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Dan WinterTatoosh Traverse  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 14, 2013

Dan Winter

Summit number four in our traverse from Pinnacle to Lane. This one was the funnest scramble!
Posted Sep 30, 2013 6:02 pm

samhalaiFun quick climb, awesome summit  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Apr 28, 2013
What a fun little peak!
Posted Jul 16, 2013 3:43 pm

Matt LemkeSouth side  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Apr 27, 2013

Matt Lemke

Want to go back for the north face couloirs!
Posted May 6, 2013 9:19 pm

olymountainmanZippered  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Feb 3, 2013

olymountainman

Good climb up the zipper today. Didn't see the need for roping up or placing any pro in the zipper itself, although we had it. We didn't summit via the standard chute on the south side. Instead we climbed the very steep chute you see directly to west when come out of the zipper, it was sketchy good, no pro placed here either :) All of this was during quite the whiteout.
Posted Feb 4, 2013 12:55 am

bellinghamclimberNice day on the zipper  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Apr 14, 2012

bellinghamclimber

Headed up the zipper under great springtime conditions! Ice tools were helpful, as well as some pickets for the summit ridge.
Posted Apr 15, 2012 3:52 pm

bellinghamclimberRippin' up the Zipper  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Apr 14, 2012

bellinghamclimber

Climbed the zipper route under gorgeous conditions! It helped to have a couple of ice tools, and the snow in the couloir was nice and firm.
Posted Apr 15, 2012 3:41 pm

ExcitableBoyNorth Face (some couloir) in winter  Sucess!

ExcitableBoy

Short approach, easy climb.
Posted Dec 27, 2010 11:06 am

MountainjeffThe Fly
Date Climbed: Nov 22, 2010

Mountainjeff

Climbed The Fly in variable snow conditions. Most of the coulier was in pretty good shape, but there were some areas of wallowing due to deep powder. The large boulder about half way up is still exposed, but passable if you bring ice tools. The summit block was covered in loosely consolidated snice, so we decided the coulier was good enough.

All around a fantastic climb!
Posted Dec 25, 2010 1:17 am

ericwillhiteZipper  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Mar 19, 1999

ericwillhite

First time was up the col east of the mountain but went back to do the Zipper a year later.
Posted Oct 7, 2009 11:31 am

vermeerSemi Tatoosh Traverse  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 10, 2009

vermeer

Most challenging of the peaks we did. Really a fun climb with good positive holds but some decent exposure. Some people might want to rap down it.
Posted Jul 25, 2009 10:25 pm

amochkaFour of Five  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 6, 2008

amochka

My favorite of our traverse day. Great climb up, awesome little knife edge summit, awesome views, fun rappel down. Thanks Kevin for a fun safe trip! Next stop: Wahpenayo
Posted Sep 7, 2008 9:00 pm

thundercloudZipper Dee Doo Da  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 17, 2008

thundercloud

Climb w/ BJ; route and conditions permitted us a pretty easy climb. Zipper Route likely to be gone for year soon, as one section up high will break up further with warm temps and become difficult to negotiate. Moats on top were the definate crux on this day. Fun times!
Posted May 20, 2008 11:18 am

Brian JenkinsZip that Fly  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Nov 23, 2007

Brian Jenkins

11-23-07 - Too Early - Itching to get on some snow, Ian and I drove up to MRNP in the morning after hearing about how the Cascades had gotten like 2 feet of snow the weekend before. Problem was, that was about all this one had gotten. We planned to climb one of the two main couloirs but from the start it looked more like rock than snow.

Hiked down from Narada Falls and went cross country down into the drainage on the north side of the Tatoosh. Crossed some creeks and then bushwhacked up some tough vine maple, devils club and blackberry brambles. Got to the base of the rock and traversed west. Looked up The Zipper to see mostly ice and rock and didn't want anything to do with that one.

Donned crampons and made our way into The Fly which looked more promising but it was thin crust (or no crust at all) over sugar snow about a foot (at most) deep. We got up about halfway the couloir before a large boulder blocked our way.

