Lane Peak Climber's Log
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|Matt Lemke||South side |
Date Climbed: Apr 27, 2013
|Want to go back for the north face couloirs!|
|Posted May 6, 2013 9:19 pm|
|bellinghamclimber||Nice day on the zipper |
Date Climbed: Apr 14, 2012
|Headed up the zipper under great springtime conditions! Ice tools were helpful, as well as some pickets for the summit ridge.|
|Posted Apr 15, 2012 3:52 pm|
|ExcitableBoy||North Face (some couloir) in winter|
|Short approach, easy climb.|
|Posted Dec 27, 2010 11:06 am|
Date Climbed: Nov 22, 2010
|Climbed The Fly in variable snow conditions. Most of the coulier was in pretty good shape, but there were some areas of wallowing due to deep powder. The large boulder about half way up is still exposed, but passable if you bring ice tools. The summit block was covered in loosely consolidated snice, so we decided the coulier was good enough. |
All around a fantastic climb!
|Posted Dec 25, 2010 1:17 am|
Date Climbed: Mar 19, 1999
|First time was up the col east of the mountain but went back to do the Zipper a year later.|
|Posted Oct 7, 2009 11:31 am|
|vermeer||Semi Tatoosh Traverse |
Date Climbed: Jul 10, 2009
|Most challenging of the peaks we did. Really a fun climb with good positive holds but some decent exposure. Some people might want to rap down it.|
|Posted Jul 25, 2009 10:25 pm|
|amochka||Four of Five |
Date Climbed: Sep 6, 2008
|My favorite of our traverse day. Great climb up, awesome little knife edge summit, awesome views, fun rappel down. Thanks Kevin for a fun safe trip! Next stop: Wahpenayo|
|Posted Sep 7, 2008 9:00 pm|
|thundercloud||Zipper Dee Doo Da |
Date Climbed: May 17, 2008
|Climb w/ BJ; route and conditions permitted us a pretty easy climb. Zipper Route likely to be gone for year soon, as one section up high will break up further with warm temps and become difficult to negotiate. Moats on top were the definate crux on this day. Fun times!|
|Posted May 20, 2008 11:18 am|
|Brian Jenkins||Zip that Fly |
Date Climbed: Nov 23, 2007
|11-23-07 - Too Early - Itching to get on some snow, Ian and I drove up to MRNP in the morning after hearing about how the Cascades had gotten like 2 feet of snow the weekend before. Problem was, that was about all this one had gotten. We planned to climb one of the two main couloirs but from the start it looked more like rock than snow.|
Hiked down from Narada Falls and went cross country down into the drainage on the north side of the Tatoosh. Crossed some creeks and then bushwhacked up some tough vine maple, devils club and blackberry brambles. Got to the base of the rock and traversed west. Looked up The Zipper to see mostly ice and rock and didn't want anything to do with that one.
Donned crampons and made our way into The Fly which looked more promising but it was thin crust (or no crust at all) over sugar snow about a foot (at most) deep. We got up about halfway the couloir before a large boulder blocked our way.
Ian tried heading right but it was just exposed unprotectable rock. There was an icy chimney under the rock and then up but the ice was thin and did not sound right. Had to give up and downclimb 600 feet (not fun) with the thought of coming back much later in the season when this one fills in. Got back down to the creeks as darkness fell. Full moon lit our way back to the trail.
5/17/08 - Almost Too Late - Headed up with Ron in the early am. Started from Narada about 7:30. Lots more snow than November, we were able to pretty much make a beeline to the base of the route although we had to think light thoughts while crossing the stream (which was raging under the snow and breaking through in a few spots). Only about an hour to the base of The Zipper which we decided to do since we could see on the hike in that it was in.
A couple of rocks the size of frisbees whipped past us as we prepared to climb so I ended up doing most of the route with my head up watching for them. We took turns kicking steps. Must have been due to the NW-facing aspect of this protected gully but the snow was fairly decent (we had been worried about slush due to the near 90-degree temps in the area). About halfway up we climbed through most of the rockfall area and then cruised to the top of the route.
Once up, we were on the south-facing slopes of the summit pinnacle which were really slushy. We headed up what looked to be the obvious gully but came to an impassable moat shortly into it. We climbed up and right onto the rocks where we took off crampons and found a way to scramble to the summit ridge. From there, it was a short snowy edge to the summit.
We scrambled down west on the summit ridge to a tree where we rapped down over a couple deep moats/cracks in the snow we would not have wanted to downclimb. Then it was lots of slushy snow on the hike out from the saddle between Lane and Denman. Warm day but fun. Ended up having burgers at the place just outside the park entrance.
|Posted Nov 25, 2007 2:51 am|
|Snidely Whiplash||Exposed scramble |
Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2007
|Pretty exposed scramble. Folks concerned with exposure may want to bring along a handline.|
|Posted Sep 27, 2007 12:12 pm|
|osatrik||OSAT Tatoosh Traverse |
Date Climbed: Jun 8, 1996
|Six OSATers did the Traverse in the late spring from The Castle to Eagle, summiting them all. We camped just south of Lane Peak, which is the most enjoyable of the scrambles.|
|Posted Aug 26, 2006 4:14 pm|
|darinchadwick||Like to good old days. |
Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2006
|Climbed the South Face. It was as I imagine Pinnacle peak was like a hundred years ago. Not that difficult but plenty loose and interesting in summer conditions. Reminds me of idiotic stuff I used to do in Canada in Southern Oregon before I got into technical climbing. Nothing like loose 4th class to humble climbers of all skills and abilities.|
|Posted Aug 3, 2006 2:59 am|
|esugi||Tough climb up the Zipper |
Date Climbed: Mar 5, 2006
|Deep snow made for tough climbing but fun route. Highly recommended for anyone wanting a short approach, one day outing. Good as winter or spring climbing.|
We roped up but was not really necessary with the conditions we had. If the couloir is ice, roping up and placing pro would be recommended. The summit scramble was quite steep on deep snow. Not sure what this would look like late spring or low snow years.
|Posted Mar 24, 2006 2:45 am|
|jasonconnell||Route Climbed: The Fly Date Climbed: December 10th 2005|
|Deep powder made this a chore but the weather was outstanding. Reached the top 5 minutes before the sun set. Check out the Trip Report.|
|Posted Dec 13, 2005 7:07 pm|
|dicey||Route Climbed: standard Date Climbed: August 13, 2005|
|part of range traverse|
|Posted Sep 4, 2005 2:30 pm|
|cluck||Route Climbed: The Zipper Date Climbed: April 04, 2004|
|Did this as a cushy overnight climb. We camped under clear skies after a short 45 minute approach. Got started up the route at sunrise on day 2. Snow had an infuriatingly inconsistent crust over 8 inches of mush making for difficult work getting to the base of the couloir. Reached the base of the couloir in just over an hour. |
Once in the couloir, the snow was much more consistent and made for good mix of step-kicking and front-pointing. Didn't really need a second tool, but I was happy to use the one I'd brought. Topped out the couloir in another hour to bright sun and extremely warm temps. The southeast face was a mess of debris from the previous day's avalanches and the snow was about 24 inches of slush. We decided to skip the wallowfest to the summit and descend before conditions got any worse.
Descended to the east saddle (between Lane & Denman) and then down to the basin. Arrived in camp about 3.5 hours after we started.
Very sweet climb!
|Posted Apr 19, 2004 2:32 pm|