Start from the Albert Premier hut (numerous good bivi sites directly above the hut). I recommend a start around 4.30am as this allows you to reach the base of the route as it gets light.
Follow a path (cairns) to the true right bank of the Tour Glacier (that's the left bank as you see it from the hut). Follow the glacier (usually a trail) passing a rognon on the left. Aim for a glacier bay between the WSW and SW spurs, on the map it is clear that the SW (or Table du Roc) spur joins the WSW spur near the summit. NOTE. The bay you are aiming at it not the one with a subsiduary band of rock below the cliff face, it is the next, broader bay.
From the head of the bay locate a couloir in the top right corner. This is the start.
Follow the couloir (1 short step of 3 at the base) as high as is possible before breaking our onto the spur on the right where it is reasonably easy. Going right too early causes problems. The spur is broad but narrows with height, follow it. An obviously steep section can be avoided on the left via a very open couloir right next to the steep bit. Climb the couloir and follow it back right to the table. Get on top of the table (3) and then follow the narrow ridge beyond to the summit. The whole route is about Scottish 2/3 when snowed up and is an ok climb with fresh snow on the rocks (beware avalanches on the approach and in the couloir).
1 axe, crampons, helmet, 1 rope, glacier material and 5 slings with krabs. Maybe 5/6 medium to large wires and hexes. No more, go light!
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
Additions and Corrections[ Post an Addition or Correction ]