Ian tried heading right but it was just exposed unprotectable rock. There was an icy chimney under the rock and then up but the ice was thin and did not sound right. Had to give up and downclimb 600 feet (not fun) with the thought of coming back much later in the season when this one fills in. Got back down to the creeks as darkness fell. Full moon lit our way back to the trail.

5/17/08 - Almost Too Late - Headed up with Ron in the early am. Started from Narada about 7:30. Lots more snow than November, we were able to pretty much make a beeline to the base of the route although we had to think light thoughts while crossing the stream (which was raging under the snow and breaking through in a few spots). Only about an hour to the base of The Zipper which we decided to do since we could see on the hike in that it was in.

A couple of rocks the size of frisbees whipped past us as we prepared to climb so I ended up doing most of the route with my head up watching for them. We took turns kicking steps. Must have been due to the NW-facing aspect of this protected gully but the snow was fairly decent (we had been worried about slush due to the near 90-degree temps in the area). About halfway up we climbed through most of the rockfall area and then cruised to the top of the route.

Once up, we were on the south-facing slopes of the summit pinnacle which were really slushy. We headed up what looked to be the obvious gully but came to an impassable moat shortly into it. We climbed up and right onto the rocks where we took off crampons and found a way to scramble to the summit ridge. From there, it was a short snowy edge to the summit.

We scrambled down west on the summit ridge to a tree where we rapped down over a couple deep moats/cracks in the snow we would not have wanted to downclimb. Then it was lots of slushy snow on the hike out from the saddle between Lane and Denman. Warm day but fun. Ended up having burgers at the place just outside the park entrance.
Posted Nov 25, 2007 2:51 am

Snidely WhiplashExposed scramble  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2007

Snidely Whiplash

Pretty exposed scramble. Folks concerned with exposure may want to bring along a handline.
Posted Sep 27, 2007 12:12 pm

osatrikOSAT Tatoosh Traverse  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 8, 1996

osatrik

Six OSATers did the Traverse in the late spring from The Castle to Eagle, summiting them all. We camped just south of Lane Peak, which is the most enjoyable of the scrambles.
Posted Aug 26, 2006 4:14 pm

osatrikOSAT Tatoosh Traverse  Sucess!

osatrik

Around 1996, six OSATers did the Traverse in the late spring from The Castle to Eagle, summiting them all. We camped just south of Lane Peak, which is the most enjoyable of the scrambles.
Posted Aug 26, 2006 4:13 pm

darinchadwickLike to good old days.  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2006

darinchadwick

Climbed the South Face. It was as I imagine Pinnacle peak was like a hundred years ago. Not that difficult but plenty loose and interesting in summer conditions. Reminds me of idiotic stuff I used to do in Canada in Southern Oregon before I got into technical climbing. Nothing like loose 4th class to humble climbers of all skills and abilities.
Posted Aug 3, 2006 2:59 am

esugiTough climb up the Zipper  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Mar 5, 2006

esugi

Deep snow made for tough climbing but fun route. Highly recommended for anyone wanting a short approach, one day outing. Good as winter or spring climbing.

We roped up but was not really necessary with the conditions we had. If the couloir is ice, roping up and placing pro would be recommended. The summit scramble was quite steep on deep snow. Not sure what this would look like late spring or low snow years.
Posted Mar 24, 2006 2:45 am

esugiWallowing in the snow  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Mar 5, 2006

esugi

Climbed the Zipper under deep powder conditions. At several times, I could not move forward because every time I tried to move up, snow just crumbled underneath me, creating a waist high wall. We must have spent 3 hours in the couloir, just struggling to make it up. The total climb took us 7 hours RT.
Posted Mar 17, 2006 8:33 pm

jasonconnellRoute Climbed: The Fly Date Climbed: December 10th 2005  Sucess!

jasonconnell

Deep powder made this a chore but the weather was outstanding. Reached the top 5 minutes before the sun set. Check out the Trip Report.



Pictures here



Posted Dec 13, 2005 7:07 pm

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