La Sale is flat topped summit which is usually
part of La Pleureur traverse,however it is worthy goal on itself with fine views/grand combin on the west,matterhorn,dent blanche on the east/.First climbed 27.08.1866 J.Gillioz and J.Isler.They climbed NNW ridge which is normal way from PB bivouac hut.
Normal way starts in Pantalons Blancs bivouac hut and follows NNW ridge from Col du Vasevay.Folllow easy angled snow slopes on Pointe du Vasevay/3356m/ then descent to Col du Vasevay/3225m/.Take care loose rock!Trace of path.Here are two choices-in the early summer climb steep snow slope on the left to reach upper part of glacier above shoulder/orange line/.Later in the season when snow turns to ice stay on the ridge and expect hard work through steep loose schist/blue line/.Above shoulder continue up then right to reach the base of summit bastion.Climb the ledge to reach base of chimney.Follow chimney to the top/UIAA II+,equipment in situ-8 pitons+2 rings for return abseil 2/25m/.Beware of loose rock in chimney,helmet is absolutely necessary!!Rope+iceaxe for glacier crossing.Couple of ice screws could be useful.Alpine grade diffulcuty PD-PD+ depends on the state of glacier/steep ice above shoulder and chimney-snow there makes things more difulcut.Allow 3h from the hut.For those who want to continue directly to La Pleureur summit and do not wish to climb La Sale,is possible to traverse La Sale on the east side following scree ledges and reach snow col/3554m/ and then follow Pleureur north ridge.It is also possible to climb chimney/normal route/ and then descent south ridge via chimney/II/,but without previous knowledge it is difficult to locate chimney!!!!
No red tape
Very nice and cheap campsite in Bonatchiesse/lac de mauvoisin/ but it is very laborious to reach Col du Vasevay/allow 5h/.From campsite follow path to Ecurie de Vasevay chalet,than pathless climb over grass and scree to Col de Vasevay/see small photo/. The better acces is from Lac des Dix,from La Barma chalet follow the trace of path to Rochers de Bouc,climb the ridge/scenic with scrambling sections,equipment in situ metal work/and reach Pantalons Blancs bivouac hut/5-6h//green line/
Maps and Guides
Maps-Arolla 283/1:50000/carte nationale de la Suisse,Chanrion 1346/1:25000/,Rosablanche 1326/1:25000/c.t.d.l.Suisse. Guides-Valais Alps West selected climbs 1998/Alpine club guide books/in english.Walliser Alpen,Michael Waeber/Bergverlag R.Rother 1999/in german.
"Why do climbers rope themselves together? To Prevent the sensible ones from going home!"