La Java des bombes atomiques : Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering : SummitPost

Overview

It' s an overall good protected route in a nice alpine setting.

Getting There

Approach: Start at Les étages, a little village not far from La Bérarde. Go up the trail till you reach Le refuge du Soreiller.
From there it's only a 30-45min walk through rocks and possible snow to the base of the route.

View from the approach to Le refuge du Soreiller

Route Description

L1: V
L2: V/V-
L3: v/6a --> A small overhang in the middle of the pitch.
L4: V
L5: V/V+ --> a very beautiful pitch, but be careful with the loose rocks at the end of the pitch.
L6: V+ --> Airy pitch with some big loose blocks.
L7: V --> Airy start, be careful, but not too hard.

Descend: Follow the rappels from "Mazurka"

Climbing L6

Essential Gear

Two 60m ropes, Quickdraws, Some middle sized protection for the last pitch

External Links

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Images

Aiguille Dibona seen from the end of pitch 5