2:25 pm

Craig PeerRe: Who's Bosch?

Craig Peer

Hasn't voted

OK, now that you've mentioned Chernobyl Wall, I'm confused as to what you're saying!!
Posted Apr 5, 2004 3:53 pm

ksolemRe: Who's Bosch?

ksolem

Voted 10/10

I think he's saying that he doesn't like runout routes, or at least deliberately set ones. I kind of think that there's an elegance to bold lines, and the sparing use of bolts, but theres room for all kinds of climbs. Variety is the spice of life... (What do you think about the Bachar Yerian? Bad route or mega classic? So far I've shied away from doing it, but I still aspire to, and it is a great climb to me even if I never get it up to try...)
Posted Apr 5, 2004 4:02 pm

Craig PeerRe: Who's Bosch?

Craig Peer

Hasn't voted

Wait - not that I want to put words in Daves mouth, but I thought he liked runout face climbing? As far as any routes we put up on Chernobyl Wall, I don't like run out climbs either. The 1st ascents were all done on lead though, so bolts were drilled where we could actually stop without falling off - no hooks used. Mother Nature determined where pro was to be, bolts or otherwise!
Posted Apr 5, 2004 4:26 pm

Dave DalyRe: Who's Bosch?

Dave Daly

Hasn't voted

Whoa!! Take a deep breath. Bottom line: I'm simply saying (as Kris suggested), I dislike deliberately set runout climbs. Yes, Craig, I do like a challenging runout BUT....... only when there is hope near the end of the runout. But a single pitch section of a multi-pitch climb that has no natural pro and no fixed gear either!?!? I don't understand why someone would even bother putting fixed belay anchors at the end of the "pitch". Hell! Just keep going....what's the use or the purpose?!?



Prime example: "Journey To Ixaltan' on Moro Rock. Pitch #2 (if one follows the line marked out in the guidbook), it has absolutely NO pro (fixed or natural). Don't have the guidebook with me right now, but who was the joker that put that up? Granted, it's 5.7 but annotate whether it's runout or not (ie "R" or "X"). SHEESH!!



BTW, there is a route on CW that a few Fresno buttheads put up that are "X" rated. Funny thing, this is the same person that grid bolted "Sunday Slab" at Tollhouse 7 years back!! I'm completely BAMBOOZLED!!
Posted Apr 6, 2004 5:38 pm

Craig PeerRe: Who's Bosch?

Craig Peer

Hasn't voted

There is a new route on Chernobyl Wall? I'm not into R or X rated routes either. Don't really understand the rational of just making something extra dangerous on purpose.
Posted Apr 6, 2004 7:07 pm

LOWERmeRe: Who's Bosch?

LOWERme

Hasn't voted

Craig, lest we be accused of intentionally manipulating the sphincter factor on those Chernobyl Wall routes, please let the record show that when Miguel Carmona and I did the 2nd ascent of the 3rd pitch of Rainbow Warrior on our way up to finish the route, I added the 2nd bolt above the belay ledge from a point of aid behind behind the rotten flake. I originally led this section without adequate protection, but it made no sense that others should have to do so. A fall from the mantle above to the ledge below would have been serious. I'm sure you would agree with this decision.
Posted Feb 2, 2006 1:24 am

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on Mar 25, 2004 8:38 pm

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