Grade: 5.11a / 6b+
Distance: 25 meters or 81 Feet.
Dairy Farm Quarry is located at the very Northern part of the Bukit Timah nature preserve. You can take the same public transportation but continue until you reach the the Dairy Farms Estate area. There is a bus stop about 100 meters before the intersection and the drivers were always willing to let us know where to depart the bus. Use the pedestrian overpass and head to the intersection of Upper Bukit Timah Expressway and Dairy Farm Road. Turn right and head up the road about 200 meters. There are two small asphalt roads, take the one that runs perpendicular to the Dairy Farm Road. The asphalt road eventually turns into a dirt road and narrows a bit. The quarry is between a 1,000 and 1500 meters off the main road. You are surrounded by thick forest and vegatation along the path and it is not wise to venture off the path (big snakes) as one of our climbers found out. As you enter the quarry it is split into two separate formations. The formation on the left hand side has is line with thick vegatation and trees. There is the large break in the trees and the section of rock protruding through is the Direct section. Follow the trail past the Direct section and walk about a quarter mile. There should be a large opening in the trees and vegatation and the section located within is the ABCD section. The route Lao Shu La Gui starts between Prayer Hand and the dihedral.
The route Lao Shu La Gui is a Sport route and its length is 25 meters or 81 feet. It is rated as a 5.11a or 6b+ route, depending on the grading system you prefer. This sport route has 8 bolted points. The starting position of this route is about five feet to the left of the dihedral (Zero Gully) and you started by going up and over the right corner of a protuding portion of the wall. This route is directly in line with the bolts and you have a small concaved area to climb through. About sixty feet into the route there is a tricky overhang to negotiate. There is a fixed anchor at the top. All the bolts and anchor has been recently replaced. This route is well protected by large trees that provide excellent shade. The rock is smooth granite and extremely slippery when wet!
1. 60 Meter Rope.
2. Eight four inch quick draws are sufficent.
3. Couple of locking biners for anchor.
4. Helmet (rocks have been known to experience earth's gravitational pull in this area)
There are no restroom facilities or running water of any type in or near this quarry. There is a trash recepticle by the bus stop. Please take all your trash with you when you leave. Climb On!